Good Stuff Jeff

  • Thread starter Ron 'The Hat' Clay (ACA-Life Member)
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Ron 'The Hat' Clay (ACA-Life Member)

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I still use the self same rig. I've caught thousands of fish using this rig and often don't see a reason for using anything different. The only real fifference today is that I use a fluoro hooklength.

When you look at some of the rigs used today, you will notice one thing. Many of these rigs are recommended by people who are connected to a tackle company.

Nuff said I think.
 
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big gus

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Excuse the ignorance, why the stop-knot instead of a 4-turn water knot?

No doubt a very stupid question.
 
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Ron 'The Hat' Clay (ACA-Life Member)

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So that you can adjust the length of the hooklength.
 
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Wolfman Woody

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And it slides.

A fixed four-turn water knot would make it a tether or death rig. I've been told off before about them!!! :eek:)
 
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Wolfman Woody

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I put this rig in to start off the competition.


Come on you lot! Surely you have some of your own?

Get sending them to Graham!
 
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christian tyroll

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ive got one i just need to take a few photos of my diagrams, just waiting for the batteries to recharge for the camera!
 
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Frank "Chubber" Curtis

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I've been using that rig since I was a teenager. Just goes to show the old rigs are still the most popular.
 
GrahamM

GrahamM

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Had a great response to the Harrison Rigs Sponsorship. Lot's of great rigs and a couple of fly dressings sent in already and I'll be dripping them onto the site over the next few weeks.

Along with the forum the Rigs Library has always been the most popular section of the site.
 
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C. Roger Bradbury

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what's the heaviest weight you can cast on that rig, bearing in mind the sharp angle (deliberate) between lead link and main line ?

Is it anything like as heavy as you'd be able to cast on 8lb line straight to the lead ? or only half as much ?
 
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Jeff Woodhouse

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Hi Roger,
It not a rig for distance casting with heavy leads as far as I'm concerned, but I have made casts of 60 yards before now with 2ozs and maybe even 3 ozs on it. It depends how tightly you tied the sliding knot and how confident you are in the lead link.

Most of the time, I cast no more than 2 rod lengths out into fast water. The longer casts are odd ones exploring areas further out. One cast and that's it virtually.
 
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Chris Bishop

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Talking of tackle companies I reckon someone ought to get one to sponsor a Rig Library book - I only realised how much was in there the other day.
 
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Jeff Woodhouse

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There's also plenty of material for a complete joke book in the Bait Box. Could make a killing on one.
 
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Andy M

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I am new to much of this and have been trying to settle on a fairly standard set up for my ledgering (still water) but when I see a set up like this I always imaging there the hook link would continually be wrapping itself around the mainline esp with 6 - 8 lb lines. Does this occur? If not why not and if it does, does it matter? Many thanks.
 
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Wolfman Woody

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No. For one thing, I don't use it for casting great distances, more swinging out the bait than casting. Also, the bait is normally meat or sausage, fairly heavy, and so it will fly out at a similar speed to the weight. If it does get twisted around itself, it's never by much and usually untangles in the current and if it doesn't, you're right, it doesn't matter as the line will straighten when there's a fish on.
 
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The Monk

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yes they tend to slide down the line on distance work unless you put them out by baitboat of course
 
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Wolfman Woody

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It's really intended for barbel so a river is the place, but it could be used in a silty lake where the lead might disappear and you still want the bait to sit on top. Then you'd have to lighten the bait up a bit to sit on top of the silt. It's not the first rig I'd tie for carp in a lake, I must admit.
 
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Evan NotMightyAtAll

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I don't know Woody's answer to that one but for myself I would use effectively the identical rig but with one small addition; a size 20 swivel below the dropper / lead link and to which the main line and hook link are tied. The swivel stops the dropper / lead link sliding down past that point, allowing you to put rather more force into a middle distance cast, but doesn't interfere with the link as either a rotten bottom or its ability to slide back off the main line in the event of a break or snag.

Although it means you are moving away from the inherent strength and structural integrity of fishing straight through to the hook by introducing the swivel and two knots to the swivel there are some counterbalancing advantages. In particular it makes it easier to use a heavier mainline / lower diameter and breaking strain hooklength off the swivel. This fits in with chucking a heavier lead longer distances, when a heavier mainline is required for the weight, distance and safety against crack offs in any event. The finer hooklength restores the delicacy of the rig at the fighting end......

Unless Woody knows better ? As well he might.... I defer to his opinion.
 
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