Fishing a centerpin in the wind...

[soffit]

Apparently one of the reasons the ABU closed face was so successful in the Uk was because match anglers found them useful in windy conditions. These are going to be the most pragmatic of folk but I have to say. unless you are fishing with yer rod hand at full stretch, just forming a small 'O' with thumb and a finger of the other hand close to the reel is very effective to keep the line, in-line It also helps filter out the effects of the line bedding into the line below it. I laid some expensive florocarbon I didn't like as backing. It will be off soon. How much of that 4lb line do I need in a mostly 20 yard swim? I'm not a CP fanatic but I reckon, given my small river I can float or ledger quite effectively without the added expense of another reel.

Ps: got three Power 100's. Total cost £9.45 Just like the centerpin you can't take them for granted but they work.

PPs: Fancy an ABU Closed face but even obvious rubbish never gets below £20 plus post

 

[bankside]

I have 2 pins that I like to use,a Martin Bowler sig with 4.4lb Drennan float fish and a JW Heritage with 7lb float fish,I like to use the MB for trotting and usually put 100yds on straight off the spool.The Wilson Heritage I use for freelining baits into snaggy swims and also for ledgering,use the ratchet for bite indication,again loading 100yd spools.For a 20yd swim you could halve that amount but once you've had a few tangles[even with a line guard]you'll probably need to cut some line free[and dispose of safely]so 100yds works for me.
I believe 1 pin could do it all so no need for anything else.......but then again who do you know who's only bought 1 after using one for the first time....:wh

 

[tigger]

I've been out trotting today and had a strong gusty wind blowing upstream but it was fine. I prefer a pin with no line guard or if it has then I remove it. I used to use a abu 501 years ago before I could afford a pin but in all honesty the 501's not anywhere near as good as a pin...no reel is as good as a pin for trotting if you can use one proficiantly.

If I knew I wouldn't be trotting any further than 20yds then i'd spool up about 40yds incase of a tangle and the loss of a few yds or if I hooked a large fish that may take line.

I always remove my line after every trotting session and bin it. I re-spool my reel just before the next trip. I use bulk spools of sensor which makes it economically acceptable to do this...nothing better than freshly spooled line when trotting .

 

[barbelboi]

Pretty much the same as tigger except I use a different make of line. With too much line on the pin the line will begin to bed in and then may stick when using the flow to set the reel spinning as you trot. If I was trotting 20 yards I wouldn’t put more than 40 yards of line on.
Jerry

 

[jimmybobkin]

I have a couple of old strike right centrepins which I use for trotting and sometimes for close margin fishing and they work perfectly, plus are cheap as chips. I was bought a new shadowland centrepin (cost about a tenner new)as a prezzie and I have to say it is terrible. Line getting caught and tangles galore. I have always wondered how expensive some centrepins are compared to fixed spool reels,(except the afore-mentioned prezzie) which are much more complicated in their construction. I have never used a closed face reel, maybe I should try one.

 

[Sean Meeghan]

I've got a 501 which I picked up for around £16 (plus postage) on Ebay. They are nice reels to trot with, but they aren't the best for playing decent fish on. Modern fixed spools are now pretty much as good as the 500 series for trotting as manual bail arms make the dreaded slack line after the strike a thing of the past.

As an all round trotting reel I like the Rapidex best as I find the caged construction suits me better than an open drum. True pins have a slight "stickyness" that bearing pins don't. This works well in all but the slowest of water.

 

[laguna]

I changed my ABU 501 for a Diawa Harrier 120m when it came out. Best closed face ever IMHO. Still got and use it on stillwater too when silver fishing.

 

[S-Kippy]

I've got a 501 which I picked up for around £16 (plus postage) on Ebay. They are nice reels to trot with, but they aren't the best for playing decent fish on. Modern fixed spools are now pretty much as good as the 500 series for trotting as manual bail arms make the dreaded slack line after the strike a thing of the past.

Very true.Years ago ,before I caught pin fever, I spent 10-12 years doing very little other than trotting with fine lines and a 501. Brilliant...until you hooked a lump when it was a nightmare.The so-called "syncro drag" was rubbish...you had to backwind like crazy & hope for the best.Good job there weren't so many carp around then.

Never understood this thing about fixed spools & striking when trotting. I always struck on an open bail using my finger to trap the line and dropped the bail in by hand as and when. Seemed the obvious thing to do & I dont recall bumping fish as being a problem.

I dont often use my 501's now but whenever I do I'm glad I hung onto them.Still as good as the day I bought them 30 odd years ago.

 

[dnahacker]

I like braid for trotting, I have 2 pins, a Marco cortesi and a youngs bob James super lightweight, both are spoiled with 6lb fireline, I use a couple of feet of reflo powerline ( 0.13), can't beat it, solid connection on very long runs, you feel everything.... Not bumped a single fish, had as small as minnows through to a 13 lb cock salmon on this set up

 

[mick b]

Sean,
Could you please explain your statement "True pins have a slight "stickyness" that bearing pins don't."

 

[barbelboi]

Mick B, IMO pins with ball-races usually have heavier drums and will spin for longer.
Jerry

 

[mick b]

Yes I agree.
Although I have never used a bearing pin, I have watched some very experienced users get tangles while unhooking and re-baiting just because their bearing 'pins had received the slightest tap and started spinning again.

 

[barbelboi]

Yes I agree.
Although I have never used a bearing pin, I have watched some very experienced users get tangles while unhooking and re-baiting just because their bearing 'pins had received the slightest tap and started spinning again.

Can't speak for all but my main pin is the Youngs BJ Light weight, just set the drag lever in those situations - simples.

Jerry

 

[Sean Meeghan]

Sean,
Could you please explain your statement "True pins have a slight "stickyness" that bearing pins don't."

True pins only run really freely when turned on their backs so that the end float screw bears on the end of the pin. You can add a bit of extra resistance by tilting the reel slightly - this is the stickyness I was referring to. When held in the "normal" position they are a lot less free because the bearing surface is then the outside diameter of the pin. I find this much more useable than a bearing pin, but this is only a personal opinion.

 

[tigger]

True pins only run really freely when turned on their backs so that the end float screw bears on the end of the pin. You can add a bit of extra resistance by tilting the reel slightly - this is the stickyness I was referring to. When held in the "normal" position they are a lot less free because the bearing surface is then the outside diameter of the pin. I find this much more useable than a bearing pin, but this is only a personal opinion.

I know exactly what your talkin about and you are right. Personally i like to use a bearing reel or a true pin, I like em all .
I might even get out to use one if this wind and rain boggs off for a few days

 

[soffit]

I like braid for trotting, I have 2 pins, a Marco cortesi and a youngs bob James super lightweight, both are spoiled with 6lb fireline, I use a couple of feet of reflo powerline ( 0.13), can't beat it, solid connection on very long runs, you feel everything.... Not bumped a single fish, had as small as minnows through to a 13 lb cock salmon on this set up

I wonder how this set-up works for the fish... side or bottom hooking could damage them with so little 'give' in the tackle? Not having a pop. just curious what people think.

I catch a lot of my fish in the first 10yds of my swim. Despite 60 year old reflexes I find it best to delay the strike. I give a little flick or just sort of 'Lean the other way'. I quickly learned not to get over-excited... my river is overhung with trees and underhung with all sorts of brambles etc

Seven lovely roach I had to use the landing net on today. Best was almost a pound I think. Parmesan tasting breadpaste... who says Cornish roach are unsophisticated?

---------- Post added at 17:52 ---------- Previous post was at 17:25 ----------

Yes I agree.
Although I have never used a bearing pin, I have watched some very experienced users get tangles while unhooking and re-baiting just because their bearing 'pins had received the slightest tap and started spinning again.

Yer. One of the glories of the pin is you can't 'Fit and forget'. You need to be aware of your tackle at all times. It can be irritating at times but there is nothing to beat holding back a float with no line on the water and feeling a bite as if you were touch ledgering, then, dropping the line on the water and having a total different presentation. Currently I kneel to fish so the the reel just gets dumped on the mat I kneel on, angled so the spool can't move.

---------- Post added at 18:23 ---------- Previous post was at 17:52 ----------

I've been out trotting today and had a strong gusty wind blowing upstream but it was fine. I prefer a pin with no line guard or if it has then I remove it. I used to use a abu 501 years ago before I could afford a pin but in all honesty the 501's not anywhere near as good as a pin...no reel is as good as a pin for trotting if you can use one proficiantly.

If I knew I wouldn't be trotting any further than 20yds then i'd spool up about 40yds incase of a tangle and the loss of a few yds or if I hooked a large fish that may take line.

I always remove my line after every trotting session and bin it. I re-spool my reel just before the next trip. I use bulk spools of sensor which makes it economically acceptable to do this...nothing better than freshly spooled line when trotting .

Your not the only one. Barbbollie seems to have much the same idea. I can see chopping off a few feet but 40 yds or somesuch everytime you go trotting?....

 

[tigger]

Your not the only one. Barbbollie[] seems to have much the same idea. I can see chopping off a few feet but 40 yds or somesuch everytime you go trotting?....

I usually have about 70 or more yards on my reel and yeah, I throw it away after a days trotting. As i've said I use daiwa sensor so for what it costs in bulk spools the price is negligible. I find sensor floats ok when new but after a session or two it does stop floating so well. Also freshly spooled line is always better to fish with, it peels off the spool better and behaves better ...well that's what i've found.

 

[soffit]

Fair enough. I'm too much my mothers son; still can't bring myself to pay to park the car or throw away stuff that is still working. Cut the line just above the float is the best I can manage

 

[matthew barter]

Should have read this thread first before I replied to the other, never mind. It's not perfect but I try to have 100ms on the reel. I just cut the line below the float before I pack up, leave a bit of weight on the line and watch the float go far down the river before "batting" it all back on the reel. Minimal resistance and ready to go next time.
Matthew.

 

[geoffmaynard]

I'm in Tigger's camp for trotting when using mono and change it frequently, if not every trip then almost. But when using braid, it's the reverse. I'll have it on for season after season.