how far can you cast a pike fly?

I've just been out with my pike flies on my local lake, and I'm disaapointed with the distances I'm achieving. I probably cast 20 yards at the most, usually around 15 yards max.

my set up is as follows: shimano biocraft XT saltwater 8 weight rod, biocraft xt reel, cortland 444SL ghost tip 8 wt line.

should the average person be able to do better with this setup, or am I expecting too much?

You probably need a heavier line to overcome the significant air resistance of large pike flies; something like a nine or ten. Obviously this means a more powerful rod as well.

Also, how long is your leader? I would be inclined to stick to one of about six feet, including the wire trace.

After many years of casting wind resistant bass lures and saltwater flies with a single handed fly rod I would suggest you up your fly line and rod to a 9 or 10. You don't need a rod longer than 9 feet by the way, anything longer and you might have problems getting a tight loop. You'll also get a very tired arm.

Next the line. Get what is known as a "bug taper". This has a shorter belly and steeper taper near the tip of the line. Cortland and Scientific Anglers do these lines.

Leaders: Like Fred says, keep your leader fairly short. For top water fishing for large mouth bass I used to use a 7 foot leader tapering to about 12lbs bs. You will need to go a bit heavier than that for pike.

Casting Technique: You are going to have to learn the double haul method if you want to get any distance with large flies.

Once you get this right you should be able to chuck 30 to 35 yards quite easily with two false casts. If you can't, book some lessons with a good teacher. It will be money well spent.

great advice - many thanks. My rod seems pretty stiff for an 8 weight. I already have 9 weight lines on other spools - is it risky to cast a 9 wt line on an 8 wt rod?

I suppose to only way to find out is to try casting with it! my leader is probably a bit long - I was using an airflo tapered leader specifically designed for pike flies, but with the wire trace it must be about 8 feet long.

Not at all John. The way many rods are rated today, they are quite capable of handling a line size bigger than is written on the rod. All you will do if you go to a 9 weight line is slow the action of the rod down a bit. This could help with your timing and enable you to cast a bit further. I have an 8 weight rod that throws a nine weight 10 yard shooting head over 40 yards - no problem at all.

John,

With pike flies I wouldn't use less than a 9 line. A 10 shooting head might be even better, if you have decent technique. An 8 weght rod should take a 9 line no problem.

I used a 9 rod with an 11 shooting head for pollack this summer and was casting a long way with ease.

Casting a fly is not an exact science in that there are lots of variables. The principal one is the technique of the caster. Using heavier gear than you would use for trout does not neccessarily mean that you will cast further.

An effective double haul is definitely the key to greater distance. my own casting has been revolutionised in the last 6 years by mainly self-learning the double haul. I came second in a casting competion the other week. I would never have come close before I started hauling properly.

I don't really like publicising another website on FM, but Paul Arden's "sexyloops" site is excellent for casting advice, if a bit OTT. There are video clips of the double haul that you can practise without a rod.

A rod is designed for a certain amount of line weight out - so stepping up an AFTM will mean you load the rod with less flyline - just false cast slightly less and then use double hauling to shoot the line out.

Also use flies that don't absorb water - some of the zonker type flies will be become very heavy - get some made of synthetic fibres that don't absorb water or better still make some.

Neil.

thanks for all the advice everyone. I've had another try, and I seem to be snatching at the line on the forward stroke. I think the heavy fly is affecting my timing as it seems to want to fall to the ground rather than straighten out behind me.

on the forward cast it hits the water as I pull back for the start of the reverse stroke.

I obviously need to give it more speed - am i correct in thinking that "double hauling" speeds the line up?

John,

Yes double hauling will get the line moving faster.
You could also do as Neil suggests and try lighter, non absorbent synthetic materials instead of things like Rabbit fur for example.

Personally, I love the profile that Arctic Fox gives. OK I know it is not synthetic, but it just seems to shake water off on the false cast. Also incredibly mobile stuff.

Double hauling applies more velocity to the line. What happens is that the energy allied to the line by the haul is added to the energy applied to the line by the rod.

It also creates a tight loop which presents less frontal area to the air, therefore the cast will go further.

You know you are getting it right when all you hear is the hiss of the line in the air, not the swish of the rod. I know this might sound silly but in actual fact the tip of the rod moves quite slowly when the line is moving fast. It's all about timing and the correct transfer of energy to the line. This will overcome the air resistance of the fly.

It's all about practice. No short cuts I'm afraid.