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polarized camera's
- Thread starter Matty C
- Start date
M
MarkTheSpark
Guest
Perhaps another explanation of polarised light would be helpful.
A linear polariser cuts glare on one plane - could be horizontal or vertical. Think of it like one of the 'venetian blind' traffic light filters which doesn't let you see the light from another lane but if you're right in front of it is perfectly clear.
Water is horizontal, therefore on one plane. So with a linear polariser you can cut the glare right across the surface, and right across the field of view.
A circular polariser could be imagined as concentric rings, polarising the light from every plane, e.g. at the top and bottom, horizontal light but, and this is crucial, at the sides in the vertical plane. Therefore any reflection from the water surface at the edge of the field of view, being on a horizontal plane, won't be cut. In other words, only the reflection in a kind of vertical streak through the centre of the frame will be affected by a circular polariser.
A linear polariser cuts glare on one plane - could be horizontal or vertical. Think of it like one of the 'venetian blind' traffic light filters which doesn't let you see the light from another lane but if you're right in front of it is perfectly clear.
Water is horizontal, therefore on one plane. So with a linear polariser you can cut the glare right across the surface, and right across the field of view.
A circular polariser could be imagined as concentric rings, polarising the light from every plane, e.g. at the top and bottom, horizontal light but, and this is crucial, at the sides in the vertical plane. Therefore any reflection from the water surface at the edge of the field of view, being on a horizontal plane, won't be cut. In other words, only the reflection in a kind of vertical streak through the centre of the frame will be affected by a circular polariser.
T
The Monk
Guest
If the first choice of doing manual focussing, am I right in assuming the picture quality will be the same when I put the pic on the computer as it will be while looking through the lense to get the pic, or will there be a differance, enough to ruin the pic ? obviously I can sharpen or soften any pics on photoshop if only minor differances, but could it ruin the pic if using manual focus and getting it only a smidgen out of focus ?
usually on manual you have a through the lense guide which tells you when you are in focus, with some cameras this is a red light, we used manual, focus cameras for years without any problems. Personally I would opt for the Coking system using square filters which just slot into a holder on the front of a camera, I`ve used these for years without any problem, you just manually turn the filter for the best polarising effect
usually on manual you have a through the lense guide which tells you when you are in focus, with some cameras this is a red light, we used manual, focus cameras for years without any problems. Personally I would opt for the Coking system using square filters which just slot into a holder on the front of a camera, I`ve used these for years without any problem, you just manually turn the filter for the best polarising effect
Bryan Baron 2
Well-known member
True monk i use these also. Can still be used with the auto focus if you use a tripod. Focus without the filter then add the filter. Rotate filter till you get best result. I used the larger filters as i obtained these to work with my Hasselblad and 35mm Nikon's
T
The Monk
Guest
I got rid of my Blad a few years ago John, great cameras which i used for years but so much messing about, especially when digital came out, I had a 503
Bryan Baron 2
Well-known member
Mines a 500c/m old but works fine once you get use to it. have not used it in years now.
C
Cakey
Guest
last time I used my blad it worked out at 50 times dearer than using my digi !