Delkim EV Plus versus TXi Plus

[Matt Brown]

I'm aware of the TXi Plus' remote cababilities but whats the difference with the sensitivity settings?

The spec on various websites describe the difference as single sensitivity range(EV Plus) and double synamic sensitivity range (TXi Plus). What does this mean in reality?

I want some for perch and zander fishin with super slack lines and my Fox MMX's aren't up to the job. Mainlines will be between 4lb and 10lb.

 

[Matt Rand]

Hi Matt,

I've got a set of the TXI's and a mate of mine has the EV's. Difference from what i can see is that the EV's have 6 levels of sensitivity and the TXI's have 12 levels.

I'm not overly sure about the major differences, but the TXI's certainly seem to be more sensitive and due to the extra levels of sensitivity can be set to be very weather proof with regards to false beeps, but at the same time sensitive enough to register a bite straight away.

If your going to be slack lining for predators, then you would be better off with the TXI's IMHO.

Cheers,

Another Matt

 

[Matt Brown]

Cheers Matt. I thought that might be the case. It's going to expensive!

 

[Matt Rand]

But well worth it Matt. If you are an all rounder you'll certainly appreciate them, especially for predator fishing!

 

[paul williams 2]

Matt B.

Please please don't think i'm having a "go"....but what is a super slack line? and does it have a place in either perch or Z fishing?

 

[Matt Brown]

Paul, fair question and a good idea to raise it.

There are two situations I mean (and didn't describe very well);

Firstly, when perching with lobworms and running rigs I like to use very light indicators. I've found that with a roller wheel based alarm, they can take line but there's often not enough pressure on the roller wheel to make it turn.

I get round this as best I can by sitting the rod in such a manner that the butt ring is immediately behind the back of the alarm. The wraps the line around more of the roller wheel creating more friction.

Heavier bobbins solve the problem but I get dropped runs.

The second situation is when I'm using a livebait and a drop off indicator. After a take, the lines comes free of the clip and peels freely off the open bail arm. Again, there's little pressure on the roller wheel so unless the fish is really going for it the alarm doesn't sound.

If the line comes out of the drop off indicator I strike immediately but I'm never sure if there's a fish having a go or if the wind has just pulled the line from the clip.

I want alarms that will give me the earliest and most detailed indication possible.

 

[paul williams 2]

Matt......i know where you are coming from but i'm not sure i agree that any form of slack line has a place in Zander or perch fishing......if you are using drop offs perhaps an alarmed drop off would be better?

My own line of thought though is that both species are ok with a slight resistance but not with a changing resistance.


We should have a chat some time about it Matt.......don't want to upset the ratfishers!

 

[Matt Rand]

If you?re planning on using mono Matt, then I?d agree with Paul, you should get some rear alarmed drop-offs. Even with the delks, many people have commented on the problem with line skip. This isn't due to a problem with the alarm; it is just the nature of mono.

I personally use braid, so line skip is totally eliminated due to the fact that it holds little memory and being extremely subtle it will always pass through the alarm's sensor even on a slack line.

There is one saving grace when using delks and mono though. If set to full sensitivity, the alarm will sound like crazy before the drop off falls anyway, this should be enough to get your attention.

With regards to your Perch rig, light bobbin work like you speak of would be perfectly suited to Delkims.

 

[Matt Brown]

Paul, the line only beomes slack after the line has left the clip on the drop off indicator. Are you on the Grayling Fish In? If so, it would be good to chat then.

Matt, I haven't found a braid I like for perch fishing, in the lighter breaking strains, plus I prefer to use mono as I feel it is less visible. What have you been using?

I shall probably try some 20lb PowerPro next time I go zander fishing though.

I bought a couple of TXi's this morning.

 

[paul williams 2]

Yes Matt, i'm on the grayling fish in.....look forward to meeting you and a few others.

 

[Matt Rand]

Matt,

I'm not using braid for Perch yet either, and don't know if i will. I'm very happy with flourocarbon at the moment as it is extremely discreet and is a perfect comprimise between setting the hooks and having a bit of a shock absorber for their last minute lunges. Plus it retains less memory than normal mono and passes through the Delks no problems at all.

I use 30lb Fox Submerge for Pike fishing and deadbaiting for Zander. When ledgering livebaits for Zeds I use 15lb Fox Flourocarbon; and that is only because the livebaits would keep me awake all night on braid and delks. Something you'll soon find out by the sound of things If a dragon fly Larvae farts in your swim, your going to know about it!

 

[paul williams 2]

Matt,(both!)
One thing that has often played on my mind is the possibility of the noise and or vibration from a buzzer transmitting down the line as a fish picks up the bait, .....i became paranoid about this a while back whilst eel fishing...........i think that if it does happen it could explain a lot of dropped takes that we sometimes put down to resistance.

Are your Txis fully remote? if so i would be very interested in your comments on them in use in silent (at the head)mode?

 

[Matt Brown]

Paul, I'm not sure it's an issue, but I have always had my alarms on the lowest setting anyway.

The TXi's do have a remote facility, but I haven't shelled out for a receiver yet as they're another ?140.

I tell you what does worry me and that the vibration caused by the indicator head sliding down the line, in a jerky fashion, during a take.

I've been looking at the MCF type clip on indicator heads so that I can fix clip to the line to reduce this potential issue.

The new Gardner Bug Indicators look very interesting but I haven't seen them in the flesh yet and want to know if I can remove the chain and replace it with a much longer cord. The Muddy Waters stuff looks good too.

I get very few dropped runs when worm fishing, however I get loads when using livebaits. I've put this down to small fish having a go but I'm not sure.

 

[paul williams 2]

Matt....an old time toy was two tin cans and a piece of string.......the idea was that a tight length of string carried sound........i don't know if the same can be said of anglers line and a buzzer but it's someting to blame on those days when nothing goes to plan! lol

 

[Matt Rand]

Paul,

I have to admit that i've never really worried about the sound and vibration caused by the alarm to cause dropped takes.

I always prefer to keep the alarms silent when using the remote, but i only use the remote when night fishing or when trying to keep action to myself. The majority of my predator fishing is spent using the alarms turned up at the head. I do a lot of Zandering on a very shallow stretch of water and have caught them from foot deep margins litierally 10 foot from the alarm; they've certainly never seemed to bothered.

I personally think that there are a lot of other reasons why dropped runs occur; such as the free running properties of the rig, how the rig lands in the water, bottom debris, bite dectection, angles of rod to bait, etc.... Thats not to mention smaller fish being over ambitious and pressured fish. Once i'm happy i've cracked the above, then i'll worry about them hearing/sensing my alarm.

Admittably though, the day i think i've cracked it and it all goes horribly wrong, i'll blame the alarms

 

[Ian Gemson]

The problems with such light line and fishing super slack lines as you explained is that you dont get the friction required on either the rollers or sensor bar. to compensate for this you can simply clip on a 1 oz lead ( Lead tied to a hair clip)in front of the buzzer and beind the buzzer. This ensures you get the friction. The two leads cancell each other out and there fore dont pull line and when you get a take the buzzers work.
Good Luck
Tight lines
Ian Gemson
www.smartcarping.com

 

[Matt Brown]

Paul, I think the can and string thing works because the cans are hollow. The sound reverbarates around the hollow can as it is in an acoustic guitar.

Where's a scientist when you need one?

Matt, I think you touched on something major that most anglers don't even consider. How the rig lies can be critical and of course so can the direction the fish come from and move off to after taking the bait.

Unless they're having a go on the drop, I like to strighten the hooklink out by nudging the lead back a little. I feel this give me proper bite detection.

Ian, I can see where you're coming from, but that would mean more angles and more friction. Reducing friction is often critical in perch fishing or you'll miss most of the takes.