Legering on rivers for pike

[pikepro1]

Could anyone run through their approaches for legering on rivers for pike please?

I use a standard running pat rig with a front alarm and drop off indicator on stillwaters. Would this be suitable for rivers?

many thanks

 

[geoffmaynard]

Depends on the river and what state it's in. If it's a slow flow and not too powerful then it can work - but personally I use a float paternoster for most river piking and don't bother with alarms

 

[jimlad]

Float paternoster for me too. Don't be shy, use big mackerel floats or something to counter any flow. There's a lot of hidden snags in my local rivers and I find float fishing avoids them more often than ledgering


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[keora]

Could anyone run through their approaches for legering on rivers for pike please?

I use a standard running pat rig with a front alarm and drop off indicator on stillwaters. Would this be suitable for rivers?

many thanks

The rig you suggest would be suitable for pike fishing in rivers, On small and medium size rivers I prefer using a simple sliding float rig for pike. It can be set up quickly, you don't need to use two rod rests, bite detection is as good as, if not better than legering.

 

[pointngo]

I agree with Keora.. a simple inline float rig with a small semi-fixed lead suits most close to medium distance fishing on rivers. Just change the lead weight to suit flow and depth.

If you do ledger then use an uptrace and a lead clip (so you can lose the lead if broken off) if casting upstream as your main line will be running past the trace and bait so could be bitten off.

 

[terry m]

For me either the float paternoster or the normal float with semi fixed lead are my river tactics.

I almost never leger on rivers. When using the normal float method and fishing on the bottom try not to fish more than about 4 inches over-depth then bite indication will be fine.

 

[pikepro1]

Thanks for replies.

I'm in the BAA and would mainly be fishing the warwickshire avon and occaisionally the severn.

I was considering legering so I wouldn't have to worry about varying river depths.

 

[jimlad]

Varying rig depths is very easily done and takes seconds on the bank. Using a sliding stop know or (my preference) a couple of drennan grippa stops. Flick the float out and see what happens. Bring it in and alter depth. If your over depth it will lay flat, and you can see from the position of the stop how much over depth. Simply adjust accordingly by sliding and bobs your uncle.


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[pikepro1]

Perfect thanks for the help!! weight on the bottom?

 

[jimlad]

Depends on the flow and weight of float! 1 to 2 oz usually


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[pointngo]

a benefit from using the float and having to check depths in every swim is that you learn the river better and see if there's anything common between the best swims. You can then look for those features on similar stretches.

best advice for fishing rivers is to keep mobile and fish all the fishable swims on your stretch(es) until you find those that regularly produce. It doesn't take long for a pattern to emerge.

 

[jimlad]

Spot on that! You find a few surprised when altering depth. Some very deep holes you didn't expect!

And absolutely, I move every twenty minutes or so if I haven't had any action


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[pikepro1]

Cheers lads! Will be defs changing my approach!

also has anyone fished Watermark fisheries? while the rivers are up and coloured I've been looking for potential stillwaters and stumbled across this place.

 

[keora]

Perfect thanks for the help!! weight on the bottom?

For a medium sized river I use a Drennan pike float taking about 8 gm of weight. I don't need any more weight on this type of river because I don't have to cast far and usually I get takes a few yards from the bank. I fish with the bait, but not the weight, resting on the river bed.

On bigger deeper rivers (eg the Yorks Ouse, which can be 15ft deep in places) I use a much bigger float, taking about 20 gms or even more. I'll often fish over depth with the weight dragging along the river bed as the rig swings into the margins, and then stops.

The weight I use is just cheap drilled bullet threaded on the mainline, which is braid. Pike seem willing to pick up a deadbait and swim away dragging the weight and the float, provided the wieght isn't too big. If I used heavy weights of 30 gms ( 1 oz) upwards, I would use a running paternoster.

 

[geoffmaynard]

The weight I use is just cheap drilled bullet threaded on the mainline, which is braid.

You should be a bit careful with this. Cheapo drilled bullets can easily fray the mainline and weaken it - especially with braid. Do some tests and you'll see what I mean.

---------- Post added at 11:33 ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 ----------

Better to use more expensive ones which are sleeved with a plastic liner

 

[tiinker]

You should be a bit careful with this. Cheapo drilled bullets can easily fray the mainline and weaken it - especially with braid. Do some tests and you'll see what I mean.

---------- Post added at 11:33 ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 ----------

Better to use more expensive ones which are sleeved with a plastic liner

You can line them out with rig tube or silicon as they do with olivettes.

 

[keora]

You should be a bit careful with this. Cheapo drilled bullets can easily fray the mainline and weaken it - especially with braid. Do some tests and you'll see what I mean.

I've used drilled bullets for about 15 years and I've never had one fray the mainline.

 

[mick b]

River Pike.....damn nuisance you mean...grrrr!!

Only kidding, its just when they invade my Roach swim..mg:

My standard rig goes like this....
Cheapo cigar float, the type sold for sea fishing, Roberts sliding bead, swivel and trace.
Onto the bead add a section on light mono and hang whatever weight you need onto that, lengthen the mono if you want a paternoster, short if you want to swim the float.

For snaggy swims I use old nuts or bolts, or bits on concrete tied on the light mono and sections of dried and varnished Bullrush stem with rubber bands as floats.

I never go out to far, much preferring the 'cast out and drift into the bank' method.
I actually know the lie of a 30+ and its less than a foot out from an old bankside stump..

These days I much prefer Roach and Chub to Pike, perhaps its something to do with age, tho I doubt Derek will agree

 

[Chris Hammond ( RSPB ACA PAC}]

You should be a bit careful with this. Cheapo drilled bullets can easily fray the mainline and weaken it - especially with braid. Do some tests and you'll see what I mean.

---------- Post added at 11:33 ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 ----------

Better to use more expensive ones which are sleeved with a plastic liner

Better still (imho) saw a groove half way through any grade of drilled bullet with a hacksaw and find a softish plastic/silicon tubing that will pull into the groove reasonably tightly with a little pressure. Feed silicon tubing of a slightly longer length than the bullet's diameter onto your line or trace and pull the pre-cut bullet onto the silicon. (If you require more than one bullet then obviously a longer length of tubing.) You should be left with a free-running or if preferable semi fixed 'lead' (Depending on the gauge of hacksaw cut or tubing chosen.) and there's no wear on the line/trace wire and in the event of snagging you simply ditch the cheap bullet.

 

[terry m]

Using a 1/4" drill bit to very carefully countersink each entry hole of the drilled bullet will ensure that any sharp edges are removed.