Deep waters

rains

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Hi i need help i am planning on fishing in deeper waters in the future 8 to 15 foot maybe however i have only ever fished in about 5 to 6 foot in local lakes. My question is how do i plum the depth in these waters compeared to more shollow waters i have been fishing and how would i attact weights eiether side of the float with out them getting stuck in the rod eyes thanks.
 
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sam vimes

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You've got a couple of options if you want to float fish with running line at full depth, either buy a longer rod or fish a slider. (The pole is another good alternative option.)
I had the same issue in the last couple of years. A new water that is around 12 feet deep in the shallower spots. In many pegs at float range it's 12-15' deep. I'm hopeless at fishing the slider so I went for longer rods. I've ended up with a good collection of 15' rods and now really enjoy fishing longer than average rods.
 

rains

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You've got a couple of options if you want to float fish with running line at full depth, either buy a longer rod or fish a slider. (The pole is another good alternative option.)
I had the same issue in the last couple of years. A new water that is around 12 feet deep in the shallower spots. In many pegs at float range it's 12-15' deep. I'm hopeless at fishing the slider so I went for longer rods. I've ended up with a good collection of 15' rods and now really enjoy fishing longer than average rods.
Thanks for replying i fancy staying with my current rod which is 11 foot i think am i right in thinking a slider float uses a stop knot and once a stopknot is tied can it be moved or is it locked in place thanks again
 

peter crabtree

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a small length of powergum or pole float tubing tied firmly on your mainline and trimmed should go through your top rings without moving. Put your waggler on attached by the bottom ring then a bead then tie a swivel on the end of your mainline and attach your hooklink to the swivel. Put your shot just above the swivel with the bead on top. Best to use a fairly heavy float.
Alternatively check out polaris floats which need no float stop.
 

rains

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a small length of powergum or pole float tubing tied firmly on your mainline and trimmed should go through your top rings without moving. Put your waggler on attached by the bottom ring then a bead then tie a swivel on the end of your mainline and attach your hooklink to the swivel. Put your shot just above the swivel with the bead on top. Best to use a fairly heavy float.
Alternatively check out polaris floats which need no float stop.
Hmmmm them polaris floats look intresting how do they work and are they sensitive from what i have seen you need a big wieght on the line ?
 
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peter crabtree

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Polaris floats have a self locking attachment which stops when your weights hit the deck. You need to cast it out and then put the rod in a a rest and slowly tighten up to the float until it is sunk to a pimple. It will either bury or lift when a fish touches your bait.
 

Ray Roberts

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You need to fish a slider instead of a fixed float. If you fix the float at such depths it would be almost impossible to cast.

You need a partly loaded float capable of supporting a shotting of at least 4AA and a dropper. The float depth is set using a sliding stop knot and the float is attached to the line using a swivel type float adapter, this can be a type with a swivel in a piece of silicone tube with the eye squashed to make it smaller or the type with a small brass bush in the eye.

The sliding stop knot is formed by taking a length of line roughly 1ft long, hold this parallel with the main line, form a circle in the short length, pinch this circle between thumb and forefinger trapping it against the mainline, pass one of the loose ends through the loop that has been formed and around the mainline five or six times, wet it and pull it partly tight, adjust the tension so that the knot can be slid along the mainline but still be tight enough to not slip in use. Trim the ends of the knot leaving the ends long (app 3in each) this looks wrong but allows the knot to flow through the rings smoothly. Plumb up as normal and set the depth with the stop knot, at this point I usually mark the rod with a tipex pen at the dead depth. Temporarily shot the float as you would normally but set it shallow, bulking the shot about 2/3ft from the hook fix your droppers and fix the float by using a small shot on the stop knot side, When you are happy with the shotting move this shot to the other side of the float and fix it about 18in above the bulk, this small shot is to keep the float away from the bulk and helps stop tangles. From this point you can set it over depth or just off the bottom if you should so wish. Cast just past the spot you wish to fish, let the float cock with the bail arm open, sink the mainline and then position the float where required.

Sounds a bit of a palaver, but in practice it doesn't take much more time to set up than a normal waggler. You can also use the slider where there is a lot of bank-side vegetation or overhanging trees.
 
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guest61

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The previous posts have given you some options in regards actually fishing, but if you are looking to plumb the depth accurately I can recommend the use of a Marker float set up.

Hilariously, this video comes from the US but the theory is sound and its well presented.

How to Setup a Marker Float Video – 5min.com

You might even find that you don't need a Slider or Polaris Float.

Mark
 

Tee-Cee

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I read the question and thought about an answer based on years of experience with slider floats.....then I read Ray Roberts answer and its almost word for word what I would've suggested!!

I would add that I have never found slider fishing with line of more than 4lb BS that easy although I have used 6lb BS at a pinch...AND I have usually used rods of 12' or more (preferably 13') but it does depend on the swim you're fishing..and what you're fishing for!!
For swims over 12' deep and out from the bank I ALWAYS use a loaded (home made)slider of 12" length (perfectly sentitive if shotted correctly!) as this helps with the casting and stops the float travelling back toward you as the shot sinks to the bottom.
I have had some very good fish with this method which takes time to set up properly and the sliding stop knot tends to put people off (they usually pull it too tight when tying it) which makes 'sliding' the knot almost impossible without damaging the line!!
Its critical to use spit when sliding the knot and to slide it slowly!!!

Obviously lots of alternatives to the above which probably work just as well but either way slider fishing is a great method BUT you have to be patient and work to get it dead right so good luck to you!!



ps can someone put the slider knot detail up if possible???
 

Alan Tyler

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Basically, what Ray said. For more detail, try and ebay/abebooks/beg or borrow books by Ian Heaps or Billy Lane.
I think Ian Heaps must have fished at longer range than Billy Lane, for he advocates the loaded slider, which don' arf travel; Lane preferrred an unloaded float, iirc.
Ian Heaps also did a brilliant video on fishing the slider, which sometimes turns up - only any use if you still have a working vhs player.

On some of the waters I fish, the carp often patrol the margins as the light fades, so I take care to set that single shot Ray mentioned - keeping the float separate from the bulk - set as a depth marker for the margin; when I want to come in close, I just remove a small shot from the bulk and use it to trap the float against the singleton, like a common waggler. Want to try the distant deeps again? Just remove that second shot and replace it by the bulk and you're as you were, fishing full depth.
Because you strike through the float, and yet the float is large, and its inertia makes its swivel work like a pulley, you'll find the method far more sensitive and subtle than you could guess by looking at the floats. When you start avoiding swims because they're not deep enough to give you a decent bit of slide, you'll know you're addicted.
 

rains

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I would just like to thank you all for replying you will have made my future fishing trips alot easyier thanks for sharing your know how


Rains
 
A

alan whittington

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Rains,without doubt,fishing over 10ft is better and much easier with a slider,former world champion Alan Scotthorne uses the Drennan swivel float adaptor,which i would use with lines above 5lb b.s.,but the best thing ive ever used is the seymo silicon slider adaptor(if thats what its called),its amazing,i find that i can use wagglers(any,loaded or unloaded)from 2aa up with no problems,tangling or sticking when sliding,my preference for shotting is a bulk,where i let the float sit when casting and one or two droppers,but if fishing for the larger species(not roach),one is best and often a no.1 or more,one tip that must be done if tangles are to be avoided,is to cast(overhead) with as smooth and gentle action as possible.One thing ive omitted is plumbing the depth,as mentioned shot your float to the level you require(i would say 0.75in approx,unless extreme distance is required),then put your tell tale(shot nearest the hook),on at the loop for your hooklength,then put one of the say aa shot from your bulk with the tell tale,whilst plumbing i put my bulk about 14in away from the loop,tie your stop knot where you guess the depth is and cast out around the swim(remembering to leave your bail arm open to allow the line to pass through the adaptor),if the float cocks to its setting,its not deep enough,if it lays flat its way over and if it sits say 1-1.5in out its about right.Im sorry if this sounds complicated,but in all truth,once you've done it once or twice its easy peasy,good luck.
 

rains

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I will let you all know. Wont be going to the deeper waters for awhile can anyone provide a link to this knot had a quick look on google was not sure if it was the right one i want to master it in the house before the bank lol
 
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alan whittington

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Way beyond me im afraid,but i'll have a look on google and see if i can put you onto it.
 

Alan Tyler

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I just lay a bit of 3lb(ish) line next to the reel line, turn a loop in it, and pass one end through the loop-and around the reel line - four times, just like a grinner knot. Recently, I've taken to inserting a bit of nylon thread (rod-whipping stuff) into the last bit of the loop to close - pulling on this can persuade the knot to undo (more useful if you're tying stop-knots as markers on a leger-line).
For added security, add another stop-knot above the first; to stick in place even more firmly, dab the knot with magic marker (thanks, Baz!).
 
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alan whittington

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Put it on a search on FM 'sliding float rig and sliding stop knot' by Jeff Woodhouse,its not quite the same as i use(its probably better),but should be easy enough to practice from.;)
 

Frank Elson

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Don't any of you have problems with the knot ?
I've left long tails - around 2 ins - but I can still feel the knot hitting the smaller rings at the top.
...and a lot of others I've spoken to at the same venue say the same thing.
So most of us have gone over to the feeder.
I do like to watch a float tho.
 
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alan whittington

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Don't any of you have problems with the knot ?
I've left long tails - around 2 ins - but I can still feel the knot hitting the smaller rings at the top.
...and a lot of others I've spoken to at the same venue say the same thing.
So most of us have gone over to the feeder.
I do like to watch a float tho.

Frank,obviously the knot hits the rings,but never enough to be a problem to the cast,i tend to use around 30-40mm on the tag ends,but never use more than 3-4lb b.s. to tie the knot,also experiment with the amount of turns within it.
 

Alan Tyler

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Really small rod rings can be a bit of a bind - it's worth ebaying a seventies glass rod as a slider special, or to plunder the rings from.

Bear in mind that putting big old rings on a rod will change its action, though!
 
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