Bobbin indicators and electronic bite alarms
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LEGERING
Part Three - Bobbin Indicators
Part two of this legering series introduced the simple quiver tip and paternoster rig as a method for general fishing on a stillwater. Now in part 3 I will look at bobbins, a set-up that is used for targeting larger stillwater fish like tench, larger bream, carp, etc.
Fishing a leger set up with bobbins (also known as 'hangers') is particularly useful if you are wanting to fish with two or more rods as they are set up with the rods pointing straight out in front rather than parallel to the bank as with the quivertip set-up. This method can also be coupled, though it's by no means compulsory, with electronic bite alarms.
The Tackle
Bearing in mind that this method is targeting bigger, more powerful fish, the rods that are generally used are also stepped up in power. This method really suits an Avon style rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve (TC) and of between 11 and 12 feet in length. I personally prefer a 12ft rod as it picks up line more efficiently when fishing at distance The Avon type of rod has a strong but through action that will adequately cast a heavy feeder, yet be soft enough in the tip to deal with powerful fish plunging under the rod tip.
The reel should be a robust 3000 or 4000 size as it's going to be taking a fair bit of punishment from both casting and playing fish. It should be loaded, depending on anticipated target species size, with between 4lb and 6lb breaking strain mono.
Running Paternoster
With this set up I still like to use a paternoster style terminal rig because of its sensitivity to showing bites. But, because bigger fish are generally the target, I also want the rig to be safe for the fish should the line break for any reason. The rig described in part two was a fixed paternoster tied with a four turn water knot, which is fine when targeting smaller fish that are unlikely to break your line. But for bigger fish I want a rig that will shed the weight if the line breaks above the paternoster join. With a fixed paternoster combined with strong lines and heavier weights there is a serious risk that a fish will become tethered by a trailing weight or feeder becoming entangled in an underwater snag. Hence I use a running paternoster.
I construct mine as follows, although there are many variations that can be employed depending on which manufacturer's terminal products you are using.
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first place rubber float stop on the mainline about a foot up the line
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then a plain rubber bead
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then a running link bead
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then another plain bead
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tie a small swivel to the end of the mainline to trap the beads on
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then to the running link bead I attach a 4 to 6 inch length of mono with a snap swivel on the other end to which the feeder or bomb is attached
A hooklink of slightly lesser breaking strain than my mainline and about 2 feet long is then attached to the swivel. The hook size is determined by the intended hookbait.
The result of this is that I still have the paternoster effect, with minimal resistance felt by a taking fish, but the rig is safe. Should the line break above the swivel while playing a fish the link and weight will easily slide off the line, eliminating the risk of tethering the fish.
The rubber float stop on the rig performs two functions. Firstly it prevents the link from sliding too far up the mainline when casting. This can happen when using a large bait and it shortens the casting distance that can be achieved. Secondly the stop acts as a bolt effect should the fish have moved off far enough to pull the running beads up to the stop before you get to strike, setting the hook for you. However, the stop will slide off easily if the line snaps above it.
The Indicators
OK, let's have a look at how the bite indicators work. A bobbin is basically just a visual indicator that clips onto your line between the reel and the butt ring of the rod. The line is slackened slightly so the bobbin hangs down below the rod.
When a fish picks up the bait and moves away it tightens the line and the bobbin will show the bite by rising up towards the rod. Extremely simple but so effective, sensitive and visual.
Years ago, before commercial versions were available, enterprising anglers used many different ingenious versions of home made bobbins. Silver foil paper from a cigarette packet folded over the line was my favourite, while others have used washing up bottle tops, lumps of bread dough and ladies hairgrips pushed through corks. Today though you can buy smart commercial versions that give you a few fringe benefits, such as being able to alter the weight of the bobbin, or the facility for inserting isotopes that glow in the dark for night fishing. The most important aspect of the commercial versions though is that they disconnect easily from the line when you strike.
Setting up the Rods
To use this set-up you need to place your rod on rod rests. Two rests are used per rod and set up at 90 degrees to the bank so your rod is facing straight out into the lake. As I mentioned earlier this method of legering lends itself well to using two rods. The two sets of rests can be set quite close together enabling you to watch both bobbin indicators easily. The front rod rest should be of the 'V' type that does not trap the line against the rod when the rod is in the rest. The rear rest should be the 'U' style designed for holding the rod butt.
The bobbin is usually attached at the bottom end to string or chain with a ring attachment at the other end of the string that sits under the front rod rest head. This secures the bobbin to the front rod rest, preventing it flying off into the undergrowth when you strike. The top of the bobbin has an adjustable clip that can be adjusted to the diameter of the line being used so that it just holds fast on the line without dropping off, but disconnects itself easily when you strike or wind in.
The distance apart that you set the two rod rests is critical. They should be set so the reel sits just in front of the rear rest and the butt ring of the rod sits close to the inside of the front rest. This stops the rod from sliding while sitting on the rests.
The fishing
OK, that's the rig and set up explained. Now let's look at how and when we can best use this method.
This set-up is primarily aimed at catching bigger fish, particularly on lakes and gravel pits where large tench and bream are the target. Therefore it is normally used in conjunction with a groundbait approach where the feed is introduced at the start of a session by throwing or catapulting balls of groundbait into the swim. You won't be casting so often with this method as you would with the quivertip approach; it's more of a 'bait and wait' method.
On the snap link swivel you attach either a bomb or a feeder. As with the fixed paternoster described in Part two of this legering series, the snap link gives you the versatility to swap and change as you wish. If using a bomb you should use the lightest one with which you can easily reach your casting distance.
It's pointless fishing your hookbait away from your feed so, as described in part two, accurate casting is paramount and the same method for achieving accuracy should be employed. The only difference here is that I would be loathe to use the line clip in the way described with the quiver set up. Larger fish may take line off you from the moment you strike and if you have your line clipped up you will be in trouble and will probably get snapped. One way around this is to cast to your fishing area and then tie a two inch piece of light pole elastic to your mainline at the reel. You can then put the elastic into the line clip which will pull out again easily when a fish is on. Next time you simply cast back out until the elastic comes off the reel and re-clip the elastic back in to the line clip. You are safe in the knowledge then that your rig is set at the correct distance.
Once your rig is cast and in position and your rod is set in the rest you should fully tighten the line up to the rig. Then turn the anti-reverse off on your reel, clip the bobbin to the line between the reel and the butt ring and gently pull line from the reel until it hangs about a foot below the rod. The bobbin must be just heavy enough to ensure that the line between the rod tip and the lead remains taut, but not overly tensioned. If the wind or water tow moves the bobbin, add weight to it until it just holds position. This is usually achieved by pinching SSG shot onto the string below the bobbin, though some commercial versions have weight attachments. When set up correctly the rig is 'critically balanced' and no resistance will be felt by a taking fish.
Leave the anti-reverse feature set to 'off' on the reel. If you get a savage take the reel handle will turn backwards and give line until you pick up the rod thus preventing the rod from being pulled off the rest.
Bite Alarms
Electronic bite alarms are usually associated with carp fishing, but they are extremely useful when partnered with this method. Simply replace the front rod rest heads with the alarms and you have a secondary bite indicator. Purists will scoff at the thought of using electronic alarms, but they do enable you take your eyes from the bobbins for a while if you want to take in your surroundings and enjoy the wildlife,which is a bonus of our great sport. But don't use alarms as an excuse to wander from your rods. Stay put alongside them or one day you will lose some expensive tackle.
That's it for part 3. In part 4 of this legering series I will move onto running water and look at light quivertip set-ups that suit roaming small rivers. See you then.
callum smith
