Photo lighting

[Graham Marsden (ACA)]

I need some indoor lighting (not flash) to light up fairly small objects. I don't want to spend a fortune as it's mainly for a one-off job but will be used occasionally after.

What's the best I can get on a pretty small budget?

 

[The Monk]

hahahahahahahaha small budget

 

[BAZ (Angel of the North)]

For small objects.
Would some kind of an ordinary spot light do the job with a silver foil background to bounce the light off? I done this once at a camera club to minimise or fully get rid of shaddows or darkspots.

 

[Graham Marsden (ACA)]

This Heath Robinson set-up is what I'm currently using.

On the left is a standard light shade covered with silver foil that shines into a mini pop-up tent I bought from a photographic dealer. Opposite the lighted side, on the inside, the tent is covered with a reflective material to bounce the light back.

In theory it works well (see this shot of a plummet pictured in the tent), and for the Net it's plenty good enough. But I've got to do a fair number of close-up shots for a book due out later this year and the lighting just isn't strong enough.

I need a better, stronger light to shine into the tent and I'm not well up on photo lighting and need some advice from someone who knows about such things.

 

[Terry Comerford]

This looks interesting
http://reviews.ebay.com/Basic-Lighting-for-eBay-Photography_W0QQugidZ10000000000101054

 

[John Adair]

If you don't get the answer you're looking for here, try Strobist,

 

[Matt Brown]

Graham, I would shoot in RAW and post process everything in Photoshop.

Here's a picture of some sunglasses that I took for a website. I used a stool, a sheet of paper, the light from a large window, a tripod, greycard, manual exposure, slow shutter speed and remote. The post processing probably took less than 2 minutes.

http://www.delticmedia.co.uk/graphics/product-photography-img1.jpg

 

[Cakey]

Graham do you want to borrow my ring light (homemade)its 12 ultra bright leds switchable between 3,6,9 or 12 depending on light needed or for about ?20 could make another .
it fits on my lens hood (canon)
Im in the middle of making another with ultra violet leds to see what effects I get but thats untested as yet.

 

[Graham Marsden (ACA)]

Thanks all for the excellent tips.

Matt, I've got no problem producing shots for the web but for a book it's a different matter altogether. As you know, no matter how good the shot you're still always viewing at 72dpi on a monitor.

For the book I have to shoot in RAW and then convert to TIFF at 300dpi, each file is about 30mb. I'm not allowed to crop or digitally alter the shots in any way. I'm conversant with (and already using) a tripod, slow shutter speed, etc, but have little knowledge of studio lighting. Thanks for the daylight tip, I'll certainly give that a go.

Cakey, thanks a bunch; I'll email you.

 

[Matt Brown]

Graham, I know the shot is only a small image and is heavily compressed for the web, but the original would stand up for use in a book or catalogue (if you ignore the reflections!).

Before processing, all the minor faults and scratches of the product can be seen, but post processing should spruce things up.

My first goal would be to make the background all white so I'd muck around with the levels. Then I'd use the eraser tool to remove any remaining background blemishes. The most labour intensive job would be to touch up the object, mainly using the Clone Stamp tool.

The problem I've had is extreme shadows. I simply need more light sources/reflectors, or trying to shoot large objects.

I would have thought you'd be able to achieve professional results using your lightbox.

 

[MarkTheSpark]

Graham
The main fault with your set-up is the directional tungsten light which appears too small.

You need to get some distance between the lamp and the light tent, and invest in a second lamp. I would go for two cheap contractor's lamps from ScrewFix, on stands. These look great, or you could get two 500w doubles for ?40 - just bear in mind power consumption and the heat tungstens chuck out. You'll cook yourself in a small room! Whatever you use, you'll have to make a colour correction on your camera or afterwards in Photoshop.

Assuming the size is OK, the light tent you have is OK, but there are loads of cheap and good ones on ebay.

But I have to say I'd be tempted to spend a few quid on the 180WS flash heads from the Far East, advertised constantly in ebay (see item 110104152296 currently). Get the double pack with stands and softboxes and you won't need the light tent AND have a much more versatile set-up.

 

[Graham Marsden (ACA)]

You're all being a great help, so thanks for that. I'm considering all my options.

This set-up that Cakey gave me a link to looks very promising, and closer to the amount I want to spend.

Although I only want the lamps, not the tent.

 

[MarkTheSpark]

?80 v ?130 for the flash set-up, Graham? I must say the daylight-balance bulbs look like useful lights but they are only a 150Watt equivalent, I think. That will leave you with some long shutter speeds if you want to maintain depth of field.

The flash heads will be enough to light most items at f16 and your flash speed, usually 250th - no tripod required! And you can use your existing light tent.

Honestly, Graham, I'd lash out the extra ?50, and the lights you get will be good enough to shoot pics of a new bedchair if required.

 

[Chris Hammond ( RSPB ACA PAC}]

Are you shooting with your D200 Graham? If so you can use any type of lighting and select the corrective mode on your camera can't you? I'd have thought that opens up the opportunities for non specialist light sources

I'd go along with the window light tip too. Of course you are limited to days where the light is intense enough, but youy can balance it out and iron out any shadows very easily with a couple of aptly positioned white cards. I don't think you can whack natural light if you can use it.

 

[amywoods]

Graham
The main fault with your set-up is the directional tungsten light which appears too small.

You need to get some distance between the lamp and the light tent, and invest in a second lamp. I would go for two cheap contractor's lamps from ScrewFix, on stands. These look great, or you could get two 500w doubles for �40 - just bear in mind power consumption and the heat tungstens chuck out. You'll cook yourself in a small room! Whatever you use, you'll have to make a colour correction on your camera or afterwards in Photoshop.

Assuming the size is OK, the light tent you have is OK, but there are loads of cheap and good ones on ebay.

But I have to say I'd be tempted to spend a few quid on the 180WS flash heads from the Far East, advertised constantly in ebay (see item 110104152296 currently). Get the double pack with stands and softboxes and you won't need the light tent AND have a much more versatile set-up.

Hi all, would two of these lamps work ok? In a similar predicament and want to make sure i get it right..
LED Rechargeable Work Light 20W 1400lm