Never actually tested one of my rigs for strength as i've never had reason too apart from making sure my knots are bedded down correctly, i let the fish do the testing for me. If i started to lose fish to tackle failure i would bin the offending item straight away but as i've said i've been using this set-up for 2-3 seasons now with no issues what-so-ever.

The hooks that i use are Korum S3's which have a seamless eye (which no doubt you all know!) so this may be the difference?

My rods aren't soft at all, in fact they are the complete opposite being quite poker like, they are Wychwood Extremis 1 3/4 tc and i tend to use a 12lb main line.

What is someones rubbish is someone elses fortune (or something like that)

Interesting thoughts!  And just to assure my old mate Mark, I do fish for chub and barbel but usually with different rigs in different swims at different times!  Typically I'll try and prime a few areas for barbel and while I'm waiting may be freelining, ledgering or trotting for chub, returning to the swims hopefully boiling with feeding barbel for the evening!

Anyway, I've just conducted some tests with 4lb (.18mm) Vanish.  Blood knot and it parted at about 1.75lbs, palomar: about 2lbs, grinner: about 2.5lbs!  It's back in the bin.

I usually "field test" my hooklength material on my pet carp at Gold Valley but did not do so for Vanish, lesson learnt.

I have been very happy with my results when using:

Krystonite (Fluoro Coated), Preston Innovations Reflo Power Line (resin impregnated mono), Wychwood Fluoro, Scierra Inviz Fluoro and good old Terry Eustace Pro Gold.

Most used - Krystonite and Pro Gold, very confident with both in a variety of rigs/methods.

Confidence is the key word there Neil. Use what you're happy with and what works for you. No doubt if we all compared our tackle (OO-ER!) we would all have something in there that others would frown at or dismiss straight away.

Vanish is the only fluoro i've ever tried and i've got no reason to change it.

10lb hooklength went at 8lb on a set of Mk4 Avons (not exactly scientific but it's the best i can do!) which i don't think is bad considering all lines break at a lower breaking strain once knotted.

A lot of lines are over rated with regards to stated strength, Maxima being a prime example, so if 10lb Vanish breaks at 10lb unknotted 10lb breaking at 8lb knotted (80%) ain't bad in my books considering a fish isn't meant to be able to exert more than 2lb of pressure itself.

Now i'm not suggesting you only need to use 2lb line or anything i'm just trying to make a point.

I wrote a review on the line some time ago.

I bought it as main line for fishing low, clear winter rivers.

8lb BS parting at random places (none at knots), even on the retrieve with no snags.

Judging by the majority of opinions it was a very big bad batch.

Try Shakespeare Sightfree fly leader if you're after a flourocarbon hooklength. Use Palomar and knotless knots with it for the best strength.

Bit expensive to use as a mainline though  .

Sorry.

Would the knotless knot be any good in that instance?

I like to go in thru the back of the eye, then wind down the shank of the hook 7 turns, then back up the shank another 2 turns (turning in the same direction but now going up the shank and maintaining pressure at all times) and then back thru the eye from the back of the hook again and pull tight.

Not sure if thats how others do it but its not let me down yet, that said my best fish on that knotless knot so far is only a 6lb Carp on a 3lb hooklink... but it held firm.