Depth exploration help

denzinho

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Hi guys,


I Need some advise on a fast method of finding depths. I am planning on targeting BIG Perch at my local pond next week and my club don't seem interested in giving me info of where those deep holes are etc (No membership for them next season).

I'm sure I could come up with some technique for doing this but I wanted to ask the experts :).

Thanks for any info


P.S

Cheap as possible if possible :D
 
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law

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The cheapest way is to get in.
Make sure you have someone else there, and use a landing net pole to prod around in front of you.
I've spent hours with a marker before and was pretty confident that I knew the bed layout. But after getting in the unsnag a fish one day, I found all sorts of features that I didn't find with the marker.
 

denzinho

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The cheapest way is to get in.
Make sure you have someone else there, and use a landing net pole to prod around in front of you.
I've spent hours with a marker before and was pretty confident that I knew the bed layout. But after getting in the unsnag a fish one day, I found all sorts of features that I didn't find with the marker.

I have thought of this but I doubt the club will allow it.

Thanks anyhow
 

keora

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I would advise you not to risk wading, as you won't know the deeper areas, the bottom may be thick silt, you could get stuck.

Best method is to use a marker float, as someone has already mentioned.

You could also draw an outline of the pond on paper (use Google maps to trace it) and add depths to it after each cast. Casting to prominent features on the far bank will improve the accuracy of the map.

I have tried using a bomb on a leger rod, casting out and counting until you feel the line slacken as the bomb hits the bed of the lake. If it's a shallow lake with not many variations in depth, this method is not very accurate. But for deeper lakes, if you want to do a quick survey, it's worth considering.
 

Peter Jacobs

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Alternatively you could try using a bait boat with an echo sounded fitted.

I was quite surprised when using mine for the first few occasions to find some features never before discovered by using a marker float set-up.

It does take a fair amount of time but then so does continually casting and retrieving a marker float.
 

Tee-Cee

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NOT the perfect method by any means, but I use a standard plummet with a SLIDING float AND A LONG ROD(!) to get some idea of depths at distances beyond a rods length. I tend to use a heavier plummet so it sinks very quickly (in the spot you've cast to) and have totally free running line to allow the float to rise toward the surface as fast as possible.
It's then just a case of moving the sliding knot up the line until the float sits on the surface....................As I say, not perfect, but it does give a good idea of depth.

If it's a new water it's something I would do as a separate exercise (armed with a rough outline of the water on a sheet of paper and just mark each swim with an APPROXIMATE depth) and NOT when I'm actually fishing !
On most waters I fish I can check the depth after each cast (from plummet to sliding knot) against the rod length itself....

When actually fishing I can make final depth adjustment by putting a heavier shot near the hook and watch how the float settles in the water. After that it's a case of adjustment up or down until fish are located - hopefully!!

ps The above works LESS efficiently the further out you cast, so it has it's limitations !!


pps An echo sounder would do a proper job though - -if you have the dosh !
 
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barbelboi

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Similar to Peter's post above, the Hummingbird Smartcast is a good depth finder used from the bank. You can cover a lot of ground (water?;)) in minutes..........

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa6gFS34uPs]my fishfinder RF 15 smartcast rf 15 hummingbird - YouTube[/ame]
 

denzinho

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Similar to Peter's post above, the Hummingbird Smartcast is a good depth finder used from the bank. You can cover a lot of ground (water?;)) in minutes..........

It feels like cheating! hehe. It's a nice idea but i prefer the old methods rather than tech. Still i am grateful for the heads up on that advice :)
 

keora

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NOT the perfect method by any means, but I use a standard plummet with a SLIDING float AND A LONG ROD(!) to get some idea of depths at distances beyond a rods length. I tend to use a heavier plummet so it sinks very quickly (in the spot you've cast to) and have totally free running line to allow the float to rise toward the surface as fast as possible.
It's then just a case of moving the sliding knot up the line until the float sits on the surface....................As I say, not perfect, but it does give a good idea of depth.............................................

Another method is to use a self locking float to plumb the depths. Cast out with the float near the lead, slacken off the line when the lead hits the water. The float slides up to the surface, retrieve slowly and the float will remain at the same position on the line by friction. Then compare the depth against some markers along the rod length.

I once made a self locking float from a big grayling float (perch bobber type). Whip an eye to the tip of the float (fuse wire's good). Fix another adjustable eye (use a float rubber) below the body of the float.

Thread line thro' tip ring, then adjustable ring, then ring at bottom of float. Tie on the lead.

With a bit of fiddling around with the position of the adjustable ring, you can get the friction right and the float will lock after it has risen to the surface.
 

denzinho

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These are some really good methods. Time consuming but exactly what I asked for thanks guys for the responses.



:thumbs:
 

chub_on_the_block

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Aerial photos can sometimes help eg google or Bing. If one source doesnt help sometimes another does if photo was taken at different time of year. Can be excellent for showing shallow bars in gravel pits.
 

mick b

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History of the water is very useful, especially if you can find people who were present before the water was flooded.

Were the trees removed/felled, was any prior backfilling undertaken, were any buildings left on the bottom, how was the dam constructed.

Sadly another useful question in todays society is have any stolen cars been left on the bottom (I have left quite a few dumped cars on the bottom of lakes Ive managed providing they are not leaking any oils) simply because ANY submerged ironwork is very attractive to fish.


However as its Perch your targeting why don't you spend a few days spinning small Mepps style spinners?
This will tell you where the fish are, either by catches or followers.
When you've located a few fish, try a mid water fished lobworm, and keep fishing however many fish you catch.

A late friend of mine who was a superb Perch catcher swore by this cast&search method and used a float spun Shad rigged with an Owner Twintex on the tail, he would never leave a Perch hole once he started catching, simply because the bigger fish would be caught sooner or later.


Let us know how you get on byw.

.
 
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pointngo

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I'd use a jighead and a 2" shad and every time you cast out count how long it takes for it to hit bottom. You might not get an exact measurement but you will find the holes and all the other features, and catch a few along the way.
Win, win! :thumbs:
 

sodthat

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Hi
Keora's home made depth finding float is based on the same lines as the "all england swap-loc" which was a float that could be placed on the line at any time without the need to dis-assemble your terminal tackle.These, however are as rare as rocking horse doodah these days.

You may however find this item of interest Vexilar Products | 104 Deptherm The fishing odds are on your side every... | Vexilar Fishing Electronics.

It not only tells you the depth but also the temp. at that depth. :thumbs:
 
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