Trotting help

swizzle

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As some of you will know, I have decided that I would like to learn how to trot a float and this summer is whem I should do it. I have started this thread only for the purpose of getting a few tips, as it stands at the moment the whole thing confuses me. What is the difference between stick floats, chubbers, Avons and loafers? How do you plumb the depth for a swim where depth varies? What the hell is a back shot? What is mending the line? It's all making me feel a bit stupid.

Oh and finally, is there any recommendations on the ideal rod to begin trotting with? :)
 

tigger

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As some of you will know, I have decided that I would like to learn how to trot a float and this summer is whem I should do it. I have started this thread only for the purpose of getting a few tips, as it stands at the moment the whole thing confuses me. What is the difference between stick floats, chubbers, Avons and loafers? How do you plumb the depth for a swim where depth varies? What the hell is a back shot? What is mending the line? It's all making me feel a bit stupid.

Oh and finally, is there any recommendations on the ideal rod to begin trotting with? :)

Firstly, stick floats are usually slim floats better used for shorter trotts and more suited to smooth flowing water and combined with lighter lines although you can get quite large ones. Personally I can't see much point in them and i'd prefer to use a smaller avon or bolo float.
Chubbers and avons can both be used in turbulent water (wire stemmed bolos are good in this type of water) and are better to long trott as they are easier to see. Avons and chubber type flots are usually heavier floats than sticks and don't tend to pull off your trotting line as easy as a lighter stick float. My favourite floats are avon bolos in various sizes as they have long sight tips and hold their lines so much better, infact they're practically all I use.
I never plumb the depth, you'll learn the depths of the river infront of you by simply trotting the float through, if it drags under just keep shallowing off until it doesn't. Then you can fish over depth, up in the water etc etc. If you have a swim with a nice level bed but an odd place where the float is pulled under, to stop this happening you can just hold back slowing your float down which will cause your bait to rise up in the water going over the obsticle and when it's passed that point you can allow it to speed back up again and your bait will sink back down again.

Imo the best thing you can do is to just get your kit together and get out on the bank and learn yourself, it's not difficult. If you know someone who can show you that will be much better than trying to read about it on forums or in book etc.

Just a thought, don't think a large float won't be any good for delicate biting or small fish, even a small minnow will pull a 5 or 6 grame bolo float straight under!
 
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Peter Jacobs

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sam vimes

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Swizzle, you'll no doubt work things out in time. However, a shortcut will be to have someone take you out and show you the basics. Just be aware that they'll show you their way. Be prepared to develop your own way once you've got a start.

If you are in northerly North Yorkshire or South Durham (and are prepared to buy a day ticket), I'll take you out.
 

bobble

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As some of you will know, I have decided that I would like to learn how to trot a float and this summer is whem I should do it. I have started this thread only for the purpose of getting a few tips, as it stands at the moment the whole thing confuses me. What is the difference between stick floats, chubbers, Avons and loafers? How do you plumb the depth for a swim where depth varies? What the hell is a back shot? What is mending the line? It's all making me feel a bit stupid.

Oh and finally, is there any recommendations on the ideal rod to begin trotting with? :)

watch our videos they may help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v04f2KsTgHw
 

mightyboosh

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Do you guys ever use braid for trotting? It was something I'd always planned to try, but never got round to it. Thought something like 4lb Fireline would be ideal, especially on a centrepin.
 

sam vimes

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Do you guys ever use braid for trotting? It was something I'd always planned to try, but never got round to it. Thought something like 4lb Fireline would be ideal, especially on a centrepin.

I do use braid, but it's Powerpro not Fireline. I have tried Fireline but I hated the stuff. Don't go too light when using braid. I found that really fine stuff had a nasty habit of being picked up by the lightest of breezes.
 

trotter2

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I have tried braid a few times on the centrepin but went back to mono.
 

swizzle

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Swizzle, you'll no doubt work things out in time. However, a shortcut will be to have someone take you out and show you the basics. Just be aware that they'll show you their way. Be prepared to develop your own way once you've got a start.

If you are in northerly North Yorkshire or South Durham (and are prepared to buy a day ticket), I'll take you out.

Thanks you all for your replies, especially Sam for the extremely kind offer. I would love to take you up on that, unfortunately however, I am in Hampshire so I couldn't get much further away from you. I do really appreciate the offer though.
 

Mark Wintle

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If you can find your way to east Dorset then happy to give a couple of hours coaching. (I know Hampshire is a big county!).
 

greenie62

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Swizzle - snatch his hand off! :eek:
I doubt that there are many on this forum who could resist such a generous offer! :D

Well done Mark :thumbs:
 

Tee-Cee

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If you do nothing else this year take up Mark Wintle's offer of the free coaching - you'd be mad not to !
All the videos and written word in the world cannot replace ' hands on ' experience and it will save you countless hours of trial and error.....

Yes, you can pick up a rod and reel and give it a go using some of the advice given above and learn as you go along, BUT as with everything in fishing it's the finer points that take time to pick up and in a couple of hours you could pick up more than you'd learn in a year of trial and error !

Hope it works out for you.............................

Good luck !
 

Mark Wintle

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Having fished with Dorsetandchub two weeks ago it was Swizzle's turn today on a section of the Stour near Christchurch. The weather beat us last week but an early start today meant good conditions with a light downstreamer that eventually switched to upstream as a sea breeze. The dace boiled in the swim continuously and I was able to demonstrate and Swizzle practise basic casting/trotting with a couple of different sticks, a Topper float and a waggler, using tares, casters and maggots. We caught lots of dace, a handful of roach plus odd bleak and chublets (nearly a good perch) and I hope he learnt a lot (not just unhooking nettles/undoing tangles). Never mid a couple of hours, six hours flew by and the only downside was attempting to get home on one of the busiest days of the year as far as traffic is concerned.

One observation: since when has 25cm (10") been an acceptable hooklength for ready tied hooks to nylon because the ones he bought had just that? I tie my own and 22" is the norm. Swizzle's next lesson is around buying a Matchman hooktier, some spade-end hooks and Preston Reflo Power line and learning to tie his own.
 

sam vimes

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since when has 25cm (10") been an acceptable hooklength for ready tied hooks to nylon because the ones he bought had just that?

With the rise of commercials, hooks to nylon have been getting steadily shorter in recent years. Much depends on the manufacturer, hook pattern and the market they're aimed at.

However, though I tend to fish little but rivers, if I get lazy enough to buy hooks to nylon, I tend to cut them down. I'm a little unusual in that I've been experimenting with micro-swivels and 5/6" hooklengths for the last few years.
 

bracket

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Having fished with Dorsetandchub two weeks ago it was Swizzle's turn today on a section of the Stour near Christchurch. The weather beat us last week but an early start today meant good conditions with a light downstreamer that eventually switched to upstream as a sea breeze. The dace boiled in the swim continuously and I was able to demonstrate and Swizzle practise basic casting/trotting with a couple of different sticks, a Topper float and a waggler, using tares, casters and maggots. We caught lots of dace, a handful of roach plus odd bleak and chublets (nearly a good perch) and I hope he learnt a lot (not just unhooking nettles/undoing tangles). Never mid a couple of hours, six hours flew by and the only downside was attempting to get home on one of the busiest days of the year as far as traffic is concerned.

One observation: since when has 25cm (10") been an acceptable hooklength for ready tied hooks to nylon because the ones he bought had just that? I tie my own and 22" is the norm. Swizzle's next lesson is around buying a Matchman hooktier, some spade-end hooks and Preston Reflo Power line and learning to tie his own.

Mark. Interesting read. When trotting I only ever tie 12inch hooklengths for my own use which, once connected to the main line would be in the region of 10 inch. Is it the case that you put shot on your 22 inch hook lengths.? By the way we appear to have a mutual friend in Pip Evans from Bere Regis, I seem to have missed your visit to the Drax recently. Suprising, because my Lady reckons I live there. Pete.
 
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