Graham Marsden
Editor Emeritus
This is a dedicated thread for discussing article: The Barbel Society Handling Code
The Barbel Society Handling Code
- Thread starter Graham Marsden
- Start date
Stealph Viper
Well-known member
A well written, and easy to follow guide to fish care and fish safety.
Jeff Woodhouse
Moaning Marlow Meldrew
Is that OK, Fred?
That's good Jeff, thanks for spreading the word.
The pictures came out well, you'll have to let me know the technique.
The Barbel Society will be celebrating 15 years next year, and will have a special annual Show in May, details to follow.
The pictures came out well, you'll have to let me know the technique.
The Barbel Society will be celebrating 15 years next year, and will have a special annual Show in May, details to follow.
Why has the society never added to or recognised within it's handling code that barbel might be targeted and caught on the float?
Whenever I read it, whilst it all sounds sensible advice, it's directed only at fishing for barbel with ledger/feeder set ups, strong test curve rods where it makes sense to have an un-hooking mat and huge landing net with you.
There nothing to cater for trotting a stick with a pin or waggler fishing whilst waded out, where the use of a huge net, big test curve rod and unhooking mat are not practical.
I realise the majority of people targetting barbel do so using a more bait and wait approach, but there are some around that like to do it a bit more crabtree style.
At least some acknowledgement of it or better still some advice when using more sensitive set ups would be good.
I've had some decent barbel on the float and as long as the float rod has the backbone for the job, you play the fish sesnibly and use line capable of withstanding the pressure, conditions and type of swim, landing fish that are still full of energy is the norm.
This is especially so when you are waded into 2 to 3 feet of water and you are playing them close in, yet mid river as you can often net them early. Most fish never leave the water and can be un-hooked and released with minimal contact. Smaller fish can be safely cradled without the need for a landing net if you are used to steering fish within arms reach.
Perhaps that's why the BS never seems like it's a society for me as it simply doesn't reconise any other style of barbel fishing.
Whenever I read it, whilst it all sounds sensible advice, it's directed only at fishing for barbel with ledger/feeder set ups, strong test curve rods where it makes sense to have an un-hooking mat and huge landing net with you.
There nothing to cater for trotting a stick with a pin or waggler fishing whilst waded out, where the use of a huge net, big test curve rod and unhooking mat are not practical.
I realise the majority of people targetting barbel do so using a more bait and wait approach, but there are some around that like to do it a bit more crabtree style.
At least some acknowledgement of it or better still some advice when using more sensitive set ups would be good.
I've had some decent barbel on the float and as long as the float rod has the backbone for the job, you play the fish sesnibly and use line capable of withstanding the pressure, conditions and type of swim, landing fish that are still full of energy is the norm.
This is especially so when you are waded into 2 to 3 feet of water and you are playing them close in, yet mid river as you can often net them early. Most fish never leave the water and can be un-hooked and released with minimal contact. Smaller fish can be safely cradled without the need for a landing net if you are used to steering fish within arms reach.
Perhaps that's why the BS never seems like it's a society for me as it simply doesn't reconise any other style of barbel fishing.
Isn't it covered by this very first piece of advice Paul?
1. Always use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress. A minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line should be used, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions.
Knowhere in the advice does it refer to fishing with a ledger of any description
1. Always use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress. A minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line should be used, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions.
Knowhere in the advice does it refer to fishing with a ledger of any description
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Cakey
Well-known member
they were all naughty on the fishomania final then ?
Those targeting them or those fishing for anything that swims, knowing that it will include barbel at some stage.
To a degree, but you wouldn't use that test curve of rod and rarely 8lb line as it wouldn't trip freely off a open faced reel. You might be able to get away with 8lb with pin in a fast flowing swim.
The advice just goes into good detail where the use of a ledgered type set up is concerned, but doesn't give the same level of detail for float fishing. It doesn't acknowledge that a big speci net might not be feesible for example.
If you used one that size whilst waded out, not only would you be unable to hold the thing in the current, but it would drag you and everything else off to the estuary whilst it was parked up ready for when it's required.
If you read it word for word, it assumes you will ALWAYS lift the fish from the water. It assumes the un-hooking process will ALWAYS take place on a matt. Nowhere does it say, if possible, don't even remove the fish from the water. Un-hook it in the net, rest it and release....
Like I say, it's firmly written with ledgering from the bank in mind and doesn't recognise that there's more than one way of fishing for them.
To a degree, but you wouldn't use that test curve of rod and rarely 8lb line as it wouldn't trip freely off a open faced reel. You might be able to get away with 8lb with pin in a fast flowing swim.
The advice just goes into good detail where the use of a ledgered type set up is concerned, but doesn't give the same level of detail for float fishing. It doesn't acknowledge that a big speci net might not be feesible for example.
If you used one that size whilst waded out, not only would you be unable to hold the thing in the current, but it would drag you and everything else off to the estuary whilst it was parked up ready for when it's required.
If you read it word for word, it assumes you will ALWAYS lift the fish from the water. It assumes the un-hooking process will ALWAYS take place on a matt. Nowhere does it say, if possible, don't even remove the fish from the water. Un-hook it in the net, rest it and release....
Like I say, it's firmly written with ledgering from the bank in mind and doesn't recognise that there's more than one way of fishing for them.
Paul, we generalise and hope that gets the message over to all anglers, without steering them in specific directions .
We certainly wouldn't encourage anglers to wade, it does therefore aim at bank anglers.
You will note we don't give details of fishing from a boat either.
After all, it is only general advice about barbel handling, and not meant to cover all the angles of how we go about catching them.
By the way I use a big net, that is also used by wading salmon anglers, it collapses and straps goes over my back until needed.
We certainly wouldn't encourage anglers to wade, it does therefore aim at bank anglers.
You will note we don't give details of fishing from a boat either.
After all, it is only general advice about barbel handling, and not meant to cover all the angles of how we go about catching them.
By the way I use a big net, that is also used by wading salmon anglers, it collapses and straps goes over my back until needed.
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The dreaded Health and Safety!
I am sure more than half of my fishing has been done from within the water as oppose to on the bank. It depends on the river or lake, I know, but there's something a bit special about being in there.
Boat fishing I can understand, but wading seems a step too far if you pardon the pun. There are pegs on the Ribble where you have to wade to land a fish otherwise you would be beaching the fish, because the nearside is shallow gravel for 20+ yards out and hundreds of yards either side of you.
Summer on the ribble can result in thick weed that extends out 25 yards. On some barbel rivers, wading is a must at times even when bank fishing. If wading is ill advised, it's a good job barbel don't much like shallow fast gravel areas then I guess!!
I know the code won't get changed because the BS aren't interested in anything beyond a very set way of barbel fishing. Those that fish that way are probably not the ones in greatest need of hearing the message.
Which folding net do you have Fred, as I have been interested in having one but never seen one that looks suitable.
---------- Post added at 15:09 ---------- Previous post was at 14:49 ----------
BTW I don't see how you come to that conclusion Fred. There’s nothing general about it. It’s specific to one style of fishing and goes into great detail about that one style of fishing.
If the code is not steering people into bankside barbel fishing with big test curve rods, strong line, speci net, unhooking mat, then I don’t what is?
It’s good advice if that’s how you fish, but it is not giving general advice to all anglers that may encounter and handle barbel.
But fair enough, it’s upto the BS if they don’t want to acknowledge or advocate any other way of fishing.
Sorry Paul, but by reading one set of advice you certainly have a very blinkered view of the Barbel Society.
Many of our members, some of them young, still float fish with a centrepin, and some wade.
Some experienced barbel anglers would probably would object to being pointed to a piece of advice on how to handle barbel as well, but they haven't. It is accepted for what it is, general advice to assit those that perhaps may not be used to handling barbel.
My net is Whitlock, looks like this is the same one, but mine has a telescopic handle. I've had it for 8years
http://www.garryevans.co.uk/whitlock-sea-troutsalmon-foldover-net-530-p.asp
---------- Post added at 16:40 ---------- Previous post was at 16:27 ----------
Dreaded Health & Safety does come into it I suppose, but there are too many articles written about ,do it this way and do it that way, which inexperienced anglers take notice of without knowing, that perhaps if you do it that way you should also be aware of the problems that may be experienced as a result.
I think
Many of our members, some of them young, still float fish with a centrepin, and some wade.
Some experienced barbel anglers would probably would object to being pointed to a piece of advice on how to handle barbel as well, but they haven't. It is accepted for what it is, general advice to assit those that perhaps may not be used to handling barbel.
My net is Whitlock, looks like this is the same one, but mine has a telescopic handle. I've had it for 8years
http://www.garryevans.co.uk/whitlock-sea-troutsalmon-foldover-net-530-p.asp
---------- Post added at 16:40 ---------- Previous post was at 16:27 ----------
Dreaded Health & Safety does come into it I suppose, but there are too many articles written about ,do it this way and do it that way, which inexperienced anglers take notice of without knowing, that perhaps if you do it that way you should also be aware of the problems that may be experienced as a result.
I think
I just think it could be tweaked and opened up a bit more, that's all.
Everytime I've mentioned it, people seem to be very protective about it and I can't understand why a little adjustment here and there is such a no no? Any code needs a re-write or an update from time to time.
Here's what I was thinking in any event and I've stayed away from wading for you! Anyway, I'll leave it at that:
Always use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress.
When ledger fishing, we recommend a minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions. With any other method such as float fishing, ensure your tackle is strong enough to comfortably handle a barbel and it will allow you to land it as quickly as possible. Think about where you will be landing your fish before fishing, so that a played out fish can be landed safely and left to recover in the net for a few minutes before being unhooked.
A more powerful rod will require stronger line to maintain balance; a rough guide is to multiply test curve by six to calculate matching line strength. Line does not last forever, so check regularly and replace it if in doubt. Ultra thin braids can cause damage to fish, so should be used with care.
When fishing for barbel, use a large, deep, fine knotless meshed landing net and always allow the barbel a few minutes to recover in sufficient depth before unhooking. If it is necessary to remove the fish from the water, transfer the fish in the net and place the fish on a wet unhooking mat whilst you remove the hook. If you do remove the fish from the water, when you return it allow it a few more minutes of recovery time before release......... etc.
Everytime I've mentioned it, people seem to be very protective about it and I can't understand why a little adjustment here and there is such a no no? Any code needs a re-write or an update from time to time.
Here's what I was thinking in any event and I've stayed away from wading for you! Anyway, I'll leave it at that:
Always use well-balanced tackle, aiming to land your barbel as quickly as possible, but without undue pressure or bullying. Playing fish to exhaustion on light tackle causes unnecessary stress.
When ledger fishing, we recommend a minimum of a through action rod of 1 ¼ lb test curve and eight pound line, with much heavier tackle advisable in snaggy swims or flood conditions. With any other method such as float fishing, ensure your tackle is strong enough to comfortably handle a barbel and it will allow you to land it as quickly as possible. Think about where you will be landing your fish before fishing, so that a played out fish can be landed safely and left to recover in the net for a few minutes before being unhooked.
A more powerful rod will require stronger line to maintain balance; a rough guide is to multiply test curve by six to calculate matching line strength. Line does not last forever, so check regularly and replace it if in doubt. Ultra thin braids can cause damage to fish, so should be used with care.
When fishing for barbel, use a large, deep, fine knotless meshed landing net and always allow the barbel a few minutes to recover in sufficient depth before unhooking. If it is necessary to remove the fish from the water, transfer the fish in the net and place the fish on a wet unhooking mat whilst you remove the hook. If you do remove the fish from the water, when you return it allow it a few more minutes of recovery time before release......... etc.
Stealph Viper
Well-known member
That sounds ok to me as well, but then again, so did the original one.
I don't think there is anything wrong with your train of thought Paul, in fact we have been discussing to need to look and see, if there is an update required, after all it's three years old now.
So, I will certainly take your views on board when discussing the Code with my collegues. It's just that the point comes, and this is the fear, that you can try to cover so many angles, that the aim of the Code becomes lost in the detail.
Thanks for your comments,I use a tag line of Never say Never elsewhere, my mind or should I say our minds, are always open to well thought out suggestions.
So, I will certainly take your views on board when discussing the Code with my collegues. It's just that the point comes, and this is the fear, that you can try to cover so many angles, that the aim of the Code becomes lost in the detail.
Thanks for your comments,I use a tag line of Never say Never elsewhere, my mind or should I say our minds, are always open to well thought out suggestions.
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Not sure it's as easy. Float rods aren't generally rated TC wise like speci type rods tend to be. Line strength will vary depending on the likely size of fish, type of reel, terrain etc and it's more about balancing the diameter of the line with the strength to find something that performs well, but is more than adequate for the job.
Most important thing about the line for me is that I change it after every float session if I've played any fish on the clutch.
I tend to use a 15ft float rod that's sensitive enough for roach and dace, but the middle section will stand up to anything I'm likely to come across. I have no idea how it's rated, but I know it will do the job.
preston96
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Perhaps thats why the BS didn't include it?.......it could be very controversial.....nuff said
I don't see why. Just because something can't be rated or quantified, offer no advice at all?
There are no specifications on net size or unhooking mat size?
It's not the be all and end all and I'm not even sure if giving any min rod and line ratings is ideal.
There are no specifications on net size or unhooking mat size?
It's not the be all and end all and I'm not even sure if giving any min rod and line ratings is ideal.
preston96
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My point was that i asked you for advice and you didn't really give me anything solid but you expect the BS to do so.
OK, i'll put my views.....a 15ft rod is to long, the barbs will play you, why would you need it if you are wading to the trotting zone?
13ft max, prob a 12ft, with a powerful float rod action.......big floats that will take lead, we aint going roach fishing......i would probably go for avon type.
Reel line for float work..........a good modern 5lb min, prob 6 or 7 in some situations.
There we go............money where my mouth is, i'm ready to be ripped to bits :wh
I don't expect them to be specific. Where have I said they should go into that level of detail?
The only reference to rod strength or line is what is already in the code, so I left that in.
I use a 15 ft rod because 90% of the time I fish the waggler and I like having the extra control. Personal preference.