Sorry another Tench thread

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Wendy Perry 2

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Ok i am now on a hunt for a 6lb+ tench. My tenching session began yesterday at a commercial lake, where there is tench to 10lb.

I was using the lift method. I caught 5 tench, but none 6lb(soon to appear in gallery) now my question is, i may have lost a few through not knowing when to stike, using this lift method. I caught the 5 i had with the float going under not lifting.

Have you used this lift method? If so when do you strike? And also is this the best method to use for tench?
 
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Bryan Baron 2

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The best in term of enjoyment. Some will arue other methords work better. I still use the lift when possible.

With regards to striking do it as soon as the float lifts. The only way the float can lift is by a fish picking the bait up. Liners will always pull the float under.

Hope this helps.
 
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Fred Bonney

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Wendy,sometimes the float will be pulled under by the fish, if they are taking well.

What you need to also consider, is that if the float lifts and flattens,a fish has picked up your bait and hasn't moved off,strike!
If it just lifts a bit,depending on the distance between your bait and your weight,it could be a 'line bite'.
Hope that helps.

Edit: I prefer the lift method too,Bryan!
 
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Wendy Perry 2

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Fred that's exactly what i was doing, striking when it was lifting a little. Then when it was flat i didn't stike :)

Ok well thank you to you both i will plod on with this method then.
 
The Bone Collector

The Bone Collector

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What is it about woman on this site.

Its like being at home, question after question.

"Where have you been".... What time do you call this"....Why does your collar smell of LOTV?


Why don't you take up golf, its easy for woman to understand.

How about a men only section for FM ed?
 
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The Monk

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you are terrible BC, we should be encouraging beautiful young ladies, you take no notice Wendy luv.

Yes the lift method is a lovely traditional opening method for the glorious, I still use it on occassion with a traditional quill, its so exiting early morning when you see those pinheaded bubbles around the float, heart stopping stuff!
 
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Nigel Connor(ACA ,SAA)

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You really have to hit it if it disappears.That said, often you dont have to as the fish has bolted off anyway.

You do get a few liners with this method as the angle of the line to the anchor shot is acute.If the float is disappearing regularly and you are striking into thin air,lengthen the line from the shot to the float a little which makes the angle less acute.

I recommend striking as the float is lifting rather than waiting for it to lie flat.As the float lifts the weight of the shot born by the float decreases until if it is lying flat, the whole weight is born by the fish.There is a risk therefore at this stage it can reject the bait.Interestingly our esteemed editor has written a little discourse on the principles behind the lift method in his column in this month's Coarse Fisherman.

It is a splendid method, even better at night when the isotope in the float rises up like the sword of excalibur!

Are you keeping the rod in two rests Wendy?
 
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Wendy Perry 2

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Nick i think i am learning to get a thicker skin for this site, i have had no choice really. I think BC is ok, well i'm still trying to figure him out :)

Nige, yes i am keeping it in two rod rests so it keeps very still.
 
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The Monk

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Ssssshhhhhh BC

I think you hold your own very well Wendy, I remember joining a typing class once and I was the only guy on the course, it was difficult, but I coped!
 
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The Monk

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Use three and you can hang up the washing at the same time.

knowing Wendy she`ll probably hang you up BC at the fishin haha
 
Graham Whatmore

Graham Whatmore

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Wendy. If you get movement on the float and there is nothing there when you strike try lessening the distance between the shot and the hook this will give you a quicker indication. I usually start with the shot about three or four inches from the hook but I will go down to one inch if necessary.
 
The Bone Collector

The Bone Collector

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Not got me fooled Monk with all this female appreciation guff, you of all people.

I think you hold your own very well Wendy,


More like you would like her to 'hold your own'.
 
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Wolfman Woody

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This is a fascinating subject and one that Granville Marzipan touched on in Coarse Fisherman this month.

First rules: Choose a float that will sink with the weight of the end shot, <u>but only just </u>(usually it is only one shot, best if you can fix your float on with a rubber [not that sort] tube). So, if you're fixing to use a swan shot then it would be a fairly big float, almost 4 BB.

Make sure you have measured the depth of the swim and set the float 9-12" above that. The shot should be no more than 4-6" from the hook.

When the fish (not just tench) sucks up the bait he lifts the shot, thereby releasing tension and the float lifts. If you read Graham's article he's right, the fish is NOT feeling the full weight of the shot, in fact it's just the extra weight that's actually trying to sink the float. In the example above, about 1 or less BB, as the float is lifting the remaining weight of the shot.

That's why it's important to balance it all correctly otherwise you might get a fish sucking at the bait and not being able to lift the shot too far. This results in the float rising slighty and then dropping back as the fish gives up and blows you out.

It's as skillfull a method to use as any other if you want to do it correctly and it is, as Graham says, based around Archimedes principles. Archimedes who invented the screw.

<u>Good old Archimedes!!!</u>

Then again you could always use a Polaris float, which I understand you have tried already.
 
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The Monk

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Then again you could always use a Polaris float, which I understand you have tried already.


these are a really good idea, especially at range, but would they not be a problem close in Jeff, would not a float fixed to the line work better, the polaris could reset itself on a finiky bite?
 
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