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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Default Cane rod refurbishment

    It looks a bit uninhabited here at the moment, so although it's not strictly a "build", I thought I'd set the ball rolling with a thread about refurbishing a cane rod.
    According to the rubber butt button, it's a Milbro, but buttons can be swapped... it's a 10'6" long, three piece, basic "bottom rod" with whole cane butt and middle and a split-cane tip; nowhere near enough rings, varnish on the cork handle (Ye Gods!), and evidence of having been re-whipped and varnished in the past. Probably 1950's. Expect to pay £10-15 at a car boot, flea-market or on ebay.
    Oh, and the tip's male ferrule clunks, and appears to have been pinned.
    My main reason (ok, ulterior motive) for doing this as a forum thread, rather than try to work it up as an article is that I foresee needing quite a lot of help and advice. And my photos aren't too good.

    Enough preamble: to business.
    Job 1 : Unvarnishing the handle.
    At this point, I realise I can neither save what I've written so far nor link to pictures until I've opened a gallery, so I invite you to imagine a slim cork butt, with a spring-onion-ish swelling at the top, made vile with a coat of brown windsor varnish. What to do?
    In smarta*se mode, I thought of the wife's little steamer; but couldn't find the dam' thing.
    In "Oh, c*ck, what now?" mode, I thought of batteries of paint strippers, caustic soda, Mr. Muscle sprays and the like - but what would they do to the cork, and the glue, and the aluminium fittings?
    So I started by doing what I'd do with any other grubby rod-handle, and gave it a scrub with a nail-brush and washing-up liquid, under a hot tap.
    Whoopty-doo, clean grotty varnish.
    Then a gentle go with an old scouring pad. No damage to the cork, but a few flakes of varnish gave up and washed off. I carried on for a spell, and some more varnish yielded, but most stayed firm. NEXT!?
    Steam? no steamer to hand, but could try the kettle...
    Attacking a steamed but obstinate patch of varnish with my thumbnail, I had a breakthrough - it wrinkled as I ran my nail over it. Now, cork doesn't do that, and if you can get the varnish to move in a way that the cork doesn't, you're well on the way to separating them.
    Back to the tap (as less of a hazard to the thumb), and wrinkled varnish was indeed persuaded to flake away from the cork. But this was a battle of attrition - which would wear out first, one small thumbnail or rolling acres of forty-year-old (p'raps) varnish? I could end up wearing my thumb to the bone ... bone? I had a bone folder, for creasing pages for bookbinding... nearer to hand, bone-handled knives...
    You've guessed. A vigorous massage under the hot tap with a butter-knife's handle, and great flakes of varnish lay in the sink, and the cork lay pink and new. A bit of thumbnail work on some really obstinate bits (where the varnish clung to a crevice in the cork) and it looked factory-fresh.
    A satisfying start, but was I lucky? Have any of you met corks varnished with sterner stuff? And how did you deal with it? Do tell...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Ilkeston ,derbyshire ,great britain ,earth ,The universe
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    Default

    acetone ,available from all good chemists is good .
    Chavender Floats
    I try to be funny... but sometimes I merely look it! Steve

  3. #3
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    May 2003
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    Default

    Does this work?
    http://www.fmcarp.com/forums/picture...&pictureid=497
    it ought to be a (poor) picture of the whole rod, showing the varnished butt and the lack of rings...

    ---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 AM ----------

    http://www.fmcarp.com/forums/album.php?albumid=52

    Any better?

    ---------- Post added at 11:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:13 AM ----------

    I guess not. If anyone can be bothered, pic two is the important one, showing the varnish flaking off and the roundness of the knife-handle used. For some bizarre reason, they've uploaded in reverse order, so 1 is the restored butt, almost dry, 2 is the unvarnishing by bone handle, 3 is the result of the soft scourer, and I've forgotten the precise order of the others now, but at least one of them shows the ghastliness of the varnished cork.

    Next jobs: work out what the ring numbers and spacings ought to be - ANY IDEAS, FOLKS?; remove rings, strip blank and revarnish, and try and work out what to do about the clunking ferrule.

    Once I can add pictures. Easily.

  4. #4
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    last time i de-rung a rod i got a old roll of wallpaper and marked out (on the white reverse) where the eyes was and alignment marks ,then refered back too that when refitting .
    Chavender Floats
    I try to be funny... but sometimes I merely look it! Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Default

    Hi, Chavender, I can see that would work if you like the ringing pattern (though I prefer just to measure the spacings from the tip of each section, and jot them down on an index card).
    Trouble is, this only has four intermediates plus butt and tip rings on a 10'6" rod - fine for a long-range carp rod, but for trotting?
    So, I need to figure out a way to space the rings so that, with the rod bent to its test curve, no ring makes more than a (say) 10degree angle in the line - and that to be symmetrical; and that no rings are so far apart (this applies lower down the rod) that wet line will easily cling to the blank.
    I also want double butt rings, for lazy centre-pin work! (Not only a tackle tart, but a slob too - the ruffest of slappers, I fear!)
    I've always done it by eye and drafting tape, but I can't help thinking there must be a more scientific way!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Lincoln
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    Default


    http://www.guidesnblanks.com/rod_db_search.php

    Hi Alan
    I can't sem to get this link to work properly (should copy/paste, I hope) but there is a ready reckoner type guide to ring spacing on their site

  7. #7

    Default

    Hi Alan,

    I found some excellent stuff on positioning guides (and rod building in general) here:-

    http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/staticguide.html

    The method relies on the old "suck it and see" method of working out where rings go, but the idea of using one line to flex the rod and another to get ring spacing right makes lots of sense to me.

  8. #8
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    May 2003
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    Default

    Right, backtracking a bit, and thanks to the wonde

    r of whatever BB code might be, lessavago at those pics:



    Above is the whole rod, showing the paucity of rings;

    Below is the radiant beauty of varnished cork (shudder).



    Below, the effect of hot water and an old scouring pad:


    And now the biz: rounded knife-handle and flakes of varnish peeling off:



    Finally, the clean corks, almost dry:


    ARRERUYAH (Confucius).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    On the road to rack & ruin !!!
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    Default

    I brought an old hexagonal cane rod from a tackle dealer at a car boot today,it`s in need of refurbishment....new set of rings,new whippings and re -varnishing.I paid the princely sum of £6 for it and also over the past few weeks,i`ve gradually cleared him of all his old cork bodied floats,porcupine quills and celluloid floats also.
    How much does it roughly cost to have such work undertaken on an old rod like this ??? I would dearly love to use this rod with some of my old style floats as well.
    Could you also give me any idea on what size limit of fish i could expect to land on such a rod ???
    I`m certainly not going to intentionally use it for largish carp etc..... and i doubt i will use it for trotting as i have an old bruce and walker rod for that.
    The chap who i purchased it from has asked me to show him it when it`s fully restored to it`s former glory.

  10. #10

    Default

    hi you could try these
    www.ryanburnsrodrestorations.webs.com
    not sure how to add links but i have seen a rod restored by them and was very nice

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