sagalout
Well-known member
Sorry my fault, I missed the fluorescent bit. Stupid boy
Float tips-- colour choice
- Thread starter flightliner
- Start date
flightliner
Well-known member
Good call Alan-- I will knock a few up and give em a try.
IC-- Revell paints are the ones I use, good, the only thing I have noticed is that when the tin is half empty it tends to go off rather quickly so at that stage I use it up as fast as possible--- usually having a repaint of my many pike floats.
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Tee-Cee
Senior Member
Indifferent crucian...I have noticed this 'string' you mentioned in you post-what the hell causes it?
Its like a very fine hair of paint that seems to waft from the end of the float as you move the brush toward the tip-very annoying and,I have to admit,I do seem to lose them sometimes!
I thought it might be aging paint but having bought new the same thing happened again and adjusting the ambient temperature didn't help either....................the thing is I don't recall this with Humbrol paints-only Revell-otherwise Revel are good,great colours and more readily available-in my area...
I will try to get a contact number for Revel and see what they say..
As a matter of interest what air temperature do you(or others) use as a general rule???
I tend to go for warm as from central heating.....thats 20 for me and 25 for the wife!!
Its like a very fine hair of paint that seems to waft from the end of the float as you move the brush toward the tip-very annoying and,I have to admit,I do seem to lose them sometimes!
I thought it might be aging paint but having bought new the same thing happened again and adjusting the ambient temperature didn't help either....................the thing is I don't recall this with Humbrol paints-only Revell-otherwise Revel are good,great colours and more readily available-in my area...
I will try to get a contact number for Revel and see what they say..
As a matter of interest what air temperature do you(or others) use as a general rule???
I tend to go for warm as from central heating.....thats 20 for me and 25 for the wife!!
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the indifferent crucian
Well-known member
Tee Cee, my tackle and workshop is all in what my wife still insists on calling the 'dining room'. It's barely heated and only about 16 in there. I don't know what it is with fluorescent paints...thay are all wierd and problematic. The Revell 'string' seems to happen as you remove the brush from the work, I usually exhale ( OK, swear! ) and this blows it clear of the float I'm painting
Incidentally, when searching the web, it pays to search on 'luminous', too. A staggering ammount of adverts mistakenly call fluorescent paints this, quite wrongly, of course.
The Revell yellow is very good as dusk approaches or when the light levels drop. I sometimes go into the 'dining room' at dusk and am always impressed how well it shows up, whereas the orange tipped float have all but disappeared in the gloaming.
---------- Post added at 13:01 ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 ----------
These are the last floats I did, they show the yellow off quite well.......
Incidentally, when searching the web, it pays to search on 'luminous', too. A staggering ammount of adverts mistakenly call fluorescent paints this, quite wrongly, of course.
The Revell yellow is very good as dusk approaches or when the light levels drop. I sometimes go into the 'dining room' at dusk and am always impressed how well it shows up, whereas the orange tipped float have all but disappeared in the gloaming.
---------- Post added at 13:01 ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 ----------
These are the last floats I did, they show the yellow off quite well.......
A
alan whittington
Guest
Their very nice Mr.Crucian,is there any way to thin your fluorescent paint down slightly,as that might end the 'hair' problem.
Tee-Cee
Senior Member
I tried thinning(allbeit by a minimal amount!)but it didn't work.....perhaps it needs to be 'cut' by a third and coated several times-might try it sometime..
Beautiful set of floats-I particularly like the body colour and tortoise shell effect............BUT will they slide beneath the surface...........
Beautiful set of floats-I particularly like the body colour and tortoise shell effect............BUT will they slide beneath the surface...........
A
alan whittington
Guest
Most definitely not,that doesnt happen anymore.
the indifferent crucian
Well-known member
I haven't found a safe way of thinning modern paints. Without going into past disasters, thinning some of these modern ones actually makes them set.
Sadly my thick old tin of yacht varnish finaly died yesterday..it took two years to get it to that treacley stage.....
The only answer is to pour paint into smaller and smaller containers to exclude the air.
The last 20 floats I have done have had around 20 coats of varnish. That's 400 applications in a fortnight, yet it took the can down only a half an inch.
Little wonder that it went off.
Sadly my thick old tin of yacht varnish finaly died yesterday..it took two years to get it to that treacley stage.....
The only answer is to pour paint into smaller and smaller containers to exclude the air.
The last 20 floats I have done have had around 20 coats of varnish. That's 400 applications in a fortnight, yet it took the can down only a half an inch.
Little wonder that it went off.
Alan Tyler
Well-known member
SH!!!!T! I KNEW there was a reason... I was in one of those cheapo books/stationery places called "The Works" yesterday, and they had, in the kid's paints section, made-up (and, by the feel of them, gone-off) poster colours in those "Chinese Lantern"-type concertina-ing bottles; little fellas that would hold maybe 50ml at a push - I think they'd be ideal for the job. Two packs of four for two quid, I think.
And my beefburgered brain couldn't join the dots. I don't know which is worse, being old and forgetful or being stupid to begin with. I've had more practice at coping with the latter, I guess.
And my beefburgered brain couldn't join the dots. I don't know which is worse, being old and forgetful or being stupid to begin with. I've had more practice at coping with the latter, I guess.
Neil Maidment
Moderator
All good advice (for float tip visibility), I carry several marker pens and will adapt as the days goes on.
Our eyesight capabilities are all so different and mine is **** without glasses, but over the last year or so, I've been experimenting with different coloured/tinted polarising lenses (mainly while stalking trout in clear water). Some make an amazing difference! I'm still playing with it but there is no doubt swapping around as the light/water conditions change can enhance the clarity.
Our eyesight capabilities are all so different and mine is **** without glasses, but over the last year or so, I've been experimenting with different coloured/tinted polarising lenses (mainly while stalking trout in clear water). Some make an amazing difference! I'm still playing with it but there is no doubt swapping around as the light/water conditions change can enhance the clarity.
flightliner
Well-known member
IC- varnish is not a cheap item when making floats, not a lot is used on each float and as you say your tin as started to harden off. A fortnight ago I went into poundland and found that they had it on the shelves so I purchased one and found it to be really good so I have bought another one in case the supply dries up. Get some while you can.
the indifferent crucian
Well-known member
It gets worse!
Today my gilt varnish finally went lumpy too. No problem, I thought, I've just bought some more..all I have to do is strain the gilt out and add it to the new stuff.
So I did, and painted some floats with it OK.
An hour later I see it has separated and gone off. Humbrol have changed their clear gloss varnish chemistry since I bought some late last year, the swines!
It's a shame as well as a nuisance..the old stuff had a green tint to it that looked good on a float after 10 coats. At least the new stuff is still very quick drying, but it's so thin I'll be months painting a float with it to get a hard outer.
I've been using some of the best yacht varnish there is, but you only get to use half a small can before it's gone off ( as happened yesterday ). I think I'll save that for the cane rods and go back to Ronseal
.
Today my gilt varnish finally went lumpy too. No problem, I thought, I've just bought some more..all I have to do is strain the gilt out and add it to the new stuff.
So I did, and painted some floats with it OK.
An hour later I see it has separated and gone off. Humbrol have changed their clear gloss varnish chemistry since I bought some late last year, the swines!
It's a shame as well as a nuisance..the old stuff had a green tint to it that looked good on a float after 10 coats. At least the new stuff is still very quick drying, but it's so thin I'll be months painting a float with it to get a hard outer.
I've been using some of the best yacht varnish there is, but you only get to use half a small can before it's gone off ( as happened yesterday ). I think I'll save that for the cane rods and go back to Ronseal
.
George387
Well-known member
I've been using some of the best yacht varnish there is, but you only get to use half a small can before it's gone off ( as happened yesterday ). I think I'll save that for the cane rods and go back to Ronseal
Nobby
You guys are wasting a lot of money on varnish which goes off after half a tin, Youve probably seen me talk about this before but I switched to a waterbourne lacquer years ago and the finish is better than varnish, less messy than varnish & it doesnt go off after half a tin.You can get it in 1litre tubs or 5litre tubs, Ive had a 5litre tub now for over a year and a half and its still perfect.
Severe use waterbourne lacquer at the bottom of the page.
Morrells - Home - Wood Coatings - Translucent Finishing - Waterborne Lacquers
the indifferent crucian
Well-known member
Thanks George, What's the drying time with these finishes?
George387
Well-known member
Sorry mate only just seen you post, drying time with the lacquer is only a couple of hours, on average I can get 3 - 4 coats a day with no problems or ill effects, unlike varnish which is oil based the lacquer is only water based and dries very quickly
flightliner
Well-known member
George-- is it fully waterproof cos if it is I will have a looksee.
George387
Well-known member
I always apply 7 coats of lacquer to my floats and Ive had ones from when I was 1st shown the product 6 years ago and they are as good today as they were when I first built them.
Ive even refurbished 2 cane rods with it and was told the results were better than using varnish from a couple of experienced rod refurbishers.
I wouldnt use anything else now for any work involving varnish from around the house to my floats, thats how good I think this product is.
Its original use was to lacquer dance floors and pub bar tops. Always go for the severe use stuff I havent tried any of the others. My personal preferences are 10% sheen as thats just enough to give the floats a shine in no more which I prefer.
Ive even refurbished 2 cane rods with it and was told the results were better than using varnish from a couple of experienced rod refurbishers.
I wouldnt use anything else now for any work involving varnish from around the house to my floats, thats how good I think this product is.
Its original use was to lacquer dance floors and pub bar tops. Always go for the severe use stuff I havent tried any of the others. My personal preferences are 10% sheen as thats just enough to give the floats a shine in no more which I prefer.
flightliner
Well-known member
Thank you George.
George387
Well-known member
More than welcome