barbelboi
Well-known member
On a similar theme to Mick’s ‘busy boy’ thread I built a rod dryer a few months ago for the princely sum of £4.39 ( the cost of a 220-240VAC 4W 18RPM Synchronous Motor for a Microwave Oven from fleabay). The frame was knocked up from some old bits of MDF shoaled up in the shed with the 'V's' treated to some felt to protect the rod section whilst turning.
OK, not a looker like the expensive professional dryers, but it’s absolutely ideal for all my rod repairs, rings/whipping/breaks/varnishing etc. – just let it run for a couple of hours and it keeps all the epoxy/varnish happily turning at 18RPM for an smooth, even professional finish.
I even repaired my 14’ Acolyte Ultra a while ago after tripping into a hole I didn’t know was there hidden by chest high undergrowth whilst playing a chub on a local stream. The tumble resulted in a snapped butt section a couple of inches from the cork.
As the break was in a proximity that wouldn’t/shouldn’t affect the action I cleaned up the break losing approximately half an inch of the length and formed an insert that I took from the middle section of an old carbon rod that I’d kept for spares for a tight fit (i.e. the mid part of a middle section of an old carbon 3 piece match rod was a similar diameter to the ‘fat’ end of the butt section of the 14’ Acolyte). I cut it to size with about 4 inches of the insert running into the butt with the rest (another 4 inches - that which you see) ready for the rest of the blank to fit over. The fit was very tight and I coated the insert with Araldite regular, shoved it in, and left for 24 hours. Then I whipped the joint and finished with three coats of RodDancer to match the existing.
If it was further along the blank I wouldn't have tried the repair. My view is that it was a clean break by the butt cork on a tip action rod - The only adverse effect I can see is that it will now weigh a tad more than five and three quarters ozs.
OK, not a looker like the expensive professional dryers, but it’s absolutely ideal for all my rod repairs, rings/whipping/breaks/varnishing etc. – just let it run for a couple of hours and it keeps all the epoxy/varnish happily turning at 18RPM for an smooth, even professional finish.
I even repaired my 14’ Acolyte Ultra a while ago after tripping into a hole I didn’t know was there hidden by chest high undergrowth whilst playing a chub on a local stream. The tumble resulted in a snapped butt section a couple of inches from the cork.
As the break was in a proximity that wouldn’t/shouldn’t affect the action I cleaned up the break losing approximately half an inch of the length and formed an insert that I took from the middle section of an old carbon rod that I’d kept for spares for a tight fit (i.e. the mid part of a middle section of an old carbon 3 piece match rod was a similar diameter to the ‘fat’ end of the butt section of the 14’ Acolyte). I cut it to size with about 4 inches of the insert running into the butt with the rest (another 4 inches - that which you see) ready for the rest of the blank to fit over. The fit was very tight and I coated the insert with Araldite regular, shoved it in, and left for 24 hours. Then I whipped the joint and finished with three coats of RodDancer to match the existing.
If it was further along the blank I wouldn't have tried the repair. My view is that it was a clean break by the butt cork on a tip action rod - The only adverse effect I can see is that it will now weigh a tad more than five and three quarters ozs.
