Thanks Thanks:  13
Likes Likes:  59
Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 62
  1. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    leafy cheshire
    Posts
    10,637

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Like most of the B lies many refugees think the streets of the Uk are p@ved with gold and that they are better off here. Even the French are puzzled by the desire to cross the channel. I’d rather stay there.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Azide the Stour
    Posts
    3,788

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Going back to the stick float - though I did get a pink inflatable unicorn 5ft long last season on the Stour, gutted and binned - having read the many responses on this thread, my best advice, apart from reading carefully what Pete (Bracket) has to say is to ditch the 'pin, find someone local who can fish a stick properly and have some sessions dace fishing with them on somewhere with a bit of flow and a sensible depth - 4 to 5ft. Several anglers local to me have taken up my offer for lessons on local Dorset waters for this style through FM and all have quickly got the hang of the stick float.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    There
    Posts
    5,122

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    On the broader subject of trotting....................... I do own pins but this week on the Trent I reverted to my fixed spool. I am rusty at trotting but soon got into the rhythm with the fixed spool. When I did a lot of trotting on the Thames it was all fixed spool. I still seem to be able to control and mend and release line on a fS.

    What I am stumbling at saying is that although the pin is enjoyable I think a FS is just as effective. I might even get a closed face reel at some time soon..

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    North West
    Posts
    1,975

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Quote Originally Posted by mikench View Post
    Like most of the B lies many refugees think the streets of the Uk are p@ved with gold and that they are better off here. Even the French are puzzled by the desire to cross the channel. I’d rather stay there.
    Because Sangatte and the Calais Jungle are so homely?

  5. #55

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Jacobs View Post
    Rough guide as shot does vary between manufacturers

    4g will need either 2 x no4's or one BB

    5g takes 2 x no4's plus 2 x no 10's

    6g takes 2 no 1's

    This table might help: Shot conversion chart — Angling Times

    It is best to try and change as and when necessary , , , , , Remember that you can chop and change using equivalents as well . . . . .

    Apologies as I haven't read further yet. But this post had me scratching my head. 4g = 2 x No 4 + 1 x BB (so actually 2 x 0.17g + 1 x 0.40g totalling 0.74g depending on make of shot !!) and then 5g equals 2 x No 4's + 2 x No 10s (so 2 x 0.17g + 2 x 0.02g totaling 0.38g !!). Less than 4g.

    Eh ??????

  6. #56

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Quote Originally Posted by mikench View Post
    Like most of the B lies many refugees think the streets of the Uk are p@ved with gold and that they are better off here. Even the French are puzzled by the desire to cross the channel. I’d rather stay there.
    Most likely I'd be fishing a short dumpy waggler

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    leafy cheshire
    Posts
    10,637

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Surely a 5g float will need 5g to make it cock?

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Azide the Stour
    Posts
    3,788

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Peter thought we were talking about standard small stick floats taking what would have been 0.4 or 0.5 grams not the ten times bigger 4 and 5 gram floats. The original sticks designed and made by Benny Ashurst took 1 BB plus a no. 8 or 2 BB and a no. 8 which, when transfered to the Trent from the canal, became 3 no. 6 or 4 no. 4 plus a no. 6 sticks, which they used to fish on the drop with casters on the artificially heated river.. On the river the anglers didn't bother with less than no. 6 (all lead shot in those days).

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    North Yorkshire.
    Posts
    10,451

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Quote Originally Posted by mikench View Post
    Surely a 5g float will need 5g to make it cock?
    There or thereabouts, depending on the accuracy of the labelling.
    5g would be 3xSSG/6xAA/12xBB + 1xNo4.

    Peter J has definitely read the post as being 0.4g, 0.5g and 0.6g and given appropriate shotting for those.
    Last edited by sam vimes; 17-09-2019 at 18:19.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Dorset
    Posts
    1,139

    Default Re: Shotting for a stick float

    Following this thread through it is apparent the "stick float" that Mark describes (The same ones I used on the Trent many years ago) has now evolved and the term refers to any balsa bodied float attached to a variety of stem materials. The float is now far more versatile and that can only be a good thing. By coincidence, I have recently been making what I call 7 No stick floats. The floats I have made are not things of beauty, but are functional, easy to make and work well.
    The method I use is simple and the only tools required are: a power drill (I use an old Black and Decker over 50 years old)
    Shotting for a stick float-b-d-drill.jpg
    A 2mm drill, 8mm brad point wood drill and various grades of sandpaper. A pin vice is also handy, but not essential. Materials are: 8mm balsa wood dowel and 2mm carbon fibre float stems, both of which are widely available on line. I have an metal jig I made to drill the balsa body's out 2mm, but I couldn't find it, more input for the senior moment thread. I made one from a bit of scrap timber 25mm x 55mm. Drill right through with a 2mm bit, then follow that with an 8mm brad point drill, counter boring to a depth of 15mm. The one I did was pretty much spot on, but it doesn't have to be absolutely concentric, with an 8mm body diameter you have a bit of latitude.
    Shotting for a stick float-jig-8mm-counter-bored.jpg
    Next thing is to then drill the balsa body . I use a pin vice and drill the body to a depth of 15mm, but you can use a power drill,
    Shotting for a stick float-using-jig-pin-vice.jpg
    Once you have done that, glue a 10cm carbon fibre stem into the body , I use araldite. The stems usually come in 20 cm lengths. When the glue has gone off the body will need to be sanded down to your preferred shape. I use this set up to do that.
    Shotting for a stick float-ready-sanding.jpg

    I insert the stem into the pin vice then put the vice into the chuck. This stops the stem from whipping as the drill rotates. Shape the body by hand, using ever finer grades of sand paper and finish by using a strip of plain paper, to produce a polished finish with no furry bits. Once you have the shape and finish you want, seal the body with two coats of cellulose dope. When dry, apply a coat of white undercoat, then the top coats. I use black and fluorescent red. Finish off with a couple of coats of varnish. The finished article will look something like this:
    Shotting for a stick float-7-no-4-stickfloats..jpg

    Nothing to drool over, but eminently usable. Pete
    Casternets

Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •