time too check the operation of the reels parts ,twist the spool cover off ,give the handle a quick turn .the winding pin should be out ,press the front button (this retracts the pins) the pin should pop back inside the winding cup ,if so the button is working correctly .
now with the pin retracted turn the handle forwards the pin should pop out again ,if so the trip mechanism is working ok
next job is too set the drag correctly ,this is a two part process as its actually a double operating drag ,a standard slipping drag that overcomes the winding mechanism making it slip.And a extra reduction drag .
set up a rod ,and thread your line .tie the end of the line too something
put the reel into anti reverse (the switch is between the handle and reel stem) .now make sure the handle is in the forward (normal position) .
wind up the drag knob on the handle tight .
take up the slack in the line using the rod upright ,then twist of the spool cover .and increase the pressure on the line by leavering back until your rod is bent between 45-60* or the line snaps (if it snaps ,re-tie it and apply pressure until just before the point it snapped) and hold the tension and slacken off the drag knob a fraction at a time untill reel .just starts to slip and it ready .
you don't set the reduction/reserve drag ,the second action of the drag is too add a 50% reduction in the set standard drag ,and operated by a quarter back turn against the anti-reverse
set this way you can play a fish using only the slipping standard drag that is set quite high but below the breaking strain of your line (80%) only a strong pull will take line and you can strike and set hook easily ,if however you feel a softer drag is needed as a fish takes a sudden lunge ,you quickly can switch in, the reduced second drag .you switch it in then off ,not play fish on it or you'll get line twist and possibly tangles
then too release/take off this drag (it'll be stiff the release being new) you press your fingertip inbetween the spool cover and silver winding cup (the gap the line comes out off) and clamp down hard ,then push the handle forwards ,back too the normal position .prime and ready.
its actually better not too use the drags untill really needed ,start with the anti-reverse off and backwind with fish too small too pull line from the reel (upto 5lbs say) then if you doo hook something bigger you switch in the anti-reverse and play big fish off the slipping drag and use the second reduction drag as a emergancy drag ,ideally as a initial softer drag too deal with the first big lunges then take it off too fight the fish then flick it back on as your about too net the fish just incase it spooks .
the snyncro drag isn't the most user friendly which is why most people used too fix the older versions of these reels (the 500 series) by removing the anti-reverse pawl (as it wasn't switchable) and just wind up the drag real tight and just rely on backwinding ,as most of the fish they was targeting where less than 5lbs .but the 706 has a switchable anti-reverse so its just a matter of setting the drag right .
if you set the first slipping drag too light you might encounter problems setting the hook at distance .and if you where too operate the emergancy / reduction drag ,it'll drop this slipping rate already lightly set by 50% making it even slacker causing nothing but headaches all round.
thats why you set the slipping drag on the high side so when it is ,reduced by the second drag it'll take you down from 80% of the b/s too around 50% giving firm but soft drag setting .
one thing is essential is that you don't give any slack line or you may fail too pick up the line with the winding pin causing tangles.
