Source of float-making materials?

klik2change

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I have used ordinary pine dowel to make floats. It's not as buoyant as balsa but it still floats very well - and it's a lot heavier which helps with casting. Most of my pike floats are made from 12mm softwood dowel... and I once made my own marker float with it.
 

chavender

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Is George back to making floats yet or are you still offering to help out Chavender ???
I have a hankering for some of those lovely looking reed wagglers,i also have some blank porcupine quills that are crying out to be turned into floats.

One other thing,wasn`t there some articles related to float making that had links posted on here,possibly by George himself???

yes ,I`m still doing them mostly crowquill avons like these

prize.jpg


i have some more on the go nearing completion , plain unpainted versions in two body styles ones the classic avon shape (middle float) and the other is a elliptical shape ,they take about 2 X ssg or 8 bb etc the tips are a matt finnish in yellow ,red,orange .theres a black matt coller where the rubber sits below this the body has seven+ coats of varnish to give a glass like apperance but matt look underwater

DSCF1267.jpg


in the above picture you`ll notice the painted floats ,these have a painted crown too match the tip with matt black banding and will have a high gloss bottom half or i might paint the the bottoms ,i`ve a white band too add into the thick black band or not as the case maybe as these are customisable and the final paint pattern may be upto those who want them ( i`m doing twelve i think ,maybe 18 ) these are also the elliptical shape

all floats come with black silk whippings too the crowquill stem ,the quill passes through the body too form the tip and add strength .


I`m working on doing white tipped floats too go with me matt black tipped floats ,need too find a nice waterproof matt white though ,but i`m working on it ,some test floats below with normal one for comparison

DSCF1270.jpg






classic avon shape

DSCF1269.jpg


I`m on my second batch of these ,and i`m only doing twelve ( 4 sets of three) i`ll be doing the tips the rest of this week then whip the stems and seal with a final coat of varnish .


elliptical shape

DSCF1271.jpg


i`ve 18 of these ( 6 sets of three) on the go ,near completition ,they just need whipping and final coat

Painted elliptical shape


DSCF1272.jpg


I`ve 20 of these on the go ,not sure yet what the final finnish will be .

5 X Red tips
5 X yellow tips
5 X orange tips
5 X all blacks ,black body and tip ,or i might reject these and do a fancy painted body too match the others ,( i`ve kept 5 bodies back just in case) these are much more involved as specials as i may do them with verious coloured bottom halfs

they may just end up looking simular too these

DSC00225-1.jpg
or
DSC00223-2.jpg


but thats the fun with specials ,i can be a bit more creative .
 

Mark Wintle

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Chavender,
I'd say that most of your 'Avons' are more like perch bobs or grayling floats, even the 'classic' one. Many years ago you 'borrowed' one of my pics from the trotting series which shows the much more elongated shapes of Avon floats that I make based on discussions with Topper Haskins.
 

chavender

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Chavender,
I'd say that most of your 'Avons' are more like perch bobs or grayling floats, even the 'classic' one. Many years ago you 'borrowed' one of my pics from the trotting series which shows the much more elongated shapes of Avon floats that I make based on discussions with Topper Haskins.


yes ,avons come in many shapes ,from the traditional slimmer elongated topper style avons

topperavons.jpg


and they come in verious sizes and shapes from slims to fatties

veriousavons.jpg


like these old avons ,going from a topper shape too the more (now) clasic shape of the bulk of the body`s mass towards the top and slendering down

traditionalavon.jpg


modern floats seem too be styled on this more esienturated body and become a classic (but not traditional shape) shape too copy

drennan20float20avon.jpg


drennans version

952320Web.jpg


ultra`s version

classicavon.jpg


Chris Lythe version




bobbers tend too be more bulberous a more of a turnip or swede shape

veriousbobbers.jpg



admittedly the eliptical bodied ones i do could be used too make smaller bobbers at a pinch

closest i get too true bobber shape is these styro bobbers

DSC00225-2.jpg


or these tiny cork bodies

mynewfloats01-2.jpg
 

chavender

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continued

if i was making the bodies from raw materials then they would have the more traditional elongated shape ,but i don`t at the moment bother as i can get the bodies pre-shaped i can the adjust the shape or leave it as is
although i am planning on getting a dedicated small hobby lathe & copier too turn the bodies myself to my own design & get the regular consistant shape`s thats hard too achieve by doing them by hand (or using a drill)

100_0042.jpg


100_0043.jpg


100_0044.jpg


100_0045.jpg


100_0046.jpg


so for consistancy`s sake i currently buy the bodies ,and can only get the shape`s available .
 

Ray Roberts

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I had a book on float making, now long out of print. The author advocated using what he described as a body grinder. This was a piece of dowel (a bit of broom handle would do). He drilled a hole through the centre of the dowel large enough to fit a metal shaft (6in nail). The nail was araldited into the dowel. The nail was then placed into the chuck of a drill on a drill stand. The dowel was then shaped to the profile you wished the balsa body to be with a half round file, some of the dowel at each end has to be left at it's original diameter. Now for the clever bit. Take a piece of abrasive sheet and cut it to the exact length of the body shape you have just formed on the body grinder, make a series of cuts about an 1/8 in apart, stopping about a 1/4 in from its centre, offer this up to the body grinder and trim to the exact circumference of the body grinder then glue in place.

Skewer the piece of balsa on a bamboo barbecue skewer, with the body grinder spinning in the drill on the drill stand, offer the body to the grinder while revolving the skewer slowly between your fingers. when the skewer touches the bits of the grinder that are the original dia of the dowel no more grinding can take place, therefore you get a perfectly uniform size every time.

It may seem a little long winded, but the bodies only take a couple of seconds each to knock up once you have made the grinder.

The Author also used a jig to centre the holes he drilled in long lengths of balsa and used a modified drill press to force a blunt rod through the centre of the dowel.

I hope this may be of help to someone, if any points seem unclear let me know, I have used this method some time ago and it worked perfectly. The only down side is that you need a different body grinder for each float body shape.
 
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Ray Roberts

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Yes, I think it was. I have mislaid my copy, but it was a well writen book. the author made a dipping mechanism made from the works of an old cookoo clock.
 

Ray Roberts

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Ha, ha. I thought he wrote a good book especially as he wasn't a professional writer. The paint finishes he used seemed very interesting too. He floated different coloured oil paints on the surface of a container filled with water to achieve a mottled effect.
 

George387

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That is indeed from Bill Watsons Floatmaking Manual, an excellent book for starting float making and very practical, one of a few books designed for float makers.
 

Neneman Nick

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Can you put the full title etc.... of the book on this thread and i will see if i can find a copy.
many thanks.

I would love to have a go at making my own floats etc.... it`s the whipping that worries me.I have tried whipping thread on a pencil but just don`t seem to get the hang of it !!!
Practice makes perfect i suppose.
 
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George387

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