float hook link tangles

fruitowl

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Ok guys found this really frustrating on Sunday when I reeled in I found my hook link tangled round my float so am obviously doing something wrong.
I tried spreading the shot and I tried to bulk the shot with a small one 6 inches from hook what am I doing wrong to keep suffering the problem was using 5lb main to 2lb hook link connected by micro swivel to stop line twist when retrieving (maggot bait).

HELP :eek:
 

Lord Paul of Sheffield

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that would be my first thought - feather the line on the cast - just before he float hits the water dab the spool gently with your finger- this should make the hook link straighten past the float
 

fruitowl

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Great hadn't thought of that. don't float fish very often will have to practice next time remembering what you guys have said thanks a lot.

:thumbs: :beer:
 

john step

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Where are your shots down the line. Its OK to string out shot when stick float fishing right up to the float and when you swing the float out under arm but waggler fishing is different.

The old accepted rule was the bulk cocking the float and the others starting two thirds down to avoid tangles. Any higher runs the risk of hinging the tackle into tangles. As already suggested you also need to feather down.

If fishing shallow waters, you probably only require one tell tale shot near the hook. Or perhaps a string of small ones near the hook length to counter drift whilst laying hard on.
 

mikench

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that is a technique I have yet to , consistently master! However touch wood not many tangles!
 

tigger

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It sounds as though your hooklink may be twisting on retreive, often a fast retreive can cause this problem, especially with a light hooklength and if using a bait that will spin round.
A swivel doesn't always cure line twist and many swivels wont actually swivel unless under more pressure than the hooklink can give before twisting itself....if you get my meaning.

I would suggest trying a slow controlled retreive.
 

Keith M

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To try and eliminate tangles try using around 80% of your shot at the base of your waggler and start placing the remainder of your shot at just over half depth going down towards the hook (going down in ever decreasing distances if several shot need to be used) so that it doesn't cause tangles in flight during the cast.
(See diagram below which shows a couple of common standard shotting patterns for shallowish swims of around 5ft-ish or less.



It will also help if you feather your line just before your float lands.

This shotting setup gives you a single main casting weight (the bulk shot at the base of the float) which helps stabilise the setup in flight. If you put a larger weight at the hook end you will have two casting points instead of one and it will a) minimise the casting distance and b) have the possibility of tangling in flight as the weight at the hook end will start to tangle around the float as it flies through the air.

After landing this setup will allow the first weight (at mid depth) to settle with the smaller weights below it sinking slightly slower behind it and giving a more natural descent.

If you want to fish tight up against lilies or other obstacles then don't feather your line as it lands and this will allow the hook length (which will be flying behind the float) to land behind the float so you should then have your float tight up to the obstacle with your hook sinking below it.
Whereas If you were feathering your line as your float started to land then your hooklength would start flying ahead of your float and be caught up in the obstacle.

I hope this is of some use to you.

Keith
 
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trotter2

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Replace the dropper shot with a slightly bigger size shot.
 

David Rogers 3

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I find the other thing that helps is not having your main line breaking strain more than 2lb heavier than your hooklength.
 
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