Source of float-making materials?

chavender

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i lent my copy of the floatmakers manuel out ,never did get it back ,i have to rely on my memory ,i really should get another copy myself ,i still have my billy lane and alen haines float books .

i know a couple of pole float makers who use a converted drill press ,too dip blocks of floats into paint tanks (tiny goldfish tanks) ,billy makins used too use a hydralic dip tank ,that was raised up onto 100 upside down floats in a rack ,then when the valve was released the tank would desend at a fixed rate too give a good even coating (fixed at a rate too mate the run speed of the paint) without running of the paint.

as for machining bodys i have a improvised set up ,a bit like a mini lathe ,it has a flexilead drill attachment clampted too a work top ,& a optional rightangle drill head also in a clamp (but un connected ,but free too rotate) and a T bar tool rest made from copper pipes with wooden dowls inside ,fitted too a bit of plank i can also clamp in place.

myimprovisedsetup2.jpg



you`ll notice the mandrel in the chuck ,its made from a old nitting needle (a 10 /4mm) cut down to 4" with the pointed end sticking outwards (about 3") with the saft of it roughed up and reduced too 3mm .the rough area helps too grip the balsa / foam blocks which i`ve pre-drilled too 3mm ,i find the centre point by drawing two lines that crisscross each other the intersept point is the centre .(but i`ve recently found a little gismo too do this ,its only a £2

08154-unimat-centre-finder.jpg



Although i brought a set of mini woodturning tools ,i also make my own tool templates too mimic the shape of the float i want too make (repeatedly) from old tools etc ,i draw around the floats shape onto the tool (a old filler knife in this case )

drawpatten.jpg


then i firstly roughly grind out the shape , on my big grinder

grind.jpg



angling it too cut a 45* cutting edge on the reverse side ,and finishing off with my rotary tool and grinding bit.

goodfit.jpg


then its just a cae of using the tool too cut the block too shape

toolinuse.jpg


i always finish by hand & fine sanding paper for smoothest finish

i have verious tools ,for the job

tools.jpg



But i`m hoping too replace this set up ,soon with a mini desktop lathe and copy tool (unimat classic + copy tool)


unimatcopier.jpg



this should see perfect 1;1 copys everytime .
 

Chriscb

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Hi Paul Morley,

Not sure what 'PM' is, but yes please may I have some peacock quills. Name your price (well, not too high I hope!)

Regards,

Chriscb.
 

Stealph Viper

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Hi Paul Morley,

Not sure what 'PM' is, but yes please may I have some peacock quills. Name your price (well, not too high I hope!)

Regards,

Chriscb.

Hello Paul,

A PM just means a Private Message, if you click on the Members Screen Name, you can send that member a Private Message (PM).
 

George387

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Just to let some of the lads know who were after floats I have started taking orders again but only for a maximum of 5 floats at the moment as the float making is only happening when I have spare time.

The lads who emailled me & I have replied to them they are 1st in the queue, so at the moment I estimate if you want floats you will have to wait around 5 to 6 weeks.

Chavender I want to personally & publically thank you for standing in whilst I was otherwise engaged and helping some of the lads out.

http://traditionalfloats.webs.com/index.htm
 

rawson_perrin

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:D

Posting links to the site on other webpages/forums increases the likeliness of google picking it up sooner - thats the main reason :wh
 

Mark Wintle

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I still don't understand the attraction of floats like these; fantastic finish but diabolical design! I've been making floats for many years for my own use or to give away to friends and don't come close on finish but I'm streets ahead on practical floats to fish with.
 

rawson_perrin

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I understand what your saying, but to many people - including myself - fishing is about using tackle that links to the past and that is less generic than the plastic clear bodied floats sold in tackle shops thesedays.

Take cane rods for example, in most cases they can be heavier, worse for bite indication and easier to break - however they have an 'extra' factor that carbon just cant offer and millions of people prefer to use them.

The bamboo stemed floats may not glide through the water as easy as a modern one, yet there is something nostalgic and 'special' about using floats not too desimilar to ones the pastmasters used.

What is it about the design that you find to be diabolical? We have many users of that are very happy with both finish and practicality.

Cheers
 

preston96

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I understand what your saying, but to many people - including myself - fishing is about using tackle that links to the past and that is less generic than the plastic clear bodied floats sold in tackle shops thesedays.

Take cane rods for example, in most cases they can be heavier, worse for bite indication and easier to break - however they have an 'extra' factor that carbon just cant offer and millions of people prefer to use them.

The bamboo stemed floats may not glide through the water as easy as a modern one, yet there is something nostalgic and 'special' about using floats not too desimilar to ones the pastmasters used.

What is it about the design that you find to be diabolical? We have many users of that are very happy with both finish and practicality.

Cheers

I dont think "millions" of people prefer to use cane rods.........and i dont think they have an "extra" factor over a well designed modern rod.

I like "nice" floats........but if it's something specific to a job i think Marks "ruff" floats would have the edge.

Some of our older float patterns work well in modern situations, some belong in the past with those cane rods! :wh
 

Mark Wintle

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The reason I struggle with the design (of so called 'traditional' floats) is that I've had the privilege of watching and speaking with many truly great float anglers including Billy Lane, Ivan Marks and Topper Haskins. I've been able to realise why the floats they developed were made and designed the way they were, and why they used the materials they used. I've also realised, and they've confirmed it, that really good floats are 'one-offs' which is why the floats commercially produced with the names of these same anglers on the stems weren't always the floats they actually used themselves. Ivan was the best example of this and he reckoned that out of a batch of a dozen floats made by himself that only one might be any good as it would have just the right balance. He said that variations in natural materials such as balsa (even the same stick of balsa) and proportions made that much difference. When applied to commercial floats the only way for absolute consistency is plastic. I use some plastic floats but I much prefer home made floats made from peacock, crow, pheasant, egret, goose quills and balsa (or cane/glass or carbon fibre for sticks) . Having sorted the materials, knowing how the shape on an Avon float for instance affects how it fishes is a complex science that comes from using many variations over many decades. The best ones cast like a dream - hence no cane stem - show bites beautifully - and ride the water according to the conditions -which is why you need to know the difference between a Bristol Avon special (long cast, deep very slow water), a Stour roach float (held back, steady deep water) and something that will tackle Wye chub (big and robust) - three totally different floats.

Lovely whippings look great but copies of ancient 'commercial' floats are crude when it comes to the actual fishing. If you want to see what great float designs look like then let me know and I'll photograph some for you to compare.

Many years ago there was an object lesson in this. The 1963? Fishing float comp was jointly won by Peter Drennan and A N Other. Drennan's floats were not as good when it came to finish but scored much better in terms of design. The same happened years later with Bill Watson whose finish was good but design not so good. Great design carried Drennan forward, and the finish came later. I've got some early Drennan (commercial) floats and they are very nice to look at but too precious to use even though they would still work fine.
 

rawson_perrin

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I completely agree with what you say Mark - continuity must come with machines and plastic, however there's always something nice about something handmade.

Also, for the match or serious angler maybe a 'traditional' style float is never going to be the float of choice, for reasons you have mentioned - but for me, and some other anglers, in certain situations theyre a joy to use. I have many Drennan, Ivan Marks and other styles/makes of floats in my float box also that are regularly used.

I'm not saying our floats will fish any better than any other float, simply offering our website to look at.

I dont think "millions" of people prefer to use cane rods.........and i dont think they have an "extra" factor over a well designed modern rod.

I like "nice" floats........but if it's something specific to a job i think Marks "ruff" floats would have the edge.

Some of our older float patterns work well in modern situations, some belong in the past with those cane rods!
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I think the amount of people that use cane rods around the world will surprise you. Bamboo is huge in America - especially for small to mid sized stream fly fishing.

However, I'd never try to change your opinion on them! Each to their own! :D
 

preston96

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the indifferent crucian

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I can say without a shadow of a doubt that using a cane rod does give one's fishing an extra dimension. It may leave some people cold, but plenty enjoy using old tackle and find it pleases them to do so.

So clearly they DO have an 'extra factor'.



As to floats.......why does everybody insist on the term 'loaded waggler' or 'bodied waggler' for floats that for years were known as duckers, zoomers or onions?

I see no problem with using a handmade float if it works.....it might, too, add that extra dimension. How much better though, if it was your own hands that made it:).
 
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