pole top kits
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Rodney Wrestt
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It makes the power more gradual and less lightly to bump a fish, a bit like using a slightly lighter elastic, it also gives you a better chance with a big fish that charges away without the hook pulling out, although many people are happy to just thread one or two sections.
The only real disadvantage (if it can be labeled as such) is it's harder to turn a fish heading toward a reed bed or other snag when there's more stretch available.
It's a personal choice really, whatever you're comfortable with.
The only real disadvantage (if it can be labeled as such) is it's harder to turn a fish heading toward a reed bed or other snag when there's more stretch available.
It's a personal choice really, whatever you're comfortable with.
I also have found that the above occurs with a elasticated top 3 when you hook into a sizeable fish it is much hard to turn them from snags like stated above "more stretch available".
How ever majority of my pole fishing i used no. 16 and 18 (sometimes no. 20) elastic due to the big fish and the amount of pressure i had to put on them to try and turn them from the likes of reed beds and submerged trees i managed this better with elasticating only 1 power top kit or a short power top 2 kits.
Also with the use of a straight through mainline as apposed to using a separate hook length.
Hope this helps.
Adam.
How ever majority of my pole fishing i used no. 16 and 18 (sometimes no. 20) elastic due to the big fish and the amount of pressure i had to put on them to try and turn them from the likes of reed beds and submerged trees i managed this better with elasticating only 1 power top kit or a short power top 2 kits.
Also with the use of a straight through mainline as apposed to using a separate hook length.
Hope this helps.
Adam.
Jeff Woodhouse
Moaning Marlow Meldrew
Can we clear one thing up?
By top 3 or top 2, do you mean standard top 3s for match fishing up to 12/14s elastic or the power top 2 for heavier carp, but go through the next one down as well making it 3?
Whatever, it all depends on the size of fish you're going to catch. I'm not blowing my trumpet here, but that of an excellent match angler who caught carp to 16lbs on many waters and some from close up against the reeds. Yet, he never used an elastic stronger than a 10.
His trick, like I've said many times on here, as soon as you hook the fish, pull the tip away from the reed/weed, but keep it under the water. The fish will just follow the tip most of the time. It's not bullying them either, you can't on a 10s elastic, but they do seem to behave better with the tip below the surface.
So why bother with going through a power 2 + one more section? Just use the power 2, no more, I do. The match kits will probably handle it even, I landed a 12lber after foul hooking it through the tail and that was on a 12s elastic in a match kit.
However, if your carp are bigger than that, it could be a different matter....
By top 3 or top 2, do you mean standard top 3s for match fishing up to 12/14s elastic or the power top 2 for heavier carp, but go through the next one down as well making it 3?
Whatever, it all depends on the size of fish you're going to catch. I'm not blowing my trumpet here, but that of an excellent match angler who caught carp to 16lbs on many waters and some from close up against the reeds. Yet, he never used an elastic stronger than a 10.
His trick, like I've said many times on here, as soon as you hook the fish, pull the tip away from the reed/weed, but keep it under the water. The fish will just follow the tip most of the time. It's not bullying them either, you can't on a 10s elastic, but they do seem to behave better with the tip below the surface.
So why bother with going through a power 2 + one more section? Just use the power 2, no more, I do. The match kits will probably handle it even, I landed a 12lber after foul hooking it through the tail and that was on a 12s elastic in a match kit.
However, if your carp are bigger than that, it could be a different matter....