Shotting for a stick float

mikench

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I plan to go on the river, a shallow one about 2' to 4' and have some 4,5and 6g stick floats. What would be the likely amount of shot needed for these either bulked up or in a string ?

I am hopeless with shot sticking to preloaded floats for most of my fishing. I have other river floats but these are marked and may be more suitable in the circumstances I find myself in.
 

103841

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Do you have a water butt in your garden Mike? I use mine to get the shotting required on my stick floats just right.
 
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Peter Jacobs

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Rough guide as shot does vary between manufacturers

4g will need either 2 x no4's or one BB

5g takes 2 x no4's plus 2 x no 10's

6g takes 2 no 1's

This table might help: Shot conversion chart — Angling Times

It is best to try and change as and when necessary , , , , , Remember that you can chop and change using equivalents as well . . . . .
 
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103841

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Split shot

8g
6 x AAA
*
2SSG
3.2g
4 x AAA
*
LG
3g
*
*
LSG
2g
*
*
SSG
1.6g
2 x AA
*
AAA
0.8g
2 x BB
*
AB
0.6g
2 x No1
*
BB
0.4g
2 x No4
*
No1
0.3g
3 x No6
*
No3
0.25g
2 x No6
*
No4
0.2g
3 x No9
*
No5
0.15g
2 x No8
*
No6
0.1g
2 x No10
*
No8
0.06g
2 x No11
*
No9
0.05g
*
*
No10
0.04g
2 x No12
*
No11
0.03g
3 x No13
*
No12
0.02g
2 x No13
*
No13
0.01g
 

flightliner

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S63s suggestion is a good one .
Many floats have suggested shotting marked on them but are often way off the mark.
 

barbelboi

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For the size of float/depth Mike think 1 x no 4 for each foot of depth - unless the flow is very strong then up size to compensate.............
 

Mark Wintle

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Are you sure these are 'stick' floats, Mike? 4 grams is 10 BB which is way outside normal stick float size. A light stick would take 3 no. 4, a medium one 5 no. 4 and a heavy one 7 no. 4. Do you have a picture?
 

bracket

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Mike. For 95% of my river fishing I use a stick float, because that is what I like to do. There have been numerous threads on this subject and the only real conclusion was that everyone has their own take on it. This is mine. I work on a rule of thumb, one No 4 shot per foot of water, in a medium paced current. So for a 4 foot swim, a shot load of 4 to 5 No 4s would be a good starting point. Using PJ's shotting chart, that would be around a one gram float. That said I would actually use only No 6 and No 8 shot on the line. I prefer to have several shot on the line to allow for permutation. If you shot up with a a couple of heavy bulk shot and a couple of droppers, that is a simple rig which will easily work, but gives you very little option to do anything else. A float set up with say, 6 No 6 and 4 No 8 will give you a variety of possibilities. That's just my opinion. I work on the premise that to begin with most fish will be in the bottom third of the depth. When using a 6 No 4, 4 No 8 float I would put a No 8 dropper shot 8 inch from the hook, with another 6 inch above that, and 6 inch above that I would start a bulk shot with 1 No 8 (This No 8 gives you the option to move it down and have 3 droppers x 4 inch apart, rather than 2 droppers x 6 inch apart, if needs be) the remaining 6 No 6s I string shot, half a inch apart from the third No 8 shot. This is a personal preference, you can bulk them together if you wish. Finally, the last No 8 shot goes tight under the float stem, as a depth marker. Over riding all this is the need to put your float where the fish are, as S-Kippy says, don't fish too light. I attach my floats to the line with 3 rubbers, which allows me to quickly change the float. If I needed to cast further out, on a steady flow, I would change to a heavier float, leave the down the line shots as they are and add the extra lead needed to cock the float, directly under it (with the No 8 depth marker). Hope you can make sense of this. Pete.
 
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mikench

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Do you have a water butt in your garden Mike? I use mine to get the shotting required on my stick floats just right.

I don't John but I do have a very deep bucket from beer brewing days. I will use that. Thanks to all contributors.

The floats are Woodys with a wire stem and have the figures 4,5 and 6 g on the side. I have a couple of similar Maher floats which say bolo on them. I'll post a pic.

View attachment 7528View attachment 7528
 
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nottskev

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3,4 or 5 no4 sounds big enough for what you described, Mike. River Dane, by any chance?

Splitting the shot into smaller ones is the way to go.

It can be a bit fiddly to put lots of small shot on on the bank, especially if the set up is new to you. A good way around this is to make up some rigs at home on 6 or 7 feet of line, put the shot on and store it on a winder - the sort pole anglers use. If you can attach a hooklength loop to loop, and I'm assuming you do that, you can attach your ready-made rig in the same way via a loop on the end of the rig and a loop tied in your reel line.

These are about the size that would suit the Dane or a similar small river



This would also give you some back-up rigs in case you get tangles etc.
 

mikench

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I can do loop to loop on a main line and a hook length but how do you do the same with a float and shot attached or am i being dense?
 

wetthrough

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I have these Mike:
stick_floats.jpg

Most of which there are two of so unless we go decorating the trees with them we should be OK - assuming they're suitable.
 

mikench

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I think the penny has dropped and I have a few like that so we'll give it a go. I can now tie a large loop on the mainline which I think thenpasses throughout the smaller loop on the float. I hope so .
 

S-Kippy

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I think the penny has dropped and I have a few like that so we'll give it a go. I can now tie a large loop on the mainline which I think thenpasses throughout the smaller loop on the float. I hope so .

That's it...exactly the same as putting a hooklink on l2l. Call me a fusspot but I never do this...I dont like any kind of join above the hooklink. Its just another knot(s) that might fail. Straight through to the hl every time for me.
 

steve2

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Call me out of touch with modern methods but.
My way of fishing a stick or any float is to me quiet simple. Put the float on the line add enough weight the cock it and cast out. I never have been one for fancy rigs.
Does anyone really know how his or her fancy rigs look or act in the water? I have seen some lovely diagrams but they don’t mirror true life.
 

103841

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I plan to spend a few hours trotting for roach in the next few days and will be using a heavier float than the last time.

My favoured swim is under a tree and even with an11ft Matchpro I’m unable to bring the rod to a vertical position, it was quite windy and I was having all sorts of grief just attempting to swing in the rig, must have looked a right numpty trying to snatch at a line flying in the wind.

Hopefully the extra weight will make the difference.

 

trotter2

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Mike. For 95% of my river fishing I use a stick float, because that is what I like to do. There have been numerous threads on this subject and the only real conclusion was that everyone has their own take on it. This is mine. I work on a rule of thumb, one No 4 shot per foot of water, in a medium paced current. So for a 4 foot swim, a shot load of 4 to 5 No 4s would be a good starting point. Using PJ's shotting chart, that would be around a one gram float. That said I would actually use only No 6 and No 8 shot on the line. I prefer to have several shot on the line to allow for permutation. If you shot up with a a couple of heavy bulk shot and a couple of droppers, that is a simple rig which will easily work, but gives you very little option to do anything else. A float set up with say, 6 No 6 and 4 No 8 will give you a variety of possibilities. That's just my opinion. I work on the premise that to begin with most fish will be in the bottom third of the depth. When using a 6 No 4, 4 No 8 float I would put a No 8 dropper shot 8 inch from the hook, with another 6 inch above that, and 6 inch above that I would start a bulk shot with 1 No 8 (This No 8 gives you the option to move it down and have 3 droppers x 4 inch apart, rather than 2 droppers x 6 inch apart, if needs be) the remaining 6 No 6s I string shot, half a inch apart from the third No 8 shot. This is a personal preference, you can bulk them together if you wish. Finally, the last No 8 shot goes tight under the float stem, as a depth marker. Over riding all this is the need to put your float where the fish are, as S-Kippy says, don't fish too light. I attach my floats to the line with 3 rubbers, which allows me to quickly change the float. If I needed to cast further out, on a steady flow, I would change to a heavier float, leave the down the line shots as they are and add the extra lead needed to cock the float, directly under it (with the No 8 depth marker). Hope you can make sense of this. Pete.

I can't really add much to what has been said already , the above is good solid advice take it.
 

S-Kippy

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My eyes were opened to the advantage of a bit of extra weight years ago on the Kennet. There was a bit of pace on and I just couldn't keep my float on line. The bloke above me was using a big chubber with about 2-3 swan down and he was running it round the far bank as sweet as you like...float never moved off line when he mended even at distance. I was getting the odd fish but he was catching steadily...he had some lovely roach topped by a 2lb + fish.

I never got caught out like that again. Trouble was I grew up on small, gentle paced rivers and flowing canals where a "heavy" float was a 6 x no 4 stick. No good on deeper rivers with a bit of flow.

I miss the Kennet terribly but its a shadow of its then self, full of signals and back then you could safely leave your car and it would still be there ( untouched) when you returned. Not any more.
 
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