Split-Cane Test Curves

I am looking at buying my first cane rod...

To those who own or have used split cane rods, do you find that in terms of application, the test curve can be interpretted in a similar way to carbon rods? Is an 11ft split cane rod with a test-curve of say 2lb, of similar overall strength and use to a through action 11ft carbon rod with a 2lb test curve?

i.e. Would both be at home fishing for moderate to large sized carp or does a cane rod differ in terms of reserve strength, butt-section strength, shock absorbtion/softness etc?

I realise test curves can be the same on two very different, carbon rods let alone carbon vs cane, but I am just interested to know if there is anything else worth considering when interpretting a cane rod's test curve.

Any input appreciated, thanks!...

The test curve is a hypothetical value that actually in practice does not exist. It is the force required if exerted at 90 degrees to the butt of a rod that will cause the rod to bend to a point where the tip is at 90 degrees to the butt. This is the same value for any material, carbon or cane.

Years ago any rod of tubular section when bent had a tendency to become oval, thus changing the section modulus of the material and becoming weaker the more it is bent. This tends not to happen with high grade modern tubular carbon sections that are in fact superior in performance compared with split cane and have a better power to weight ratio.

Other than for old time's sake, I wouldn't bother purchasing a split cane rod these days. The equivalent carbon rod is lighter and far more responsive than a split cane rod in every way.

I hope this will enable you to compare the two materials.

I fished with cane rods for close on 20 years. I still use a light short fly rod in cane for fishing small streams.

Test curve and action are two totally different things. I don't know for sure whether test curve measuring will be the same but I would imagine they are interchangeable for cane, fibreglass and carbon.

Cane rods tend to have a more progressive through action whereas many carbon rods are much stiffer and more tip actioned. For small carp, chub and mullet I prefer the through action of a 1lb TC cane Avon rod. When you start to get above 1.5lb TC the rods re noticeably heavier and often are tip heavy. A 2lb TC cane rod will be quite heavy compared to modern carbon rods.

That is the main difference you will notice; the weight and action.

Playing a 10lb carp on a cane Avon rod has a specific joy which doesn't manifest in its carbon equal. As the fish runs, it produces a 'mexican-wave' effect through the cane which you never get with carbon. Just get one and have a go - they are **** for casting any distance and even short wally casts need a bit more practice than you are used to. But well worth the extra fun value.

geoffmaynard said:

Playing a 10lb carp on a cane Avon rod has a specific joy which doesn't manifest in its carbon equal. As the fish runs, it produces a 'mexican-wave' effect through the cane which you never get with carbon. Just get one and have a go - they are **** for casting any distance and even short wally casts need a bit more practice than you are used to. But well worth the extra fun value.

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Playing a 20lb+ carp on a MK1V Avon is certainly an experience, I bring my '57 birthday present out once in a while just for the heck of it but you can't beat a modern 1.75 Harrison for the big girls
Jerry

But in my opinion the best effect carbon has in fishing rods in in terms of fly rods.

I have several top class rods from the stables of Greys, Harrison and Sage that will knock any cane rod into a cocked hat. I would hate to have to cast all day with a 9 1/2 foot weight 7 cane rod that would weigh around 10 oz compared with 3 1/2 oz for the top grade carbon equivalent. Although I will be honest, my little weight 4 - 8 foot split cane rod casts a short line very accurately.

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It's all about dampening. Carbon rods years ago used to vibrate when you bent them and let them go.

Ask any keen archer about dampening. The limbs of a cheap archery bow have a tendency to wobble and shake on releasing. A top rate bow from the stable of Hoyt which is used in the Olympics for example doesn't do that. It transfers the energy of the bent limb to the arrow smoothly, giving consistent power, speed and accuracy.

Its the same with a top class fishing rod.

My limbs tend to wobble whenever I exert myself these days. Everything else wobbles all the time.

I have been using a rod with a split cane top section and a whole cane bottom two sections. I use this for general fishing and I catch fish to 7 or 8lb on it. I thought the fact that the bottom sections were fairly stiff would not come into play much but, I find they do when a fairly large fish is on. Not the bottom section but, the middle section. There is a fair bit of back bone but, some times that is needed when a large fish is on. The tip section works very well in cushioning the smaller fish. Overall I like the action of this rod for my type of fishing. For large carp I do not know but, for general fishing this rod suits me. It is heavier than my carbon rods but, it is only relative. It is not heavy as such and once I got used to the weight I hardly notice it now. Overall it is probably not any better than a carbon rod so, you have to be a fan to use one and I like that sweetness of action you get with these rods.

geoffmaynard said:

Playing a 10lb carp on a cane Avon rod has a specific joy which doesn't manifest in its carbon equal. As the fish runs, it produces a 'mexican-wave' effect through the cane which you never get with carbon. Just get one and have a go - they are **** for casting any distance and even short wally casts need a bit more practice than you are used to. But well worth the extra fun value.

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The qualities of a good split cane rod means that it loads far more evenly then a carbon rod making it ideal for short range fishing or fishing for powerful soft mouthed species such as mullet.