Static bites?

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Ian Michaelwaite

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Hello

Now I've got the hunting thing off my chest, can I ask a question?

Twice in the last few weeks I've pulled in a line owing to total inactivity in the swim. Only to find that there is a fish on the hook as soon as I start winding in.

I'm using standard hair rigs, once on a tight linr, the other slack. I'm using hangers, but not alarms as I only fish in 'spurts' owing to family time (so I'm constantly on the look out for line movement even if the hanger doesn't move).

I have seen this on the float in the margins as well where there is the slightest lift or dip and then nothing.

I think this is where the carp is trying to spit the bait and hook without bolting. Is there anything I can do to increase the chance of seeing these takes?

Thanks

Ian
 
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Jonathan Lungley

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You could try using the float on the lift method, as soon as the fish picks up the bait the float pops up to the surface and sits flat on the water. Or perhaps try one of the springer indicators that will pull line to you if the lead is disturbed, or perhaps a running lead rig with the clutch wound right off to give as little resistence as possible so the fish moves of with out knowing its been hooked in the first place.

Good luck

Jonathan.
 
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Tim Birch

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Had some problems with this on pressured fisheries.

Used small crystal waggler for margin fishing with tell tale shot 3-4" from hook (as if fishing for crucians)

its amazing how such large fish canbe so delicate with a bait.

From mainly watching and learning found trick was to sit on your hands until positive movement on float, not just dipping quick but definate move off with bait.

I think your generally waiting for the fish to be confident enough to move off with the bait in this situation so you have to give as least for it to worry about as possible and out wait the fish.

I also tried 'laying on with a very small crystal float and small leger weight which seemed to work (in the margins) providing the line down to the float was well aginst reeds (hidden).

I know this may not sound relevant to fishing with buzzers but I think it outlines what may be happening underwater.

Maybe an option would be a running rig (1.1oz lead no tubing) on a slackish (not straight under tip) sinking braided line with a light free running flying backlead or olivette with a float rubber allowing it to only run 6ft from the lead and the lightest bobbin you can get away with. Also an unobtrusive hooklength material (vary 10" and 6" Drennan microbraid 10lb?), small hooks and baits.

Hope this sounds relevant and works because its how I am going to be fishing from now until february.

I anyone has any views on this all critisism is considered as constructive.
 
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Stuart Dennis

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gotta agree with cakey there, you need to put more work into the effectiveness of your hook-end rigs and try using bigger leads.

The hook side of things dosent seem to be giving you everything you need. Try increasing the turning motion by applying a line aligner and take it from there.
 
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Cakey

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yeah so make it bolt with a heavier lead me thinks ...................
 
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Malcolm Bason

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Don't persoanlly think it needs to be a short hooklink to be honest Tim, but the carp in this situation deffo needs to be pricking itself, so I go along with the heavier lead/more effective hooking pattern option.

Ian, if you are going to the trouble of using hangers, I would also re-consider using buzzers too. It is sometimes difficult to stay focussed enough at this time of year to rely on sight alone. A bite alarm set on minimum sensitivity, will aid you in this! The slightest movement will (hopefully) register when you may or may not have registered anything visually!
 
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Ian Michaelwaite

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OK, thanks so far. I'll do some more reading up on rigs and try a different hooklength set up.

I think the heavier weight may be relevant as I've been using a weight relevant to the distance of cast needed. I think I should be consdering the weight as a more important part of the presentation as well as an "I'm going to chuck it that far, so need that weight".

Also will try the lift method in the margins, why on earth I didn't think of that i don't know.

Buzzers are on the shopping list for the carp show.

Cheers

Ian
 
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Tim Birch

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Stuart,

With regards to short hooklengths.

Last Year I did alot of experimenting in the margins on a commercial with a good head of fish 8 - 15lb.

As the weather got cooler and float or freelining tactics lost there effectiveness(?), I started using bolt rigging tactics in the deeper margins and found that I had far more runs with a 3.1/2 oz lead with hooklengths 3-5" long than with longer hooklengths.
These were very pressured fish as the venue is match fished alot, but not 'riggy' if you know what I mean.

Therefore my previous rig idea of light running rigs was probably me thinking too much and not using the information I already had (Sorry Ian, My bad)

I was fishing this venue in areas the fish always moved into at dusk about 3 -4 times a week over 2-3 months.
All venues are different but this did seem to work here and on other commercials.

I am no 'expert' but I do think about my fishing and wont judge something as a working tactic after a couple of fish or sessions.
 
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Tim Birch

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What are your thoughts on hooklength for riggy fish stuart?
 
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Stuart Dennis

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It a good question, but the more riggy they are the simpler you make it I suppose.

I've always used a long hooklength 8 inches upwards unless im on the method.
 
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William Spencer

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how about using a running rig.with a bolt rig the carp has to move a small distance before registering movement either on a reel or an alarm.with a running rig the line is in direct contact with your reel.do agree on the heavier lead though.
 
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Malcolm Bason

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I reckon your right cakey, I believe carp get wary of certain baits or how they are presented father than the righ itself!

I think its a waste of time over-complicating rigs - keep it simple i say!
 
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Cakey

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if the hooklength on a running rig is not straightened then this also would have to move a small distance !
 
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