Quick-change connection?

nottskev

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I'm looking for ideas for a barbel rig, but I've put it here as the Barbel section doesn't get visited much, and it's not exclusive to any one species.

At a recent talk, Archie Braddock showed his rigs using short hooklengths. Instead of using a swivel and bead to double as a stop for lead/feeder and a connector for the hooklength, he was using sliding float stops to stop/trap the lead/feeder, then attaching 6" hooklengths via a quick-change connection.

I like the idea for four reasons: you can alter the distance from lead to hook without breaking down or tying a new hooklength on;you can change hooklength in a sec; you can store and carry a bunch of short hooklengths with different size hooks, bait attachments or even with bait already mounted etc more easily, and you can save on expensive braid by using less of it.

The only problem is, I didn't pay attention to what connector he used. So - what would you suggest, in terms of a swivel with a quick-change end? I don't like bead-type things as you can't bed a knot right down on anything wide, and the swivels I bought - ring one side/hook the other have hooks that are too tightly closed and pinch and flatten nylon, if that's what your hooklength is, as you put it on and take it off.
 

108831

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I use a korum one,but guru do a neat small one,incorporating its own cover/shock absorber.
 

mikench

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I hesitate to recommend anything technical to you Kev but for normal float fishing I tie on a cralusso quick change swivel so I can alter my hook lengths and size and type of hook. I may have misunderstood you but these work well and the weight wouldn't be a factor for you.

cralusso quick change swivel - Google Search
 

nottskev

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Thanks all for the suggestions. These are what I had when I was thinking what to use earlier



The ones one the left are the Guru ones you mentioned Alan? Fair enough. They look a bit lightweight for 10 or 12lb line, ( but that could be an illusion) and I don't need the buffer bead as the lead will be stopped further up with float stops.

The middle ones would do, but you have to force the line in the hook and flatten it. I did find a few ESP ones in my kit which have a more "open" hook.

The last option was a simple link, like the one on the right, but then I'd have nothing against line twist.

The Craluso and Drennan ones look like the answer, and a plus would be that I don't have to mess about finding bits of rubber to cover the hook and stop the loop coming off.
 

mikench

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Blimey ! You can get them on eBay but the Drennan and Cralusso versions are better quality. :)

I'm glad I mentioned them.
 

108831

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Thanks all for the suggestions. These are what I had when I was thinking what to use earlier



The ones one the left are the Guru ones you mentioned Alan? Fair enough. They look a bit lightweight for 10 or 12lb line, ( but that could be an illusion) and I don't need the buffer bead as the lead will be stopped further up with float stops.

The middle ones would do, but you have to force the line in the hook and flatten it. I did find a few ESP ones in my kit which have a more "open" hook.

The last option was a simple link, like the one on the right, but then I'd have nothing against line twist.

The Craluso and Drennan ones look like the answer, and a plus would be that I don't have to mess about finding bits of rubber to cover the hook and stop the loop coming off.

Kev,the match boys use the ones on the left with ten pound line for carp,but I use the middle ones for my own barbel fishing,having an anti-tangle tube pushed over the hook to prevent accidental disasters,the reason I didn't suggest this in front of the guru ones is that the tube needs to be on the hook length before you change,so it's not as quick as the guru,I think you might want to buy some an check them,ie stick a hook in a tree stump and pull hard like you would with a barbel,with your confidence sated you could carry on happy with your gear...
 

Philip

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he was using sliding float stops to stop/trap the lead/feeder

I dont want to be a party pooper but if you mean above and below to create a sort of helicopter rig then thats a tether rig. If your mainline breaks above the stops then the fish will be tethered to the feeder/lead.

I know these float stop short link rigs are quite popular at the moment but sliding stops rarely slide as expected. Any sort of stop up the line is a risk.

Sorry...
 

nottskev

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Fair point. So it will be either a couple of stops below to keep it free running, or - I'll fiddle about to see - a slim tail rubber pushed onto the stops with the lead link pushed onto the tapered end might give a bit of self-hooking help and be sure to pull through in the event of a break.
 

S-Kippy

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Call me a fusspot but though I use the Drennan Quick chane swivels a lot for the smaller species I dont trust them for the bigger ones. They are brilliant but to my eye they just dont look robust enough for (say) barbel/carp. The stronger looking ones ( middle of Kev's trio) look strong enough but I just dont trust them for the same reasons Kev mentions AND because I had a hooklink slip off one the other day. Might have been my fault for not making sure it was seated correctly but for bigger fish I like the comfort of a proper knot that I tied meself.

I know that means re-tying if I want to change hooks/hooklink but how long does that honestly take ? I also quite like to re-tie my hook/hooklink during a session as hooks can blunt and hooklinks take on a twist/curl.
 
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nottskev

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It's true that it doesn't take long to tie on a new hooklength. But if you're using short hooklengths, they'll only get shorter if you swap them on and off a couple of times. I'm not planning to go hyperactive, but I do sometimes find I sit with the same bait/hook on just out of laziness, and fancy a quick change option if I can hit on the right rig and bits. Part of the problem - and I do have some bigger ones - is that different baits need a different size hook and a different bait-holder: a bare big hook for lobworms; a loop or lasso for big pellets; a different loop for small boilies or small meat cylinders; a clip for bunches of maggots. And so on. I might be inclined to experiment more if I can swap easily. I think the middle one in my pic might do ok - you can get more open versions, and the one in the pic can be eased open a fraction. With a bit of rubber to close it off, it should -famous last words - be secure.
 

mikench

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I haven't had one fail yet despite catching 12lb carp whilst fishing for roach! I believe that they are designed to be small and strong even though they are tiny and look puny!
 

nottskev

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Spent a week in Budapest once. Came home none the wiser. It's in a Finno-Ugric language family, and most of the ones we're likely to tune into are Indo-European. Food was good, though.
 

John Keane

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I hesitate to recommend anything technical to you Kev but for normal float fishing I tie on a cralusso quick change swivel so I can alter my hook lengths and size and type of hook. I may have misunderstood you but these work well and the weight wouldn't be a factor for you.

cralusso quick change swivel - Google Search

That link doesn’t do anything. I use the Guru ones but you need to constantly check the bead is pushed fully over the link swivel as I’ve had the odd hooklength drop off!
 

108831

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I use the swivel in the middle of your picture,an enterprise rubber shock absorber on top of that,lead arrangement,then I put a rubber stop above that,around 15" up as I found that affective, it definitely pricks them as it nearly always ends up a bit higher up,below the swivel I tie a loop in the hook length,clip it on the quick change hook,slide a Korum tail rubber to cover said hook,down to your chosen hook set up,these swivels have never,ever let me down,despite hard fighting fish in weedy situations.
 

John Keane

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Hardly a vote of confidence John!

Happened twice after I’d had a good scrap from big carp that got into lilies and I got the fish out but the sleeve must have been pushed back by the lilies and left the little crook exposed. A cursory glance after such incidents is all that’s needed to ensure the hooklength is secure.

PS - your link to the Cralusso thingies doesn’t do anything on my iPad.
 
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