 Matt, Braid/ flouro combi rigs work very well. Have a look at this idea from the crazy world of Lee Swords.. The flouro sinks and hugs the bottom, and the tungsten putty at the hinge provides a little extra hooking potential. You can obviously exchange the feeder for a straight lead and add a backlead to pin more line down. When I've used similar set-ups in the past, it's been with a running lead, and this works just as well. If you haven't used fluoro much it's worth mentioning that a lot of traditional mono knots are not up to the job; I have yet to find a better knot than the palomar for fluoro.
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| Edited: 26/07/08 14:57 |
Matt ive been using MemoreX for a few seasons, its aimed at sea anglers but its the best barbel mono ive tried, very tough, good stretch,knots well and cheap, only problem is the shop i buy it from has closed and i cant get it myself at the moment.
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 Dickie Yes, it was Lee that gave me the idea. Either a long 3-4ft length of fluoro plus 3" of braid for low clear conditions or a shorter lenght of anout 1ft for coloured water/night. re Knots for fluoro - this seems to be a subject of contradiction. Some say Palomar (which is my preference for braid and mono), some say grinner - yet Dave Chilton of Kryston states that the half blood knot is best for fluoro.
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 I use the half blood, but tucked!
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 Why use fluoro with braid? It's not as invisible as it's cracked up to be, so you might as well just use your main line instead - less complicated. The best knots for fluoro depend on the make and the strength to diametre. I use airflo G3 and Its fine with a 3 turn grinner.
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 12lb big game clear , same as my mainline , i fish the ribble all the time and this stuff has never let me down yet i would personally stay clear of the pre stretched low diameters , reason being if you are fishing rocky/snaggy areas you want as much protection as possible just my thoughts
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 Currently using Ultima. Maxima was my line of choice but lost a couple of fish early season and changed. Tucked half-blood knot for me as well.
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Have been using Reflo Power Line in 0.21mm for a few years now on rivers like the Trent and now currently the Ribble - great clear water hooklength and tuff as old boots. I personally don't rate flourocarbons for barbel as they lose sight of their food ( and what its attatched to ) long before it enters the mouth because of their snout and so i don't believe they have any advantage in terms of their alledged invisibility. Also flouro's tend to be both thicker and stiffer than a standard mono of equivalent breaking strain so are actually at a disadvantage because the barbel can feel them easier. The only one i have tried and liked is Korda IQ extra soft in 10lb b.s. As for knots use the Mahseer not which does not constrict under pressure and therefore won't damage your line.
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Andy The reason for using fluro isn't just for invisibility. As you say it is stiffer. It is also heavier than water (approx 1.78) and therefore sinks and hugs the bottom. The hook can be presented on a short lenght of supple braid material.
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Sorry Matt but if its stiffer as we are all agreed it is then it isn't likely to hug the bottom unless it's exceptionally heavy which it isn't. Incidently i broke my P.B. Ribble barbel yesterday using 0.19mm Reflo Power line as a hooklink. Top Stuff!
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If your looking for a good reel/hooklink mono that's supple, tough and clear i've been using ESP Carp Crystal in 10 and 12lb as a main line this season and am very impressed - not too expensive either at £10 for 1000m - so you can afford the 3 or 4 spools you'll go through in a season on the Ribble!
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 Does anyone have any problems using hooks with in-turned eyes whilst using mono? I've heard that they can have a kind of guillotine effect whilst playing a decent fish or if you get snagged up due to the angle of the pull?
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| Edited: 10/08/08 13:18 |
The hooklink material would not make a difference as if you are playing a fish it would be held tight under the pressure - mono/braid makes no difference the angle's the same. Stiff mono's can lead to missed bites with an in-turned eye because they over exagerate the bent hook effect desired for turnover and cause the hook to bounce out instead of turning over and pricking the fish. If using a knotless knot use either a straight eye or for really stiff mono's and fluorocarbons use a pattern with an out-turned eye. Turnover will be much improved!
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I was thinking that a fluoro line may fracture under the strain due to the brittle nature of the line and the acute angle due to the knotless knot and the inturned eye.
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Could well do Trev - most flouro's are quite brittle as you say - interesting to note that a lot of the carp hook patterns designed for choddy and stiff rigs where flouro's are often used, have an out turned eye. I have a feeling that this is to prevent it bouncing out and imrove turn over though. Any hook designers out there?
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When you tie a knotless knot with flouro and an inturned eye then whip back up the knot twice for added security and this should stop the knot from flexing under pressure and greatly reduce the "guillotine" effect.
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