Stalking Rod ?
- Thread starter naxian62
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binka
Guest
I do very little carp fishing but I'll stick me neck out and say that I can't see anything wrong with it in principle.
In a snaggy, hook 'n hold situation it would be irresponsible to deliberately fish too light and a sturdy rod fits the bill in my book so long as it has the length to negotiate whatever is directly in front of you when playing and landing your fish and that it is balanced with the strength of line being used.
I suppose it could be frowned upon by the splash mat brigade but if you already own the rod you'll be the one with more money in your wallet and you know what they say about fools and their money.
Some tackle companies do boat and carp rods and I suspect, in some cases, the differences to the overall rods are little more than tweaks such as ringing and reel seats but I could be wrong.
The only issue I foresee is if the rod is built to be used upside down or rings upwards as some blanks have a spine to stiffen the action and if this is the case it will mean you're either using the rod in a way it's not designed to be used, and which will affect the action (if used rings down), or your reel handle will be on the wrong side if used rings up.
In a snaggy, hook 'n hold situation it would be irresponsible to deliberately fish too light and a sturdy rod fits the bill in my book so long as it has the length to negotiate whatever is directly in front of you when playing and landing your fish and that it is balanced with the strength of line being used.
I suppose it could be frowned upon by the splash mat brigade but if you already own the rod you'll be the one with more money in your wallet and you know what they say about fools and their money.
Some tackle companies do boat and carp rods and I suspect, in some cases, the differences to the overall rods are little more than tweaks such as ringing and reel seats but I could be wrong.
The only issue I foresee is if the rod is built to be used upside down or rings upwards as some blanks have a spine to stiffen the action and if this is the case it will mean you're either using the rod in a way it's not designed to be used, and which will affect the action (if used rings down), or your reel handle will be on the wrong side if used rings up.
mikench
Well-known member
As Binka has stated a boat rod for use with a multiplier would look odd in a course setting and might even alarm the most fanatical carper and you would derive, inmho, very little enjoyment from its use, Hauling up a conger , ray, or dogfish from the depths requires brute strength and little finesse!
steve2
Well-known member
Most short stalking rods are 3lb tc or higher range so they are not much different to sea rods. If you have one use it. It might seem strange but one of my clubs didn't allow stalking for carp you were only allowed to fish from made up swims. I ignored this rule and caught some good fish.
sam vimes
Well-known member
I've no idea how a 12-20lb class boat rod would compare to a modern carp stalking rod. However, I suspect that your biggest issue will be the reaction of the fishery owners and other anglers. Even if there's not much between the two types of rod, it won't matter much if it's obviously a boat rod.
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If thats all you have i'd just use it.
Regarding using a multiplier on fresh waters, i've actually trotted with a multiplier on tidal rivers and it was great, Super smooth reels and the line just pulled off with ease and controlling the line was so easy just using my thumb on the spool.
Only downside was using the rod guides pointing upward.
Regarding using a multiplier on fresh waters, i've actually trotted with a multiplier on tidal rivers and it was great, Super smooth reels and the line just pulled off with ease and controlling the line was so easy just using my thumb on the spool.
Only downside was using the rod guides pointing upward.
I dont think it really matters if its a boat rod or whatever but for close in fishing I like a rod with a nice through action & a bit of spring so you avoid ripping the hook out. I would not use something poker stiff.
Using the right rod, line and hook and you can sometimes bundle them in the net before they even realize what is happening.
Using the right rod, line and hook and you can sometimes bundle them in the net before they even realize what is happening.
Thanks for the input guys.
@John Step.
That sounds like a bargain, and I've found it on Ebay for 12.95! Only thing is I'm a little worried if 2lb tc is a bit undergunned? Fish in the 2 places I've got in mind go to mid-twenty.
@John Step.
That sounds like a bargain, and I've found it on Ebay for 12.95! Only thing is I'm a little worried if 2lb tc is a bit undergunned? Fish in the 2 places I've got in mind go to mid-twenty.
Jim Crosskey 2
Well-known member
Naxian, I think it's important to understand that increases in test curve - lets say upwards of about 1.25lb - are generally about casting further. A 1.25lb tc rod will cope with about 2oz happily, but anything over that - and let's face it modern carping techniques are generally looking at say 3oz leads plus some kind of PVA baiting arrangement - and you're needing a more stepped up rod to cast that comfortably and accurately.
Lots of very big carp got caught on avon-style rods (Richard Walker, Chris Yates etc). In the early days of carp fishing, most of it was done at close range, so the need to cast more than 20 yards wasn't a consideration. However, the advent of bolt rigs - probably more than any other mechanic detail of carp fishing - enabled anglers to fish further and further out, providing their equipment - rod and increasingly larger reels - allowed them to cast the distance.
Ultimately though the issue that I see with what you're intending to do comes down to fish welfare. Let's say you use the rod you've got in mind, you know for a fact that it can deal with all the pressure you can exert on (lets say) 30lb braid. And you wind the reel clutch down tight, because the last thing you want to have happen is for the fish to get in the snags. So now your set up is absolutely nailed on for giving nothing away. To me, what that means is that the very weakest link in the whole set up now is the hook-hold itself. A carp's mouth is relatively soft flesh... something tells me that if you did hook a really big one in those circumstances with the kind of set up I've described - you've got a really good chance of transferring an amount of force to the hook-hold that it just can't deal with. That would worry me at least a little....
Lots of very big carp got caught on avon-style rods (Richard Walker, Chris Yates etc). In the early days of carp fishing, most of it was done at close range, so the need to cast more than 20 yards wasn't a consideration. However, the advent of bolt rigs - probably more than any other mechanic detail of carp fishing - enabled anglers to fish further and further out, providing their equipment - rod and increasingly larger reels - allowed them to cast the distance.
Ultimately though the issue that I see with what you're intending to do comes down to fish welfare. Let's say you use the rod you've got in mind, you know for a fact that it can deal with all the pressure you can exert on (lets say) 30lb braid. And you wind the reel clutch down tight, because the last thing you want to have happen is for the fish to get in the snags. So now your set up is absolutely nailed on for giving nothing away. To me, what that means is that the very weakest link in the whole set up now is the hook-hold itself. A carp's mouth is relatively soft flesh... something tells me that if you did hook a really big one in those circumstances with the kind of set up I've described - you've got a really good chance of transferring an amount of force to the hook-hold that it just can't deal with. That would worry me at least a little....
Great video if you can find it with a guy using a 1.75 rod with 40 braid. John Helgardner I think?? Landing big carp under the rod tip.
People land huge tarpon on 9/11 weight fly rods. Its that bend that does not lock up you want. I'd say 2.5lb would be the maximum for hit and hold, you don't want hook pulls. A spinning rod for Salmon is ideal, not more than 9' would be my suggestion too?
People land huge tarpon on 9/11 weight fly rods. Its that bend that does not lock up you want. I'd say 2.5lb would be the maximum for hit and hold, you don't want hook pulls. A spinning rod for Salmon is ideal, not more than 9' would be my suggestion too?
All of my carp fishing is close range, using a centrepin with an 11ft 1.75tc rod and 12lb mainline. I've turned low 30's from snags and reedbeds where as if I did the same with 3lb rods the hooks would pull. It's all a matter of balance. Plus I find it much more enjoyable fishing this style rather than camping behind buzzers.
Thanks for the input fellas. In the end I think I found exactly what I needed in my armoury. A Pro logic 8ft C.O.M. Raw 2.25lb tc. Only had 3 or 4 fish (to 12lb ish) on it so far, but it feels bang on in the hand. Thought y'all should know.