S
scuddy
Guest
Could somebody show me how to set up a drifter rig please as i,m fishing some big waters that could benefit from this setup. Thanks
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C
Chris Bishop
Guest
How big, how deep, how windy and what sort of bait..?
S
scuddy
Guest
I fish in the cotswold waterpark mainly and have done well on one club water in the few visits i,ve had. But there are a few others on the card that offer a challenge and some very good rewards. 50 to 60 acres the largest with a varying depth. The top end can be counted out as its too shallow and too many features. but the centre and bottom end are ideal.About 6-12 feet. Deads only baitwise and it can get a good blow onit. I,d like a safe frifter rig if poss
C
Chris Bishop
Guest
You need to use a strong floating braid and a rod that won't collapse under the resistance of pulling into the float when you get a take, or you won't land many as they'll bounce off.
The only floats worth using are the ones with the controller tube with a little float on top of the tube.
Tie a stop knot or put a couple of rig stops on the line, followed by a big bead a different colour to the controller, then the float.
The big bead lets you see it's settled properly when you cast.
Below the float goes another bead, followed by a strong snap to attach the trace.
Then the trace, with a couple of size fours, pref barbed. Trap a big enough egg sinker on th line to make the float sit up on the trace, about a foot - 18" above the bait with a bit of siliconepulled into the slit.
Bait is attached horizantally, top hook through dorsal fin root, bottom in pectoral fin root.
I prefer big deads like whole herrings, fished at midwater on clear waters like pits, or 2/3 depth if the bottom's even.
Take them out frozen, thy thaw in the water and you should pull out of them fairly easily when you get a take as they're pretty soft.
Aim to chuck it just into the wind, watch it cock to make sure the bead's against the tube as you then know it's settled.
It sometimes takes a couple of casts to get right, you may need more lead if the wind blows the float over, or less if there's not so much wind and the float has trouble dragging the weight and bait.
Unless you've got your back to the wind. it'll usually go out at a it of an angle. I normally fish it with the bil arm open and the rod up hih but check it every few minutes to ensure the controller thing's behind the float and the line hasn't bowed and overtaken the float. This can cause a tangle.
Controllers stop the tangles the floats with the eye on the top get into when the wind spins the vane and it wraps the line around it. This usually means broken float.
The only floats worth using are the ones with the controller tube with a little float on top of the tube.
Tie a stop knot or put a couple of rig stops on the line, followed by a big bead a different colour to the controller, then the float.
The big bead lets you see it's settled properly when you cast.
Below the float goes another bead, followed by a strong snap to attach the trace.
Then the trace, with a couple of size fours, pref barbed. Trap a big enough egg sinker on th line to make the float sit up on the trace, about a foot - 18" above the bait with a bit of siliconepulled into the slit.
Bait is attached horizantally, top hook through dorsal fin root, bottom in pectoral fin root.
I prefer big deads like whole herrings, fished at midwater on clear waters like pits, or 2/3 depth if the bottom's even.
Take them out frozen, thy thaw in the water and you should pull out of them fairly easily when you get a take as they're pretty soft.
Aim to chuck it just into the wind, watch it cock to make sure the bead's against the tube as you then know it's settled.
It sometimes takes a couple of casts to get right, you may need more lead if the wind blows the float over, or less if there's not so much wind and the float has trouble dragging the weight and bait.
Unless you've got your back to the wind. it'll usually go out at a it of an angle. I normally fish it with the bil arm open and the rod up hih but check it every few minutes to ensure the controller thing's behind the float and the line hasn't bowed and overtaken the float. This can cause a tangle.
Controllers stop the tangles the floats with the eye on the top get into when the wind spins the vane and it wraps the line around it. This usually means broken float.
C
Chris Bishop
Guest
If the wind's more or less behind you, you can steer the float to a limited degree with practice, by flicking the line to one side or the other, letting a bow form, then closing the bail arm so the bow pulls the float to the side as the line tightens.
Where the basnks are open and you have a bit of elbow room, you can walk up and down the bank doing this and zig zag it out to search the water.
If you haven't got a lot of room or snags on either side, I wouldn't do it, as a fish can kite a long way to the side using braid and you'd be surprised how long it takes to get them under control and coming towards you.
If the float stops, it usully means you've weeded it or found a bar or something. You still have to wind down and check. Takes are usually fairly violent, as the fish comes up, takes the bait and hooks itself against the resistance of the float as it sinks back down with the bait.
You don't strike, just wind down quickly as soon as it's gone, when you feel the float keep winding unril you feel the fish kicking and pull in hard with the rod to set the hooks.
They often feel a lot bigger than they are, as you are also pulling the float along and the vanes cause a lot of resistance, coupled with the fish opening its mouth to try and throw the bait.
That's about it really. Strong line's a must and mono's next to useless because of the stretch and the fact heavy mono - say 20lbs - won't float for long even if you grease it. As soon as it sinks, you've obviously in danger of snagging, in practice the float won't go very far once the line's off the surface.
Where the basnks are open and you have a bit of elbow room, you can walk up and down the bank doing this and zig zag it out to search the water.
If you haven't got a lot of room or snags on either side, I wouldn't do it, as a fish can kite a long way to the side using braid and you'd be surprised how long it takes to get them under control and coming towards you.
If the float stops, it usully means you've weeded it or found a bar or something. You still have to wind down and check. Takes are usually fairly violent, as the fish comes up, takes the bait and hooks itself against the resistance of the float as it sinks back down with the bait.
You don't strike, just wind down quickly as soon as it's gone, when you feel the float keep winding unril you feel the fish kicking and pull in hard with the rod to set the hooks.
They often feel a lot bigger than they are, as you are also pulling the float along and the vanes cause a lot of resistance, coupled with the fish opening its mouth to try and throw the bait.
That's about it really. Strong line's a must and mono's next to useless because of the stretch and the fact heavy mono - say 20lbs - won't float for long even if you grease it. As soon as it sinks, you've obviously in danger of snagging, in practice the float won't go very far once the line's off the surface.
S
scuddy
Guest
Cheers Chris. Iknew braid was the way to go but needed a safe rig. Appreciate the replyies.ta