F
Frothey
Guest
why not just mesh the baits?
I haven't got a f****n clue what your goin on about! I'm trying to picture it slightly unsucessfully. So the bobbin will basically fall over onto the ground when there is a drop back? And there is enough weight there to pull the line back through the alarm and give an indication? Surely you'd only hear a couple of beeps before the tension was off the line and the alarm stops, wouldn't this be a problem if your kipping or having a leak or distracted some other way? Is it just me being stupid? Don't answer that last question!
I hope this isn't coming accross as me trying a wind up because I am genuinely curious as to the theory behind your setup.
I hope this isn't coming accross as me trying a wind up because I am genuinely curious as to the theory behind your setup.
G
Gary Knowles 2
Guest
Ta Stu - what about slack line on big/deep/snaggy waters ?
Frothey - meshing 2 x 10mm bolies per rig - couldn't be arsed mate....
Frothey - meshing 2 x 10mm bolies per rig - couldn't be arsed mate....
F
Frothey
Guest
what about just adding a load of albumen to some base mix gary?
heathrow do customised hookbaits as well....
heathrow do customised hookbaits as well....
G
Gary Knowles 2
Guest
Sorry -what's albumen ?
F
Frothey
Guest
yep, as above. whey gel or blood meal could be used (although blood meal tends to attract tench 
)
)
L
Little Stu!
Guest
"Ta Stu - what about slack line on big/deep/snaggy waters ?"
I'd still rather have a slack line dropping onto a contour of a lake bed than to have a tight line strung out like a violin string (Big pits or not).
Snaggy waters, then depending on what kind of snags etc I'd think about each situation differently.
I'd still rather have a slack line dropping onto a contour of a lake bed than to have a tight line strung out like a violin string (Big pits or not).
Snaggy waters, then depending on what kind of snags etc I'd think about each situation differently.
L
Little Stu!
Guest
"I haven't got a f****n clue what your goin on about! I'm trying to picture it slightly unsucessfully. So the bobbin will basically fall over onto the ground when there is a drop back?"
YES
"And there is enough weight there to pull the line back through the alarm and give an indication?"
YES
"Surely you'd only hear a couple of beeps before the tension was off the line and the alarm stops, wouldn't this be a problem if your kipping or having a leak or distracted some other way?"
NO
"Is it just me being stupid? "
YES
YES
"And there is enough weight there to pull the line back through the alarm and give an indication?"
YES
"Surely you'd only hear a couple of beeps before the tension was off the line and the alarm stops, wouldn't this be a problem if your kipping or having a leak or distracted some other way?"
NO
"Is it just me being stupid? "
YES
B
Big Rik
Guest
truly slack lines that have absorbed water and are following the contours of the lake bed don't give drop backs anyway.
If the fish swam towards you, the line would follow the contour and give a normal forward take.
Slack lines can be a pain, if your water is affected by undertow, then you can be giving out many yards of line thoughtout the night to try and keep the line slack, else it just pulls up tight.
If the fish swam towards you, the line would follow the contour and give a normal forward take.
Slack lines can be a pain, if your water is affected by undertow, then you can be giving out many yards of line thoughtout the night to try and keep the line slack, else it just pulls up tight.
J
jason fisher
Guest
ooh it's nice to have you back. these ave been a spot on set of articles.
wouldn't you be worried about slack line hanging about on top of the weeds instead of through em if you don't initially tighten up.
wouldn't you be worried about slack line hanging about on top of the weeds instead of through em if you don't initially tighten up.
F
Frothey
Guest
probably better that way......
L
Little Stu!
Guest
It's been an ongoing argument on FM for many years now. There are those who prefer slack lines and those who don't. Then you've got those who use slack lines only for margin fishing and violin strings for distance. I just want to make it clear as to why I use slack lines for the 'majority' of my fishing:
I don't like spooking fish once my baits are out there and even the korda videos will show fish spooking away from tight lines as they run through them. Imagine a 20 acre water with 20 anglers all fishing on one bank, that'll be some 60 violin lines pointing hard and fast at the hookbaits. Fish as we know roam around quite a bit and to bump into tight lines has got to be off putting to say the very least. I'm not into conventional backleading (i.e. dropping a clip on backlead 5 yards out from the rod tip) as I feel this won?t help the line lay that goes out to the lead in that the line is pinned down at the rod tip with a direct tight line to the baits which based on being tight won?t follow the contours of a lake bed as a slack line would. This also won?t sit naturally with any weed beds or bars etc. I prefer to use flying backleads which will pin my line to the deck some 5-10 yards back from the bait giving me the confidence that all is well nearing the rig end. I also use a lead putty on the end of my rig tubing to enhance a pin down as well as various blobs of putty on my braid hooklength. When I?ve cast out I let the lot settle for a few minutes so I am not then trying to get the line to slacken back through the back lead. I then use light bobbins whatever the weather and change the control on my buzzers to show either sensitive indication or more sturdy indication meaning I wouldn?t take the option of putting heavier weights on my bobbins to slow down wind beeps. With regard to drop-backs then I refer you to my fishing partner Big Rik?s comments.
Overall the entire set-up follows this simple and seemingly age old argument:
Slack lines will carry a faster and more accurate indication of a run or take or bite than a tight line. I use shimano technium line which is deemed a mixture of both mono and braid with regard to sensitivity and feel but not material etc (I thought I?d share that as this argument usually spins off in different directions with regard to braid users and mono users). The slack line as its not tight to the bait acts as a shock absorber giving indication throughout the line back to the indicators whatever the natural slack curvature it has taken form in on the lake bed (apart from extreme instances of heavy undertow described above). A tight line has already acted as a shock absorber by the very nature that its stretched by being tight and has had the benefits of sensitivity already removed and its this sensitivity that travels the distance of the line that makes it my choice of use.
I don't like spooking fish once my baits are out there and even the korda videos will show fish spooking away from tight lines as they run through them. Imagine a 20 acre water with 20 anglers all fishing on one bank, that'll be some 60 violin lines pointing hard and fast at the hookbaits. Fish as we know roam around quite a bit and to bump into tight lines has got to be off putting to say the very least. I'm not into conventional backleading (i.e. dropping a clip on backlead 5 yards out from the rod tip) as I feel this won?t help the line lay that goes out to the lead in that the line is pinned down at the rod tip with a direct tight line to the baits which based on being tight won?t follow the contours of a lake bed as a slack line would. This also won?t sit naturally with any weed beds or bars etc. I prefer to use flying backleads which will pin my line to the deck some 5-10 yards back from the bait giving me the confidence that all is well nearing the rig end. I also use a lead putty on the end of my rig tubing to enhance a pin down as well as various blobs of putty on my braid hooklength. When I?ve cast out I let the lot settle for a few minutes so I am not then trying to get the line to slacken back through the back lead. I then use light bobbins whatever the weather and change the control on my buzzers to show either sensitive indication or more sturdy indication meaning I wouldn?t take the option of putting heavier weights on my bobbins to slow down wind beeps. With regard to drop-backs then I refer you to my fishing partner Big Rik?s comments.
Overall the entire set-up follows this simple and seemingly age old argument:
Slack lines will carry a faster and more accurate indication of a run or take or bite than a tight line. I use shimano technium line which is deemed a mixture of both mono and braid with regard to sensitivity and feel but not material etc (I thought I?d share that as this argument usually spins off in different directions with regard to braid users and mono users). The slack line as its not tight to the bait acts as a shock absorber giving indication throughout the line back to the indicators whatever the natural slack curvature it has taken form in on the lake bed (apart from extreme instances of heavy undertow described above). A tight line has already acted as a shock absorber by the very nature that its stretched by being tight and has had the benefits of sensitivity already removed and its this sensitivity that travels the distance of the line that makes it my choice of use.
G
Gary Knowles 2
Guest
Good points.
Myself I prefer a relativley tight line with flyling backleads and heavy bobbins at the top. But this is probably because the line I use is usually lighter than a carp anglers line and the waters I fish pretty shallow and featureless. This means the last 10-15 yards will usually be pinned down pretty tight. Without taking the pi55 I'm not concerened about spooking carp and the amount of lines you sometimes get when bream fishing leads me to belive that they arent too spooky when it comes to line.
Like Rik says though I've had horrendous problems with undertow when bream fishing on some of the waters I've fished when a wind gets up, undertow and drifting weed causes the dreaded 'bobbin creep' all night.
ps - I do slack line in the margins.
Myself I prefer a relativley tight line with flyling backleads and heavy bobbins at the top. But this is probably because the line I use is usually lighter than a carp anglers line and the waters I fish pretty shallow and featureless. This means the last 10-15 yards will usually be pinned down pretty tight. Without taking the pi55 I'm not concerened about spooking carp and the amount of lines you sometimes get when bream fishing leads me to belive that they arent too spooky when it comes to line.
Like Rik says though I've had horrendous problems with undertow when bream fishing on some of the waters I've fished when a wind gets up, undertow and drifting weed causes the dreaded 'bobbin creep' all night.
ps - I do slack line in the margins.
L
Little Stu!
Guest
Barney, could you delve into more detail on your point "the amount of lines you sometimes get when bream fishing leads me to belive that they arent too spooky when it comes to line" please?
W
Warren 'Hatrick' (Wol) Gaunt
Guest
Liners Barney?
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Gary Knowles 2
Guest
Yes, liners Wol.
Stu
What I mean is when the bream are over the bait, or more usually moving in numbers between me and my bait/rigs you can be kept active for hours with line bites - 'liners'
Most of these invole a slow lift (if fishing light bobbins or swingers) before the bobbin slowly drops back in place. If fishing tight with heavy bobbins then the line just tightens slightly for a few seconds then slowly slackens again. Either way it appears to me that the bream don't bolt off at making contact with the line but carry on about there business without any haste. If they were being spooked then I wouldn't expect them to slowly build up the pressure before (I presume) the ;ine slides off there flanks or pectorals.
These can get so bad when breaming that most bream anglers I know, myself included do not strike at positive indications. If it goes to the butt ring it needs to stay there and 'twich' before I lift into it and if it drops back I'll wind the bobbin back up to the top and let it drop down again before I'll tighten up,
Stu
What I mean is when the bream are over the bait, or more usually moving in numbers between me and my bait/rigs you can be kept active for hours with line bites - 'liners'
Most of these invole a slow lift (if fishing light bobbins or swingers) before the bobbin slowly drops back in place. If fishing tight with heavy bobbins then the line just tightens slightly for a few seconds then slowly slackens again. Either way it appears to me that the bream don't bolt off at making contact with the line but carry on about there business without any haste. If they were being spooked then I wouldn't expect them to slowly build up the pressure before (I presume) the ;ine slides off there flanks or pectorals.
These can get so bad when breaming that most bream anglers I know, myself included do not strike at positive indications. If it goes to the butt ring it needs to stay there and 'twich' before I lift into it and if it drops back I'll wind the bobbin back up to the top and let it drop down again before I'll tighten up,
L
Little Stu!
Guest
Makes perfect sense to me Barney, good logic. I assume then that you're relying fully on your rig/hook to do the business then?
D
Deecy
Guest
Liners can be slow lifts when fishing at range but at close range can be very savage even with slack lines.
Rosehips will indeed catch Chub, and everything big enough to eat one on the Thames anyway and stay intact for up to 24 hours.
As for glugs I have found that if you leave frozens in what is called various names but is in actual fact soluble fish protein they do go rock hard.Hinders sell it as Fish Prthers by other names but it is soluble fish protein.Price varies too !!It needs to be in a fridge during the hardening process.
Rosehips will indeed catch Chub, and everything big enough to eat one on the Thames anyway and stay intact for up to 24 hours.
As for glugs I have found that if you leave frozens in what is called various names but is in actual fact soluble fish protein they do go rock hard.Hinders sell it as Fish Pr
thers by other names but it is soluble fish protein.Price varies too !!It needs to be in a fridge during the hardening process.
G
Gary Knowles 2
Guest
"I assume then that you're relying fully on your rig/hook to do the business then?"
Completely, in fact when using braid you can't strike or you'll pull the hook out and most are hooked in the bottom lip using either 8lb florou or 15lb mantis with the last 2 inch stripped simple knotless knot for both. 9 times out of 10 popped up an inch off the bottom.
As I'm relying totaly on the rig to hook up I'd be intersted in your thoughts on the end rig. Is there something that you feel would put more fish on the bank for me?
to be honest I have very few fish that drop off but I often wonder about 'bites' that i've never seen due to the hook not pricking the fish.
Completely, in fact when using braid you can't strike or you'll pull the hook out and most are hooked in the bottom lip using either 8lb florou or 15lb mantis with the last 2 inch stripped simple knotless knot for both. 9 times out of 10 popped up an inch off the bottom.
As I'm relying totaly on the rig to hook up I'd be intersted in your thoughts on the end rig. Is there something that you feel would put more fish on the bank for me?
to be honest I have very few fish that drop off but I often wonder about 'bites' that i've never seen due to the hook not pricking the fish.