Combating drift

stillwater blue · Mar 28, 2013

I'm fishing a 40 acre lake for silvers. Very often there is a strong drift on the lake, in order to combat this I've tried all the standard tricks but sometimes it's just impossible to fish a stationary waggler.

I've never fished a driftbeater,

Perhaps I should finish lol

Is it sensitive enough for silver fish or is it just a bigger fish method? Can't say I've ever fished the lift for anything other than tench and carp, would it work for silvers or do they feed differently? Local shops don't carry the float so it means an online order.

guest61 · Mar 28, 2013

stillwater blue said:
I'm fishing a 40 lake for silvers. Very often there is a strong drift on the lake, in order to combat this I've tried all the standard tricks but sometimes it's just impossible to fish a stationary waggler.

I've never fished a driftbeater,

Give it a Go.

While its a method that has its share of off days, the floats still seem to be popular and as discussed in this seasons debate on the lift method its enjoyable too

barbelboi · Mar 28, 2013

stillwater blue said:
Is it sensitive enough for silver fish or is it just a bigger fish method? Can't say I've ever fished the lift for anything other than tench and carp, would it work for silvers or do they feed differently? Local shops don't carry the float so it means an online order.

The lift was originally used by the Lea roach fishermen for the bigger roach. It was from them that FJT borrowed the technique when he noticed that they also caught tench and popularised it during the early 50's.
Jerry

peterjg · Mar 28, 2013

The lift method definately works for roach - on big waters with lots of undertow use a long antenea (dodgy spelling) float with a sight bob, the sight bob will stop the float from pulling under, load the shot just beneath the float so that just the stem is above the surface, then put enough shot 4 inches from the hook to sink the stem (usually 1 or 2 number 4 shot) and to hold the float in place - when you get a bite (the float will usually lift) strike immediately. Best to use a 14 or 15 foot rod. Set the float to be afew inches over depth. This method is also great to use after dark for roach - just use a small beta light held in place on the sight bob with a length of silicon tubing (you will need to rebalance the shotting). Use the Drennan betalights which are supposed to be meant for use on a quiver tip.

nicepix · Mar 28, 2013

peterjg said:
The lift method definately works for roach - on big waters with lots of undertow use a long antenea (dodgy spelling) float with a sight bob, the sight bob will stop the float from pulling under, load the shot just beneath the float so that just the stem is above the surface, then put enough shot 4 inches from the hook to sink the stem (usually 1 or 2 number 4 shot) and to hold the float in place - when you get a bite (the float will usually lift) strike immediately. Best to use a 14 or 15 foot rod. Set the float to be afew inches over depth. This method is also great to use after dark for roach - just use a small beta light held in place on the sight bob with a length of silicon tubing (you will need to rebalance the shotting). Use the Drennan betalights which are supposed to be meant for use on a quiver tip.

I'd agree to this method, albeit with a couple of tweaks. Putting the bulk of the shot just below half depth rather than under the float will stabilise it better in my opinion, and I have the float sliding so as the strike goes straight through it rather than be absorbed by the float.

If the drag is strong I fish 10 to 25% over depth and have a string of three shot placed 2" apart starting 3" from the hook. This anchors the float better and tensions the rig so when a fish lifts the bait the float shoots up in an unmistakable way. It also helps to treat the main line with sinkant as used by trout fishermen.

I use this method a lot for roach and bream on big waters.

Combating drift

stillwater blue

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guest61

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barbelboi

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peterjg

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nicepix

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