Line rating suggestion please.
- Thread starter dicky123
- Start date
Twenty grams is less than ¾ of an ounce so a relatively light line would be recommended, definitely nothing more than about 4lb B/S or a little less as the casting weight has to carry the line . . . . .
As that rod is designed for very light spinning or drop-shotting, then I'd probably go with 3lb B/S line myself . . .. .
As that rod is designed for very light spinning or drop-shotting, then I'd probably go with 3lb B/S line myself . . .. .
robtherake
Well-known member
It might be worth considering braid for lure work, which will give you a bigger margin for error and a chance to hand-line snagged lures back. Better bite-detection, too. An 8/10lb braid is as thin as 4/5lb mono.
Phil Heaton
Well-known member
10lb power pro would be a good option, unless you are fishing snaggy waters then 15lb may be better
robtherake
Well-known member
Fox do 150m spools of 10lb braid (Torque) for 6 or 7 quid, so it isn't as expensive as you might think. It lasts a hell of a lot longer, too, and doesn't suffer from line twist in the same way that mono does. Can't say how good it is yet - I only bought it last week and have yet to use it.
http://www.foxrage.com/catalogues-products.php?section=11&product=233
http://www.foxrage.com/catalogues-products.php?section=11&product=233
While I can see the thinking behind using braid, you still have to consider the intended quarry or target fish when using lures of less than ¾ of an ounce . . . hardly likely to be encountering very large fish . . . so why the tow ropes in braid on a 9ft drop shioting rod?
soft plastic
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Because those "tow ropes" are thinner than mono.
Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
But, the point I was making was: it is actually necessary?
I don't see the point behind using braid when a simple 3 or 4 pound b/s mono would be just as good given the type and size of the fish one intends to catch on a rod that in all honesty is not designed to be used for large specimen fish.
Seems like added expense with no added value to me . . . . . .
robtherake
Well-known member
Predators have hard mouths and braid, with its inherent lack of stretch, makes it far easier to get a positive hook-up. A floating braid seems to help with getting the line in a more vertical orientation and helps with dropshotting presentation. It also acts as a bite indicator, enabling a bite to be seen before the fish feels any real resistance. I'm no expert and just beginning to learn how to dropshot, but already it's easy to see the benefits of using braided mainline (with an Allbright-knotted mono or fluoro leader).
For straight jigging and spinning, tied direct or with a bite-proof trace, the extra strength means you get more of your lures back, too. Essential if your casting is as random as mine.
For straight jigging and spinning, tied direct or with a bite-proof trace, the extra strength means you get more of your lures back, too. Essential if your casting is as random as mine.
Bur, those inherent qualities also result in more mouth injuries to hooked ish as well as not allowing any elasticity thereby making the fight far more exhausting for the fish?
I am not anti-braid, per se, just in this case I think it is over-gunning the situation somewhat.
I think the issue here is around the “intended quarry”.
Whilst you might be fishing for small Perch a Pike can still take a tiny mepps or drop shot lure. I would not be confident the 3lb line Peter you suggested would survive the aggressive take of a modest Jack or bigger ..my opinion anyway.
Also as already suggested the diameter of braid is lower so it wont be like trying to cast the same strength mono it will be more balanced.
As for mouth damage, I don’t see braid being an issue on bony mouthes fsh like Pike, Zander or even Perch, plus most people are putting a trace of some sort in there anyway, they don’t tie the lure direct to the braid.
Finally as far as exhausting a fish with too long a fight …I just dont see it. Braid doesn’t exhaust a fish more than mono and even if it does the difference must be so small its unimportant. I suspect the fish is more traumatized by the hook in its mouth and being dragged from the water.
Whilst you might be fishing for small Perch a Pike can still take a tiny mepps or drop shot lure. I would not be confident the 3lb line Peter you suggested would survive the aggressive take of a modest Jack or bigger ..my opinion anyway.
Also as already suggested the diameter of braid is lower so it wont be like trying to cast the same strength mono it will be more balanced.
As for mouth damage, I don’t see braid being an issue on bony mouthes fsh like Pike, Zander or even Perch, plus most people are putting a trace of some sort in there anyway, they don’t tie the lure direct to the braid.
Finally as far as exhausting a fish with too long a fight …I just dont see it. Braid doesn’t exhaust a fish more than mono and even if it does the difference must be so small its unimportant. I suspect the fish is more traumatized by the hook in its mouth and being dragged from the water.
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maurice walsh
Well-known member
as a highjack to this tread,:wh could anyone point me in the right direction of/to a 100g + ish casting weight, 8/9foot rod, and what mono or braid lb-ish line to go with it, pike being the target with mid/lrg soft lures bounced on/along the bottom