Swan quill floats-refurb,seal and finish-whats best?

Tee-Cee · Aug 16, 2010

I know similar has been run many times but thought it worth asking again...

1. Old quill floats-porcupine etc.....done the refurb,rub down and paint-now I want to seal and varnish(?).Can anyone offer any advice using products available in small amounts and fairly easy to use ??

2. New Swan quills......all prepped and bottom ring formed with fold over flap of the quill itself-whipped over-top not painted until I have some knowledge of finishing...Again,what is the best seal/varnish to use for small quantities?

Don't mind paying for the right product(anything new on the market??) as I make this sort of thing often(use ordinary water proof varnish) but really looking for the EASIEST quality solution that gives a reasonable tough finish....

I reacll someone posting last year who seemed to be the acknowledged fundi(expert!)on this sort of thing......cannor recall who though!

Thanks in anticipation....

Tee-Cee · Aug 17, 2010

thought I might get ONE response to this......ANY help appreciated!!

Peter Jacobs · Aug 17, 2010

Tee Cee,

I seem to remeber the same thread from some time ago too.

I think most people use yacht varnish for finishing homemade floats.

Have you thought about asking one of the pro' floatmakers?

Sorry I couldn't help more.

Alan Tyler · Aug 17, 2010

Give it time - everyone's waiting for someone who really knows their stuff to post!
I'm still struggling with humbrol plastic enamels - base white and day-glow, but it seems brittle.
I think I'll try artists' acrylic colours and varnishes next, especially for the white parts - thinned with acrylic medium/varnish it should be more flexible, and might even grip on Norfolk reed or -cross fingers and whisper - Sarkandas!

captain carrott · Aug 17, 2010

as far as i'm aware clear yacht varnish is the stuff to use.

i made some peacock floats years ago and no paint has come off any of them, but i can't remember what paint i used to paint them because it was years ago. though it will have been one of humbrol enamel and games workshop acrylics

Tee-Cee · Aug 17, 2010

Well its a start anyway-and as you say Alan,a semi-pro floatmaker might just pop up with the answers....

I don't really think this problem will ever be fully resolved so I can only hope some bright spark will offer a solution based on long usage of the finished item............trouble is,once I've gone down a certain path I'm stuck with the results!!

Thanks to all for the above and I wait in anticipation!!

Peter Jacobs · Aug 17, 2010

Tee-Cee said:
Thanks to all for the above and I wait in anticipation!!

Tee Cee,

I just sent you a PM with a professional floatmaker contact possibility.

the indifferent crucian · Aug 17, 2010

I use Blackfriar Super Yacht Varnish, it is one of the best and is available in 450mml tins. Beware some 'yacht varnishes' such as some from International which are NOT suitable for immersion in water .... even though they are sold in chandlers

I got mine from a South East supplier, Brewers, but I'm afraid I bought all their stock. Here is the manufacturers site....

Blackfriar - Exterior Woodcare

On the subject of fluorescent tips, I'd go for Revell paints from a model shop...the Humbrol equivalent is pants! The Revell paints are touch dry in an hour, but do stick to some foams for some strange reason for up to a month after drying, a nuisance but it is still a superior product. It needs a white undercoat and is brighter for NOT being varnished.

There is a 'floatmakers thread' on Tackle Talk of another forum with lots of information, would the moderators find it acceptable if I provided a link?

I wouldn't want to be made to feel like a 'maggot' or find myself 'drowning' in recriminations:wh

Otherwise, ask away and I'll tell answer specific questions about suppliers and the like, but be careful...float making is dangerously addictive and you might find yourself struggling to the bankside with 250 floats like me, 249 of which you won't use

Peter Jacobs · Aug 17, 2010

the indifferent crucian said:
There is a 'floatmakers thread' on Tackle Talk of another forum with lots of information, would the moderators find it acceptable if I provided a link?

I wouldn't want to be made to feel like a 'maggot' or find myself 'drowning' in recriminations

Methinks you just did . . . . .

Mind you, that site is almost sinking under the weight of the 'smileys' that they have available . . . . . . . . . . why do the words 'dumbing-down' spring to mind?

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/h...loats005-1.jpg

Hmmmmn, looks a lot like Mr. Cook's handiwork does that . . . . .very nice though!

the indifferent crucian · Aug 17, 2010

Yes, some do find the 'smileys' a bit irksome, but I actually prefer they are available. I think they can stop the written word from seeming too brusque and causing offence.

Without a face to observe or sound to soften a remark, it's all too easy for it to be misunderstood.

I couldn't work out your link Peter..it seemed to go to a Photobucket 'home' page I hadn't seen before.

Paul Cook has been very generous with advice on yet another forum, but I know my floats are along way from his quality. Fortunately the fish haven't twigged that yet. A book by Billy Lane was my main inspiration, naturally enough.

captain carrott · Aug 17, 2010

a nice selection of home mades there mr crucian, how do you make the bodies?

do you turn them or sand them to shape?

Tee-Cee · Aug 17, 2010

Peter Jacobs...... PM received and thanks for the information!I will make contact and see what he comes up with although to paint and varnish my creations seems pointless really...almost an insult to the creator of such beautiful work!!

Crucian...thanks you also for your offering-all good stuff!!

Peter Jacobs · Aug 17, 2010

the indifferent crucian said:
I couldn't work out your link Peter..it seemed to go to a Photobucket 'home' page I hadn't seen before.

I just copied your link to what looked like a Paul Cook bamboo float tube, which was just gorgeous. Paul's floats are superb, but he has such a long waiting list no that it is not worth ordering.

I thought yours were very good too . . . .

---------- Post added at 20:33 ---------- Previous post was at 20:30 ----------

Tee-Cee said:
almost an insult to the creator of such beautiful work!!

His floats are just , well, beautiful really, it's almost as shame to use them to be honest.

I'm waiting eagerly for the next delivery which I hope to be using at Blenheim in September.

Couple those to a decent split cane rod and old centre pin reel and who really cares if you catch or not . . . I suppose thats why it's called fishing and not catching?

captain carrott · Aug 17, 2010

Peter Jacobs said:
I just copied your link to what looked like a Paul Cook bamboo float tube, which was just gorgeous. Paul's floats are superb, but he has such a long waiting list no that it is not worth ordering.

I thought yours were very good too . . . .

---------- Post added at 20:33 ---------- Previous post was at 20:30 ----------

His floats are just , well, beautiful really, it's almost as shame to use them to be honest.

I'm waiting eagerly for the next delivery which I hope to be using at Blenheim in September.

Couple those to a decent split cane rod and old centre pin reel and who really cares if you catch or not . . . I suppose thats why it's called fishing and not catching?

that's not fishing it practical archaeology

Peter Jacobs · Aug 17, 2010

captain carrott said:
that's not fishing it practical archaeology

LOL, let's agree to disagree; I'd call it the "soul" of angling Jason . . . . . . . .

Graham Whatmore · Aug 17, 2010

This is the man for floatmaking materials, paints and lacquers

the indifferent crucian · Aug 17, 2010

The float tube was made by Dave Pearce of Woolwich, he has a few on eBay at the moment. He supplied me with an unfinished one so I could put the Barnard Venables drawing on it. It has one by BB on the other side.

The bodies are both balsa ( I have finally found a good supplier of top quality balsa) and cork. I usually use ready shaped and drilled cork bodies from Angling Supplies in Cardiff, often with a balsa fairing top and bottom to elongate the shape. But I have, like George, used wine bottle corks in the past. It's far too springy and crumbles too easily as well, I much prefer the real thing, as it were, clearly a different grade of cork for a different purpose.

I don't have a lathe like George or Chavender, just files, sandpaper and a lot of time on my hands

. My floats tend not to be quite straight as a result, but I can bore through 3 inches of 1/4 balsa and keep it true. Sometimes.

The shafts are often bamboo BBQ skewers, but I use quill from porcupine, peacock and crow, pigeon,jackdaw or goose as I find them.

I now have suppliers of end eyes, though I can make them too in nickel silver or copper, 'glass and carbon stems, hollow tips and wire hoops for upper pole float line clips.

I have developed my own paints in which I try to mimick the beauty of the fish we chase, but it's a challenge .... have you seen how many colours there are in a gudgeon in the sunlight?

Truly astounding, and so easily over-looked.

captain carrott · Aug 17, 2010

you can make your own lathe with a black and decker drill and a couple of g clamps to hold it up if you're carefull, i once used it to turn some bodies of some pole floats i was making. rather coincidentally some of the stems were made of probably exactly the same type of bamboo skewer as you were using on your floats.

you just need to cut the body a little longer and then place the end in the chuck to hold it.

Tee-Cee · Aug 18, 2010

Peter Jacobs...I have been in touch with Andy and he has given me a few leaders on paint/varnish without being specific(which is only to be expected).Lets face it,if you'd spent much time researching products would you then pass the hard earned info on to a complete stranger-no,I thought not!!

Anyway its been helpful...

I just knew if I waited long enough all this info on floatmaking would surface and it was the George375 info that stuck in my mind(I even posted on that thread with similar questions!!)and again its been most helpful....

With this,plus the info from that font of all knowledge'The Crucian'I can go forward with confidence knowing that I'm using the best product for the job thats readily available now!

One point though;In talking to the pro floatmaker and reading George 375's offering we seem to have difference of opinion on varnish versus lacquer to finish the floats.
The pro float makes uses varnish(as lacquer tend to crack but is used by George 375)......siting pro rod makers who usually use varnish for this reason???

...interesting point but not crucial(I suggest)if the floats will (in most cases!)probably never be used due to failure in design or whatever....

Thanks again to all posters and I hope this thread produces more floatmakers for the future!!!

George387 · Aug 18, 2010

Hi Tee Cee apologies for not replying sooner but I didnt see the post until I logged on this morning, I covered an article for FM last year on cork float making which covered the final touches of painting and lacquering
Paint is down to self choice and what suits the individual. Myself and a few other float makers prefer this paint which I have enclosed the link for as it seems to have a deeper and better finish than the humbrol bands and one tin will last you years. This is the link on fleabay but if you live close to hull then its worth going down they are very friendly and cannot do enough for their customers, first class service.

1 x 250ml Hi Vis Florescent High Safety Marking Paint on eBay (end time 01-Sep-10 14:42:04 BST)

As for the final coatings a lot of people prefer yacht varnish other, myself included prefer waterbourne lacquer, its not oil based like varnish, is easier on the paint brushes, it washes out with water when wet and if mistakes are made it can simply be wiped off with a rag in the wet stages unlike varnish.
I use rydenor finishes which I have an outlet close to me in thirsk, I prefer the morrells induro XL1 Clear Waterborne 10% sheen hardfloor waterbourne lacquer which I ask for when I visit.
Morrells - Home - Wood Coatings - Specialist Finishing - induro

Another advantage over varnish is that after time it doesnt peel & flake like varnish does.

If you need to contact me on float making then the easiest way is my blog as I dont often get the chance to read the forums I used to, by going to the older posts at the bottom of the blog you will see more of the floats as of recent but Im taking a Sabbatical at the moment for DIY in the house

:
http://traditionalfloats.blogspot.com/

Swan quill floats-refurb,seal and finish-whats best?

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