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The Barbel Society Handling Code

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A barbel fit and ready for release to once again swim wild and swim free A barbel fit and ready for release to once again swim wild and swim free

Among the many achievements the Barbel Society can lay claim to in its first dozen years – and one that unites both members and dissenters – is its Handling Code. Jon Berry explains more...


Adopted by angling clubs, individual anglers, websites and others, the Code has done as much to protect barbel welfare as any other single act in the history of the sport. And yet, there are still occasions when anglers return fish prematurely, pose in potentially dangerous situations for the all important trophy shot, or – in the heat of the moment of capture – forget to allow the fish to recover in the net before removal from the water.

Worse still is the scenario where a barbel is returned before being fully rested, or is  dropped when being held too high off the ground. The Society can feel proud that its efforts are leading to positive change, and yet the message needs reinforcing every time a newcomer joins the sport.

One such newcomer is Mike Lapin, who has the misfortune to be a student in my year group at the large Swindon school where I teach. Mike is already, at fifteen, a talented and successful carp angler, with many ‘twenties’ and even bigger specimens to his name. During our many fishy conversations during lessons (don’t tell Ofsted), Mike had repeatedly expressed an interest in barbel fishing, and so yesterday I took him to a quiet, prolific stretch of the Bristol Avon. It seemed an ideal opportunity to take a few snaps to illustrate our Code, providing of course that the young man could put a barbel on the bank.

0908barbelcode_744488886.jpgI needn’t have worried – conditions were poor, but within a couple of hours Mike was staring admiringly at his first barbel, and putting in to practise all the fish welfare steps that are already second nature to many carpers, and which are becoming equally common on the riverbanks. Following his own instincts, and the sound advice offered in the Code, Mike’s first barbel swam away strongly after a brief rest in the deep, soft mesh of the landing net – and a barbel angler was born.

A little later, while Mike sat back and reflected on the capture, and I enjoyed a celebratory cigar, the tip flew round once again – this time it was a chub, a fat winter fish of about 4lbs. The captor, to my delight, took as much care with it as he had with his barbel. There, for me, lies one important and overlooked point about our Code; not only is it a fine way to treat barbel, it is also a pretty damn good way to treat any fish.

The popularity of the barbel has exploded over the last few years and continues to grow into what is now the most sought after river fish. It is the duty of all barbel anglers to protect this exciting and powerful species and ensure that it is returned, after capture, in the same or even better condition as that when it was hooked.

Today’s four pound fish may well be tomorrow’s “double” or even record. We recommend to you the following code when handling barbel:

0908barbelrest_866506435.jpgAlways use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress. A minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line should be used, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions. Think about where you will be landing your fish before fishing, so that a played out fish can be landed safely and left to recover in the net for a few minutes before being unhooked.

A more powerful rod will require stronger line to maintain balance; a rough guide is to multiply test curve by six to calculate matching line strength. Line does not last forever, so check regularly and replace it if in doubt. Ultra thin braids can cause damage to fish, so should be used with care.

When fishing for barbel, use a large, deep, fine knotless meshed landing net and always allow the barbel a few minutes to recover in sufficient depth before removing the fish from the water. Transfer the fish in the net from the water and place the fish on a wet unhooking mat whilst you remove the hook. After the hook has been removed return the fish back to the water and allow it a few more minutes of recovery time before release.

Never attempt to beach a fish, or allow it to rest on stones, gravel or hard ground. Use wet hands to handle fish.

0908barbelunhook_757922640.jpgBarbless hooks or those with barbs squeezed flat are easier to remove than barbed ones. Remove the hook with forceps. If the hook is difficult to remove then cut the line and thread out the hook, point first, if necessary. Check the mouth for any other hooks and remove any that are present.

Mouth sores and any wounds found on the body may be treated with solutions such as Kryston Klin-ik, available from good tackle shops or antiseptic creams such as adcortyl-inorabase, which is available from chemists. Dry wounds first before applying treatments.

Release the barbel as soon as it has fully recovered, retaining it in the meshes of the landing net until it is upright, and breathing and swimming strongly. Take extra care in hot weather when water temperatures are higher and the dissolved oxygen content is lower. In extreme warm and low water conditions, consider ceasing fishing for barbel altogether until conditions improve.

If weighing and photography are desired, leave the fish in the water in the landing net meshes with plenty of room to breathe, while you prepare your equipment. Decide where the weighing and photography should take place, preferably close by and on a flat area away from bright sunlight. Wet the weigh sling, which should be large enough to contain the fish easily, and zero the scales whilst weighing the wet sling.

Prepare your camera equipment and then transfer the fish to your chosen area. Gently lower the barbel onto your wet unhooking mat, ensuring all fins are folded backwards to prevent damage. Carefully remove the fish from the net into the wet weigh sling. The fish should be held close to the ground for photography; never stand with a fish.

Return the fish to the net and carry it in the net to the water. Position it facing upriver and then allow a long period of recovery. The fish should be allowed to breathe freely, with a good flow of water around the mouth and gills. Encourage the fish to position itself upright and maintain balance. The fish must not be released until you are certain that it has sufficient strength to swim strongly in the current.

Exceptional fish may need to be retained in barbel tubes or tunnels for witnessing but this should be for the shortest possible time period and only place one fish in each tunnel or tube. Carp sacks and keepnets are not advised for the retention of barbel.

The Barbel Society recognises that barbel are retained in keepnets during matches. However, we appeal to match anglers to use the largest barbel friendly nets they can and to position them where the fish can obtain maximum through flow of water and minimum overcrowding. Staking the closed end of the keepnet up-river will greatly help in this matter. We also ask that a weigh and release policy is considered where large fish in particular can be weighed individually and released soon after capture. We would also ask that soft slings are considered and used for weighing and that all barbel are nursed so as they are fully recovered before release.

The use of plastic tubing or other mechanical devices to try and release what may be perceived to be trapped air in barbel is not recommended. Fish are invariably able to rid themselves of air naturally and poking around with tubes or massaging fish could cause internal damage.

General recommendations:
• After your own safety, always consider the welfare of the fish above all else.
• Keep them out of water for the minimum time.
• Always use adequate, but balanced, tackle.
• Only pursue barbel in rivers, we are opposed to their stocking in stillwaters.
• All anglers are advised to join the ACA (now through Angling Trust - Ed.)
• Take all your litter home and enjoy your barbel fishing in wild, clean river surroundings!

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FishingMagic note: Our grateful thanks to The Barbel Society for the kind permission to reproduce this feature in the interests of general fish welfare.







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Comments (27 posted):

Stealph Viper on 26/08/2009 08:29:33
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A well written, and easy to follow guide to fish care and fish safety.
Jeff Woodhouse on 26/08/2009 11:16:45
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Is that OK, Fred?
Fred Bonney on 26/08/2009 11:46:26
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That's good Jeff, thanks for spreading the word. The pictures came out well, you'll have to let me know the technique. The Barbel Society will be celebrating 15 years next year, and will have a special annual Show in May, details to follow.
Paul C on 26/08/2009 12:34:50
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Why has the society never added to or recognised within it's handling code that barbel might be targeted and caught on the float? Whenever I read it, whilst it all sounds sensible advice, it's directed only at fishing for barbel with ledger/feeder set ups, strong test curve rods where it makes sense to have an un-hooking mat and huge landing net with you. There nothing to cater for trotting a stick with a pin or waggler fishing whilst waded out, where the use of a huge net, big test curve rod and unhooking mat are not practical. I realise the majority of people targetting barbel do so using a more bait and wait approach, but there are some around that like to do it a bit more crabtree style. At least some acknowledgement of it or better still some advice when using more sensitive set ups would be good. I've had some decent barbel on the float and as long as the float rod has the backbone for the job, you play the fish sesnibly and use line capable of withstanding the pressure, conditions and type of swim, landing fish that are still full of energy is the norm. This is especially so when you are waded into 2 to 3 feet of water and you are playing them close in, yet mid river as you can often net them early. Most fish never leave the water and can be un-hooked and released with minimal contact. Smaller fish can be safely cradled without the need for a landing net if you are used to steering fish within arms reach. Perhaps that's why the BS never seems like it's a society for me as it simply doesn't reconise any other style of barbel fishing.
Fred Bonney on 26/08/2009 12:43:41
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Isn't it covered by this very first piece of advice Paul? 1. Always use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress. A minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line should be used, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions. Knowhere in the advice does it refer to fishing with a ledger of any description
Cakey on 26/08/2009 13:01:06
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they were all naughty on the fishomania final then ?
Paul C on 26/08/2009 13:07:17
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Those targeting them or those fishing for anything that swims, knowing that it will include barbel at some stage. To a degree, but you wouldn't use that test curve of rod and rarely 8lb line as it wouldn't trip freely off a open faced reel. You might be able to get away with 8lb with pin in a fast flowing swim. The advice just goes into good detail where the use of a ledgered type set up is concerned, but doesn't give the same level of detail for float fishing. It doesn't acknowledge that a big speci net might not be feesible for example. If you used one that size whilst waded out, not only would you be unable to hold the thing in the current, but it would drag you and everything else off to the estuary whilst it was parked up ready for when it's required. If you read it word for word, it assumes you will ALWAYS lift the fish from the water. It assumes the un-hooking process will ALWAYS take place on a matt. Nowhere does it say, if possible, don't even remove the fish from the water. Un-hook it in the net, rest it and release.... Like I say, it's firmly written with ledgering from the bank in mind and doesn't recognise that there's more than one way of fishing for them.
Fred Bonney on 26/08/2009 14:01:30
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Paul, we generalise and hope that gets the message over to all anglers, without steering them in specific directions . We certainly wouldn't encourage anglers to wade, it does therefore aim at bank anglers. You will note we don't give details of fishing from a boat either. After all, it is only general advice about barbel handling, and not meant to cover all the angles of how we go about catching them. By the way I use a big net, that is also used by wading salmon anglers, it collapses and straps goes over my back until needed.
Paul C on 26/08/2009 15:09:29
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We certainly wouldn't encourage anglers to wade, it does therefore aim at bank anglers. The dreaded Health and Safety! I am sure more than half of my fishing has been done from within the water as oppose to on the bank. It depends on the river or lake, I know, but there's something a bit special about being in there. Boat fishing I can understand, but wading seems a step too far if you pardon the pun. There are pegs on the Ribble where you have to wade to land a fish otherwise you would be beaching the fish, because the nearside is shallow gravel for 20+ yards out and hundreds of yards either side of you. Summer on the ribble can result in thick weed that extends out 25 yards. On some barbel rivers, wading is a must at times even when bank fishing. If wading is ill advised, it's a good job barbel don't much like shallow fast gravel areas then I guess!! :) I know the code won't get changed because the BS aren't interested in anything beyond a very set way of barbel fishing. Those that fish that way are probably not the ones in greatest need of hearing the message. Which folding net do you have Fred, as I have been interested in having one but never seen one that looks suitable. ---------- Post added at 15:09 ---------- Previous post was at 14:49 ---------- Paul, we generalise and hope that gets the message over to all anglers, without steering them in specific directions . BTW I don't see how you come to that conclusion Fred. There’s nothing general about it. It’s specific to one style of fishing and goes into great detail about that one style of fishing. If the code is not steering people into bankside barbel fishing with big test curve rods, strong line, speci net, unhooking mat, then I don’t what is? It’s good advice if that’s how you fish, but it is not giving general advice to all anglers that may encounter and handle barbel. But fair enough, it’s upto the BS if they don’t want to acknowledge or advocate any other way of fishing.
Fred Bonney on 26/08/2009 15:40:53
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Sorry Paul, but by reading one set of advice you certainly have a very blinkered view of the Barbel Society. Many of our members, some of them young, still float fish with a centrepin, and some wade. Some experienced barbel anglers would probably would object to being pointed to a piece of advice on how to handle barbel as well, but they haven't. It is accepted for what it is, general advice to assit those that perhaps may not be used to handling barbel. My net is Whitlock, looks like this is the same one, but mine has a telescopic handle. I've had it for 8years http://www.garryevans.co.uk/whitlock-sea-troutsalmon-foldover-net-530-p.asp ---------- Post added at 16:40 ---------- Previous post was at 16:27 ---------- Dreaded Health & Safety does come into it I suppose, but there are too many articles written about ,do it this way and do it that way, which inexperienced anglers take notice of without knowing, that perhaps if you do it that way you should also be aware of the problems that may be experienced as a result. I think:confused:
Paul C on 26/08/2009 16:09:46
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I just think it could be tweaked and opened up a bit more, that's all. Everytime I've mentioned it, people seem to be very protective about it and I can't understand why a little adjustment here and there is such a no no? Any code needs a re-write or an update from time to time. Here's what I was thinking in any event and I've stayed away from wading for you! Anyway, I'll leave it at that: Always use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress. When ledger fishing, we recommend a minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions. With any other method such as float fishing, ensure your tackle is strong enough to comfortably handle a barbel and it will allow you to land it as quickly as possible. Think about where you will be landing your fish before fishing, so that a played out fish can be landed safely and left to recover in the net for a few minutes before being unhooked. A more powerful rod will require stronger line to maintain balance; a rough guide is to multiply test curve by six to calculate matching line strength. Line does not last forever, so check regularly and replace it if in doubt. Ultra thin braids can cause damage to fish, so should be used with care. When fishing for barbel, use a large, deep, fine knotless meshed landing net and always allow the barbel a few minutes to recover in sufficient depth before unhooking. If it is necessary to remove the fish from the water, transfer the fish in the net and place the fish on a wet unhooking mat whilst you remove the hook. If you do remove the fish from the water, when you return it allow it a few more minutes of recovery time before release......... etc.
Stealph Viper on 26/08/2009 17:29:05
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That sounds ok to me as well, but then again, so did the original one.
Fred Bonney on 26/08/2009 17:30:09
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I don't think there is anything wrong with your train of thought Paul, in fact we have been discussing to need to look and see, if there is an update required, after all it's three years old now. So, I will certainly take your views on board when discussing the Code with my collegues. It's just that the point comes, and this is the fear, that you can try to cover so many angles, that the aim of the Code becomes lost in the detail. Thanks for your comments,I use a tag line of Never say Never elsewhere, my mind or should I say our minds, are always open to well thought out suggestions.
preston96 on 26/08/2009 18:16:59
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Paul C........why not advise a rod type and min line strength for float fishing?.....if thats what you like doing :wh
Paul C on 26/08/2009 19:15:02
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Paul C........why not advise a rod type and min line strength for float fishing?.....if thats what you like doing :wh Not sure it's as easy. Float rods aren't generally rated TC wise like speci type rods tend to be. Line strength will vary depending on the likely size of fish, type of reel, terrain etc and it's more about balancing the diameter of the line with the strength to find something that performs well, but is more than adequate for the job. Most important thing about the line for me is that I change it after every float session if I've played any fish on the clutch. I tend to use a 15ft float rod that's sensitive enough for roach and dace, but the middle section will stand up to anything I'm likely to come across. I have no idea how it's rated, but I know it will do the job.
preston96 on 26/08/2009 19:18:46
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Not sure it's as easy. Float rods aren't generally rated TC wise like speci type rods tend to be. Line strength will vary depending on the likely size of fish, type of reel, terrain etc and it's more about balancing the diameter of the line with the strength to find something that performs well, but is more than adequate for the job. Most important thing about the line for me is that I change it after every float session if I've played any fish on the clutch. I tend to use a 15ft float rod that's sensitive enough for roach and dace, but the middle section will stand up to anything I'm likely to come across. I have no idea how it's rated, but I know it will do the job. Perhaps thats why the BS didn't include it?.......it could be very controversial.....nuff said;)
Paul C on 26/08/2009 19:29:26
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I don't see why. Just because something can't be rated or quantified, offer no advice at all? There are no specifications on net size or unhooking mat size? It's not the be all and end all and I'm not even sure if giving any min rod and line ratings is ideal.
preston96 on 26/08/2009 19:35:54
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I don't see why. Just because something can't be rated or quantified, offer no advice at all? There are no specifications on net size or unhooking mat size? It's not the be all and end all and I'm not even sure if giving any min rod and line ratings is ideal. My point was that i asked you for advice and you didn't really give me anything solid but you expect the BS to do so. OK, i'll put my views.....a 15ft rod is to long, the barbs will play you, why would you need it if you are wading to the trotting zone? 13ft max, prob a 12ft, with a powerful float rod action.......big floats that will take lead, we aint going roach fishing......i would probably go for avon type. Reel line for float work..........a good modern 5lb min, prob 6 or 7 in some situations. There we go............money where my mouth is, i'm ready to be ripped to bits :wh
Paul C on 26/08/2009 19:48:03
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My point was that i asked you for advice and you didn't really give me anything solid but you expect the BS to do so. OK, i'll put my views.....a 15ft rod is to long, the barbs will play you, why would you need it if you are wading to the trotting zone? 13ft max, prob a 12ft, with a powerful float rod action.......big floats that will take lead, we aint going roach fishing......i would probably go for avon type. Reel line for float work..........a good modern 5lb min, prob 6 or 7 in some situations. There we go............money where my mouth is, i'm ready to be ripped to bits :wh I don't expect them to be specific. Where have I said they should go into that level of detail? The only reference to rod strength or line is what is already in the code, so I left that in. I use a 15 ft rod because 90% of the time I fish the waggler and I like having the extra control. Personal preference.
preston96 on 26/08/2009 19:55:07
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I don't expect them to be specific. Where have I said they should go into that level of detail? The only reference to rod strength or line is what is already in the code, so I left that in. I use a 15 ft rod because 90% of the time I fish the waggler and I like having the extra control. Personal preference. My 15ft rod rarely sees the light of day, because i feel i have less control.....need a longer landing net handle, which can be difficult in a flow etc..........but like you say it's a personal thing. At least Fred, with his BS head on, listened. But the fact remains that the efficent capture of barbel usually merits a ledger tactic.........in my opinion, and i speak as some one who enjoys the float. Great debate to get going tho mate.
Paul C on 26/08/2009 20:07:16
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Great debate to get going tho mate. To true... Perhaps I wasn't clear, when I say I wade, I am doing so merely to get within catapult distance of the area which is often mid to far bank, on the waggler. There are also swims that are too deep to cast comfortably with a rod any shorter and the ribble stretches I fish are not teaming with stickfloat type swims. I'm not usually directly targeting barbel, more anything that will take caster, but you know some will put in an appearance. It's also surprising how often they will show in numbers when feeder anglers in the same area are doing nothing, especially on those bright, warm sunny days. :)
preston96 on 26/08/2009 20:25:00
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To true... Perhaps I wasn't clear, when I say I wade, I am doing so merely to get within catapult distance of the area which is often mid to far bank, on the waggler. There are also swims that are too deep to cast comfortably with a rod any shorter and the ribble stretches I fish are not teaming with stickfloat type swims. I'm not usually directly targeting barbel, more anything that will take caster, but you know some will put in an appearance. It's also surprising how often they will show in numbers when feeder anglers in the same area are doing nothing, especially on those bright, warm sunny days. :) In the early days of Middle Severn barbel, loads could be caught on lightish trotting gear, i often targeted them specifically, they would take the casters that floated off the top....it was that unreal when compaired to the reality of today.............but to be honest, a float rod is probably the last thing i reach for nowadays when i have barbs in mind. But that aint to say i shouldn't think about it more. ;)
Fred Bonney on 26/08/2009 20:55:34
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:wh.......... ;)
preston96 on 27/08/2009 06:45:05
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:wh.......... ;) :D..it's gonna rain, and i'm off work until Tues, Wye here i come!!..:p
Fred Bonney on 27/08/2009 07:17:10
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Good luck Paul, lovely river.
Muffin on 27/08/2009 11:12:06
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A quiet and prolific strecth of the Bristol Avon, WTF is that!!!! Nice article and I like the part stating that all fish should be treated in this way not just the precious Barbel.
Fred Bonney on 27/08/2009 17:39:45
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As they should be too. The stretch of the Bristol Avon is :eek: :eek: arghhhh


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