Gimmicks that aren't

mark brailsford 2

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They did a carp (stalking) rod along similar lines IIRC. I don't think that sold either. It did intrigue me though. Wish I could find one to try out.

---------- Post added at 12:13 ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 ----------



Honestly, nowt. I enthuse because I'm genuinely enthusiastic about certain products.;)

I forgot to mention the Ex-Ceed disgorgers. It's a bit strange, even for me, to enthuse about a disgorger, but they are worth enthusing over.

Only pulling the proverbial leg Sam!

Mark
 

mark brailsford 2

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Flippin eck Sam,
would never had thought that ANYONE would still be trying to market such rods!
By the way, its not mentioned in the last two shimano catalogues so must be old stock??

Mark
 

sam vimes

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Flippin eck Sam,
would never had thought that ANYONE would still be trying to market such rods!
By the way, its not mentioned in the last two shimano catalogues so must be old stock??

Mark

It's still on the Shimano website, shame they have to disguise it with a picture of a rod with normal line guides on it!;):D
 

terry m

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For me it would be from the distant past, the Auto Bail on the Mitchell Match. I can hear the groans now but I have to say that for me it worked really really well. And for the guys that fish long distance with spods and braid, if something similar was vailable today then the leather finger stalls and sliced index fingers would not be an issue.
 

sam vimes

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For me it would be from the distant past, the Auto Bail on the Mitchell Match. I can hear the groans now but I have to say that for me it worked really really well.

You know I'm no fan of Mitchells but I can't knock that at all.

And for the guys that fish long distance with spods and braid, if something similar was vailable today then the leather finger stalls and sliced index fingers would not be an issue.

However, that bit you are going to have to explain. How would the automatic finger dab bail arm help one jot?:confused:
 

terry m

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Because with the Autobail you did not need to hook the line over your finger or pinch it against the spool. You simply depressed the bail lightly then as you cast let it go - a bit like a closed face reel, so at no time does your finger come into contact with the line/braid.
 

chub_on_the_block

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Because with the Autobail you did not need to hook the line over your finger or pinch it against the spool. You simply depressed the bail lightly then as you cast let it go - a bit like a closed face reel, so at no time does your finger come into contact with the line/braid.

And then the thing would jam as you tried to release it and either the line or rod tip would snap, or you would get a feeder hitting you in the nuts at 40mph.
 

sam vimes

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Because with the Autobail you did not need to hook the line over your finger or pinch it against the spool. You simply depressed the bail lightly then as you cast let it go - a bit like a closed face reel, so at no time does your finger come into contact with the line/braid.

Sorry, I don't believe that there's a cat in hell's chance that it would work like that for spod/markering or distance carping with heavy braid.
 

cg74

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Spombs - I only bought one because it was going for a fiver and it was the biggest spod at my local tackle dealer.

Slack lines for carp - With no resistance to set a hook into the fish's lip (I usually fish with running rigs for carp), how could it work??? But it does!

I'm almost embarrassed to admit this one:
Hair-rigs - It went against all what I learnt prior; scale down to increase subtlety of bait presentation for shy fickle fish, not in there face crudeness of leaving the whole hook in full view...
It just couldn't catch fish...:eek:mg:
 

terry m

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And then the thing would jam as you tried to release it and either the line or rod tip would snap, or you would get a feeder hitting you in the nuts at 40mph.

I can only write from experience, and I never had any problems with this set up. Because of the design of the double bail springs, it was crucial that the whole mechanism was kept clean and lubricated.
 

Philip

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Isotopes. First one I brought I was convinced it would stop glowing after a couple of trips !

Still cant quite see the point of a "tri" drag. The fighting drag I thought was quite a good idea when Shimano first brought it out but it never really took off.

What advantage does having both a front and rear drag give you ?
 

chub_on_the_block

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How about "Windbeater" floats. Bodied wagglers with thin stems leading to a bulbous tip that was a pain to cock precisely with this bit proud of the water. The bulbous tip also caught the wind so would rarely sit right in the water but would keel over instead at the first sign of any wind. The floats did look great though - especially liked the black and white rings (not that you could see them at long range).

Actually these were a gimmick that that didnt work either...sorry to be off topic!
 
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sam vimes

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Still cant quite see the point of a "tri" drag. The fighting drag I thought was quite a good idea when Shimano first brought it out but it never really took off.

What advantage does having both a front and rear drag give you ?

Philip,
read the review and you can see my thoughts on it in detail. As far as I'm concerned it's a fail safe. Set and forget the front drag, at an appropriate level, and you can make a right hash of adjusting the rear during the fight without any danger of breakage. However, as often as not, I tighten the rear just beyond the setting of the front drag. This allows me to adjust easily using the fightin' drag lever but utilises the far smoother front drag in normal use. If I'm honest, I didn't buy the reel for the Tri-Drag. I really wanted a front drag Shimano, probably the Twin-Power Ci4. On being presented with both side by side and seeing the specs, I couldn't countenance paying double for the standard front drag version.
 

dangermouse

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Artificial baits.

I was very dubious about these but a couple of carp on artificial pop-ups has shown me they work at least some of the time.
 

Philip

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Philip,
read the review and you can see my thoughts on it in detail. As far as I'm concerned it's a fail safe. Set and forget the front drag, at an appropriate level, and you can make a right hash of adjusting the rear during the fight without any danger of breakage. However, as often as not, I tighten the rear just beyond the setting of the front drag. This allows me to adjust easily using the fightin' drag lever but utilises the far smoother front drag in normal use. If I'm honest, I didn't buy the reel for the Tri-Drag. I really wanted a front drag Shimano, probably the Twin-Power Ci4. On being presented with both side by side and seeing the specs, I couldn't countenance paying double for the standard front drag version.


Read the review...I can sort of understand were your coming from about setting the front drag to the limit then being able to mess about with the rear one without fear of a breakage but then it does seem to kill the point of adding a fighting drag as well...Seems a bit of an overkill to me...

Just a point about drags in general. I must say when I first started out as a kid there were some truly awful drags about ...give a yard with no resitance then seize up solid sort of thing...but nowadays even the super cheapie reels seem to have a pretty good drags on them.

I have to say overall I am a rear drag fan. Although I accept some front drags can be marginally smoother, there are some excellent rear drags as well. In addition with front drags I dont like having to start fiddling about in front of the reel near the line when playing a fish plus having to unscrew the whole thing to change a spool. Ok I know some front drags come with quick release but many dont. Rear drags just seem more practical to me.
 

Lord Paul of Sheffield

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kinda agree that if you set the front drag to where you want it and then adjusted the rear drag as you played a fish the fighting drag would not be needed

better to ahve a front drag set to where you want it - no rear drag but a fighting drag to play the fish on
 

sam vimes

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kinda agree that if you set the front drag to where you want it and then adjusted the rear drag as you played a fish the fighting drag would not be needed

better to ahve a front drag set to where you want it - no rear drag but a fighting drag to play the fish on

Granted, fightin' or rear drag is kind of redundant, but you don't get one without the other. Since using the Tri-Drag in the manner described I've had no drag related losses whatsoever. I couldn't say the same for my Stradics where I'd have been forced to set the main drag lighter to approach the same success rate. That meant playing fish longer and therefore increasing playing time giving greater chance of losses.

Ultimately, I doubt that I'm going to convince anyone. It's too hard to describe exactly how good they are and why they're so good. I was as sceptical as anyone and, as I said before, only bought the tri-drag Twinpower because it was less than half the price of the exact same front drag only Twinpower. My feeling being that I could simply screw the rear drag up to maximum and never touch it again if I so chose.

Unless people actually get to use this reel they are never going to appreciate just how good it is. The amount I've seen on the banks and distict lack of them in the shops suggests that it's only ever going to be a select few that have bought them and that they'll barely sell any before discontinuing them.
 
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