Stu Dexter plays a barbel caught while waggler fishing the river Dove
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So far in this series I have concentrated on how to get the best out of using floats attached top-and-bottom on moving waters. The control and bait presentation are usually far superior to that achievable with bottom end floats especially on where the flow is anything more than sluggish. There is a place for using bottom-end-only floats (commonly called wagglers) on rivers however, when circumstances are such that either presentation is improved, or this is the only way to succeed.
When to fish a waggler
What are those circumstances and how do I recognise them? The first instance is slow and steady water particularly with a wind that is causing surface drift. The second one is distance. The final one is being able to produce a different presentation to that achievable with other floats. This might mean being able to fish on the drop, or dragging on, or even under a bush. Although a top and bottom float can be cast more than twenty yards out it will not be easy to retain good control of it unless the wind is light or favourable. By sinking the line it might be possible to keep control of the float. This skill takes a lot of practice but it is an art worth mastering.
Keep it simple
I offer some simple guidelines for using a waggler. When learning to use a waggler, make things easy for yourself. Don't fish at long range or in a difficult wind. As with learning to trot the top and bottom float look for an even flowing swim. Experimentation is the key to success with this method, so don't be afraid to try different floats, shotting patterns or techniques whilst fishing with a waggler to get it to work properly. Even during the course of a day changes to wind strength and direction, or light conditions can also demand changes.
Firstly ensure that you can cast the required distance with ease. Don't bring the float too near the rod tip when casting. Allow at least four feet of line if possible so that the rod can wind-up the power efficiently and do its job properly. Concentrate on getting the timing of the release right and there should be no great swishing noises. Feather the float onto the water by using your finger to gently brake the line as it leaves the spool so that the terminal tackle is gently straightened as it lands, rather than landing in a heap. For these early attempts don't try to fish too far out; up to fifteen yards is about right. For water up to five feet deep 2AAA locking shot is fine, with, say, 6 number 8 shot down the line, up to eight or nine feet will need perhaps 3AAA, with 8 no 8 down the line. Start off by evenly spacing the no 8 shot between the float and hook. It is best to avoid really deep water for the moment.
When to sink the line
Only sink the line if it is absolutely necessary. Sunken line buffers the strike and cannot be mended when trotting. Whilst it is possible to mend the line to a degree when fishing with a waggler it is often the case that a large belly of line will develop, but provided the float is not pulled off course a long sweeping strike will connect with the fish. It is sometimes better to strike towards the bank in this instance rather than upstream so that the strike is not merely trying to straighten the bow in the line. Learn to strike with a steady pull rather that the sharper lift needed for top-and-bottom floats. This is why the tip-actioned stick float rods are much less suitable for waggler fishing. It is sometimes the case that the fish is only felt when some line is reeled in after the strike.
A selection of waggler floats
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The thicker tipped floats (without inserts) are better for dragging on, whereas inserts are better for on-the-drop fishing to show lift bites. The length of the float has a bearing on its controllability, long floats help get the line underneath surface skim but may not be so suitable in shallow water and also impede the strike. To start waggler fishing look for a 2AAA float of about 9 inches long with a 3AAA float about an inch longer. There is a place for much shorter or longer floats but they are much more specialist.
Tip colours for wagglers
Although I mostly prefer red tipped floats, black tips often show up better on wide waters with no trees on the skyline, or yellow may be better where there are lots of trees with bright green reflections. The most difficult conditions are when there is a breeze with black and white checkerboard, especially facing the sun, or in very low light levels.
Shotting a waggler
Shotting patterns can be much lighter down the line than the equivalent top-and-bottom float. The shot load that locks the float normally comprises about 2/3 to ¾ of the total load. It helps to have a gap of about ½ inch between the two shot actually locking the float to allow the float to collapse on the strike. Use a float adapter on the base so that the float can be changed easily.
A bulk may be needed down the line where small fish are a nuisance. This will also stabilise the bait to a certain extent. If the size of the bulk down the line increases it may be necessary to increase the size of the float so that the balance of weight is maintained, otherwise it will become increasingly difficult to cast. As with all floats, the shot nearest the hook affects bait presentation, bite registration and how long a fish will hold on to a bait. The closer to the hook and the bigger the shot the more easily the bite will be seen and the more quickly the fish will feel the shot.
It is possible to hold back a waggler by using a thick tip and under-shotting. This gives you something to work with; not much, but enough to make a difference. You are limited in how much you can hold the float back but by paying out line carefully it is possible to exercise some degree of control. I learnt how to do it when I obtained 'World Class Match Fishing' by Kevin Ashurst way back in 1977, and simply practiced for an entire summer. I didn't care about what I caught, only on mastering the technique.
Bodied wagglers are rarely needed on rivers although I carry a selection. If you really need a lot of weight to get through bleak this is the way to do it. The pro's and cons of a body are that a body enables much more weight to be carried and improves stability, but against that it hinders the strike and makes more disturbance.
Some other variations
So far I have covered the main techniques of floatfishing. Let's take a closer look at some in-between methods for laying a bait on the bottom. Basic laying-on is the simplest technique and simply means ensuring that the float is over-depth so that the bait is resting on the bottom with or without some of the shot also on the bottom. The only requirement is that the float does not get dragged out of position and it is most useful in slack water, particularly where the line can be kept off the water. The stability of the rig comes from the anchoring of the bait to the bottom. This method can be used to lay on weed in summer. Use several tiny shots on the hook length to hold the bait. Some experimentation is needed to get the best set-up. This method is best suited to fishing fairly close in.
Stretpegging
The next variation is stretpegging. The float is again set well over depth and cast downstream but this time the rod is used to hold the float steady. Although the rod must be held it is a good idea to use a rod rest for this method to keep it completely steady. In this case the float is held for a short time before being allowed to trot a short distance then held again. It may be necessary to adjust the shotting so that the float sits correctly. The tight line between the rod and float can cause the roach to feel too much resistance so there is a case for not being too close to the float.
Upstream back trotting
Whilst stretpegging is a downstream method there are occasions where a different style of presentation is required to fish upstream. The shot on the line is used to slow down the bait by dragging on rather than using the rod to hold back the float. This technique is useful when it is difficult to get to the river's edge due to trees or marsh, and so the swim can only be approached from downstream rather than the more usual upstream position. Cast the tackle upstream and allow it to trot back towards you. This is known as back dragging. The float is set over-depth and adjusted so that the shot are dragging bottom. It may be necessary to under shot the float or experiment with different sized bottom shot or adjust the depth. The float will ease and dip as it trundles back towards the angler who will need to retrieve line as it does so.
With further adjustment of the tackle the bait can be made to hold completely still so that a form of delicately balanced laying-on is achieved. Because of this delicate balance the roach does not have to do much to signal an easily hit bite. It helps to use a long rod to pick up the line when striking, as the fish will probably be coming towards you. Feeding the swim needs some thought as well. It may be easier to walk quietly upstream and introduce the groundbait from time to time. I must admit that this method has limited use, and more conventional methods will usually suffice. This method works best where there is a fairly steady and not too fast current that is not turbulent. Adjust the float so that the tip is above the water nearly all of the time. The float dipping decisively, lifting or moving upstream can all signal bites.
Next week I shall conclude by looking at suitable floats for trotting on rivers.
eddie miller
