fluorocarbon mainline!

mark brailsford 2

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I am seriously thinking of trying the above line for river fishing this season to see if it will give me a slight edge, mainly for its ability to sink properly.
I have been told that the best one to use as a main line is Fox Illusion as It is quite robust and fairly supple!
What would you guy's recommend? Or is it a bad idea using it on the river?

Thanks
 

dezza

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The nearest I have got to using fluorocarbon as a main line is using Kryston's Krystonite which is fluorocarbon coated.

I have taken quite a few Trent barbel using it.

I would be interested to learn how you rate this line Mark. How much does it cost?
 

sam vimes

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Mark,
is it safe to assume that you mean to use it for legering? If so, why does it matter that it's a fast sinking line? Even a genuine floating line can be happily used when legering on a river (look at all those that use PowerPro Braid). The real advantage of fluro's fast sinking properties is when slack lining on a stillwater.
Another thing to consider when using fluro is the composition of the lake/river bed. If it's a rocky/stony bottom, I'd think twice about using fluro as a mainline, its abrasion resistance is poor. To give you an example, I wouldn't touch fluro as a mainline with a bargepole for my forays to the Trent or Swale. To my mind, it's a distinctly bad idea to use fluro as a mainline on a river, especially the rivers I tend to fish.
 

mark brailsford 2

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Mark,
is it safe to assume that you mean to use it for legering? If so, why does it matter that it's a fast sinking line? Even a genuine floating line can be happily used when legering on a river (look at all those that use PowerPro Braid). The real advantage of fluro's fast sinking properties is when slack lining on a stillwater.
Another thing to consider when using fluro is the composition of the lake/river bed. If it's a rocky/stony bottom, I'd think twice about using fluro as a mainline, its abrasion resistance is poor. To give you an example, I wouldn't touch fluro as a mainline with a bargepole for my forays to the Trent or Swale. To my mind, it's a distinctly bad idea to use fluro as a mainline on a river, especially the rivers I tend to fish.

Yes Sam,
I know it supposed to have poor abrasion resistant, but it ability to sink would benefit not having to use back leads behind the rig, the fox stuff is supposed to be really tough though.
 

sam vimes

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Yes Sam,
I know it supposed to have poor abrasion resistant, but it ability to sink would benefit not having to use back leads behind the rig, the fox stuff is supposed to be really tough though.

As I said, I can well understand that with regards to slacklining on a stillwater, I can't see the benefit on a river when you can't effectively slackline when legering, at least not in a style that would require the use of backleads with alternative types of main line.

Another point I forgot to mention. Pure fluro as a mainline is a complete PITA when it comes to casting. It's one of the reasons why some of the carp fellas use big pit reels and rods with butt rings you can almost fit your head through!;):D
 

Sean Meeghan

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Are you thinking of using fluoro because of its sinking properties or because of its (supposed) invisibility in water Mark?

If you're looking for a really good sinking line then try Kryston Snyde - absolutely bombproof, but it aint clear.

If you want a clear sinking line then Krystonite fits the bill. It's not my favourite line, but many people swear by it.

Maver Jurassic is a superb line with a good strength/diameter ratio, but it's nearly black.

One line that I've been trying lately that looks to have real potential is Dip Chromium Pro. It's clear, it sinks and it has low diameter for its breaking strain. You can get it from Italia Fishing on Ebay. In my experience it just hits the quoted breaking strain when knotted, but you can buy your usual diameter and take adavntage of a greatly increased breaking strain, or go half way and get a reliable line with a slightly reduced diameter.

My own view is that a low diameter line (for its breaking strain) offers a few advantages when river fishing and is worth trying to see if you get on with it.

The stiffer fluoros have excellent abrasion resistance, but are poor casters because of their stiffness. To be honest I've not used the softer fluoros because of what I've heard about them
 

chav professor

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I just don't like flouro for river fishing. I use flourocarbon x-line for carping because its tough, good abrasion properties and sinks like a stone - great for slack lining.

Go against the grain, challenge convention and take the risk of going for a 12lb reel line in plain old fashioned mono..... Initially in light of loosing big river carp, the step up to 12lb line is now my mainstay chub line of choice - even in crystal clear water! Even roach are not wary of the stuff..... its the resistance that is the issue. I think its like matching the line to the bait.... A big bait like a whole slice of bread on a size 2 hook or a few chunks of luncheon meat!

On the flip side, I am equally happy to go down to 1lb14oz for big chub when using maggots or caster on the float.
 
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Mark

I think you will have problems with pure fluoro as a mainline. Primarily because of its memory. It will come off the spool in coils and slap through the rings.

I use Kryston Incognito for long hook lengths and combi rigs - it comes off the spool in coils, but a quick run back and forth across the knee straightens out a hook length before use. Obviously you cant do this with a mainline.

If you want a sinker for fishing a river then Krysonite is superb - its a copolymer (mono with a fluoro coating). Very soft and limp with low memory.

Krystonite Snyde is a heavy sinker and was designed for fishing slack lines on still waters. It offers no advantage on a river or when tightening up to a lead.

They are not cheap, but you are buying British, quality products.
 
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Well yes, but it's not far east ****....well actually it is far east, but Japan is not China, Malaysia, etc if you know what I mean.

Its made to a standard not a price! And produced by a British company that makes many of its products in good old Horwich!
 

dezza

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Its made to a standard not a price! And produced by a British company that makes many of its products in good old Horwich!
__________________

Here is something of interest.

Years ago I did a survey of the manufacturers of extruded polymer materials, including monofilaments. The reason for this was to unearth possible requirements for molten polymer filters.

I discovered that regarding monofilaments, there were only a handful of extruders of this stuff in the world, and they were situated in the USA, Germany, Japan and South Korea.

There were no polymer extruders in the UK.

The biggest market for extruded monofilaments by the way is toothbrushes!

Now things may have changed since 1999, the time I did the survey, but at that time there were no polymer monofilament extruders in the Peoples Republic of China. There are now I believe.

Just a point on terminology.

The term "mono" is a short form of monofilament. Monofilaments which cover fishing lines are made from a variety of polymers, including PVDF (one of the fluorocarbons of which there are several).

Monofilaments (single filaments) are produced in very much the same way that a spider produces the silk to make its web. In fact the orifice that the liquid passes through is called a spinneret, be that orifice on a spider or a man made machine. In the case of a machine, the polymer is heated to make it molten, then it is forced by vacuum or pressure through the spinnerets, after which it cools and becomes the final product.

All sorts of adjuncts can be mixed with the basic nylon to create many different kinds of physical properties. Also, temperature variation and speed of extrusion can be applied.

Most of this of course is secret and known only to the manufacturer.
 

mark brailsford 2

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Thanks guy's
It was one of those articles I read somewhere that gave me the idea, think I will stick with my Pro gold for now :)
I might give Ingognito a try for hooklenths and Kristonite the next time I need to re-spool.
 

S-Kippy

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Thanks guy's
It was one of those articles I read somewhere that gave me the idea, think I will stick with my Pro gold for now :)
I might give Ingognito a try for hooklenths and Kristonite the next time I need to re-spool.

Incognito is the only fluoro I would consider when coarse fishing....I've used it for the past 3 season when trouting and it is awesome stuff. A tad thick IMO but exceptional knot strength. I wouldn't use it [or any other fluoro for that matter] as a reel line though,only as a hooklink. Krystonite I tried & didn't get on with so I'm back on the Pro Gold & Pro Clear....PG being the better sinker in my experience though I have complete faith in both.
 

little oik

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I thought I saw somewhere that fluoro used as a mainline can ( in some circumstances) transmit light down it like a fibre optic, or am I going senile in my middle years and getting things mucking fuddled
 

S-Kippy

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I thought I saw somewhere that fluoro used as a mainline can ( in some circumstances) transmit light down it like a fibre optic, or am I going senile in my middle years and getting things mucking fuddled

No...I've heard that too and I thought it was tosh until I saw it happening to my line. Not fluoro but a clear copolymer and it was lit up like a Jedi lightsabre. The other rod which was spooled up with a green line did not do this. Might just have been something to do with the angle of the light but I could see it right out into the lake...almost to where my bait was.
 
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