Bite detection and striking

I fish quite regularly and I have noticed that many fly anglers fish with the tips of their rods quite close to the water. I expect that this is to allow for a fast response to a take.
But I have tried that in the past and when lifting to a take with the rod tip close to the water, I have often tightened on too soon.
The fish has hardly mouthed the fly before it feels resistance. I have found that I get better results by either holding the rod at least a few feet off the surface of the water or, even deliberately working the fly(wet) with a belly in the line (on lakes)! This gives the fish time to grab the fly and register a take and I find my strikes are far more effective. I used to be too quick on the lift and often missed my fish.

However. I find the opposite is true when I fish with a cane rod! Or even one of my ancient greenheart rods. In that case, reaction time is slower due to the greater suppleness of the rod and it is better to fish as directly to the fly as possible.

Any thoughts?

Hi Ian

When I first started fly fishing on rivers I missed many takes when fishing the wet fly 'accross and down'. An experienced angler told me to keep the rod tip high to form a bow in the line. This worked really well and instead of getting abortive pulls I got firm takes which were effectively self hooking. Some one else advised allowing a bow to form and feeding it as though I was waggler fishing. This also worked well. Both methods allow the fish that extra fraction of time to take the fly.

When fishing still waters, when I'm either using a very slow retrieve or allowing a dead drift I hold the rod tip about a foot off the surface and allow a small bow to form. When this bow straightens you've got a fish on and I rarely find any need to strike. I agree with you that the bow is almost essential whilst nymph fishing. I think you'd be suprised how many takes you don't even see whatever method you used.

Sean, have you ever fished with a cane or greenheart rod?
The belly principle often makes a strike late.

Another method is to have the rod pointed slightly to one side as you retrieve, the rod then acts as a shock absorber.

In wet fly fishing, the principle of letting a loop or "catenary" of line hanging below the rod tip is sound. The idea is the give the fish enough line so that it will hang itself.

It's also nicknamed: "swingtipping". The same priciple also holds good when you are legering for coarse fish. This is particularly important when still water fishing with a floating line using nymphs and a very slow retrieve. Also you must feel the line. Detecting takes is often a combination of feel and seeing the line move. I run the line over the second finger of my right hand whilst retrieving, whether it be the figure of eight and drop or strip retrieve. As anyone will tell you, the second finger is the most sensitive part of your body.

Many anglers want a dead straight floating line. I don't mind if there is a bit of memory in the line as it lays on the surface because the fish tends to hang on that bit longer.

Also consider this. A lot of anglers use epoxy buzzers these days which are hard. I prefer buzzers tied with soft materials such as feather fibre or floss. Fish hand on to them that bit longer.

For still water nymphing where one is often fishing at a distance, a floppy actioned rod such as glass, cane or greenheart is a major disadvantage. Cane rods are wonderful for fishing short casts on streams but compared with a decent carbon rod, they are a disadvantage on still water.

And they are heavy in the hand too.

Hi Ian. I used a cane rod (Sharpes 88) for river fishing for some years. I didn't notice any difference in the number of fish hooked compared with the carbon rod I use now.

I stopped using cane because I found it tiring and, on a large river like the Wharfe, there where times when I found it difficult to use due to awkward wind conditions.