Rod Blanks

robgal

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Following on from the thread discussing single legged eyes (and not wishing to hijack that thread) can anyone recommend a supplier for reasonably priced rod blanks? I would like to try rod building but would rather not risk an expensive blank on what might be a steep learning curve in rod building

Thanks
 

hunters moon

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:):)hello ROBGAL
YOU COULD DO A LOT WORSE THAN TRY CONO-FLEX BLANKS COST FOR A
THROUGH ACTION CARP BLANK ABOUT £40 ABOUT SINGLE LEG RINGS I
PERSONALLY CAN'T ABIDE THEM I HAVE USED CONO-FLEX BLANKS ON A
NUMBER OF OCCASSIONS AND FOUND THEM SOUND.
I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST FOR YOUR ENDEVOURS BUILDING YOUR OWN
RODS IS A TRULY REWARDING EXPERIENCE.
TIGHT LINES
HUNTERS MOON:):).
 

The bad one

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My advice would be start with a refurbishment of a rod first. If you ain't got any that needs a refurb pick one up of Ebay or secondhand market cheap. Preferably with a cork handle so you can redress it by lightly sanding it down bring it back to the light cork colour. Re-ringing it with new rings and vanishing it. Then building up to a complete build from just a blank.

Thinking back to the first rod I ever made back in the late 1960s what a cocked up mess that was :eek: The whipping was rubbish crossing over coils, the vanish was full of fluff. The wine coloured threat was nearly black as I'd used no colour preserving dope to keep the colour. My mates P****d theirselves on the match when I got it out. They don't these day they bring their broken rods to me for repair :)
 
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Wilko

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I've seen Conoflex blanks recommended before, who supplies them?

Edit: DOH!....After a quick google it turns out that Cono-flex supply Cono-flex blanks (Muppet)!!

Further Edit: This is getting more and more embarrassing; Cono-flex started in Hailsham (5 miles from me) and now have a factory in Crowborough, a town about 15 miles away that I pass through regularly!
 
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mick b

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Follow Bad Ones advice.
A re-furb is a good way to start.

Myself I started with garden canes pushed into one another and safety pins for the rings, amazing ingenuity considering I was six at the time (according to my mother).

You will need a half decent turning rack, I have a hardwood windowsill board scavenged from a demolition site over thirty years ago.

Rod rollers are best made from 3" plastic trolley wheels available from hardware shops (the larger the wheel diameter the less energy it takes to turn the rod)

The rollers are fixed to brackets, I used two sheet steel bookends, and drilled three holes thro the bases to screw the roller supports to the board, this allows adjustments as required.
A wide board also make a good drip catcher.

Drying motor from the aforementioned defunct microwave oven.

Make a bulk order to Mud Hole for your CP thread, it will work out cheaper in the long run (unless your over the pond anytime soon) AA is the finest, ideal for fly and match rod tips, D for big game wraps.

You will also need some Rod Bond for glueing handles to the blanks (nothing else comes close).

For softening Hyperlon handles I use a fish steamer, tho a scaffold pipe welded closed at one end works for some people.

Use hot melt glue for all tip rings, never, ever, use Araldite.
A smidgin of hotmelt is also good for holding a ring in place before whipping:D

Lastly collect all and every broken rod, net handle or rod rest you find, there will always be something of use even if its just the hook ring or threaded cap.

PM me if you get stuck.
 

robgal

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Thanks for the advice gents, I hadn't even thought about a refurb first but it sounds like a good way to get started. I think I actually have a rod turner in the cupboard somewhere (a stonefly flydrier/rod turner won from a magazine yonks ago) I am sure this will be enough at first. Thankyou for the offer mick b I will gratefully take you up on it if I get stuck,

Cheers
Rob
 

silvers

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mick b - why not use araldite?

i've used plenty of times with no noticeable problem.
 

The bad one

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Lastly collect all and every broken rod, net handle or rod rest you find, there will always be something of use even if its just the hook ring or threaded cap.

PM me if you get stuck.
A man of my own heart :D Just can't walk past any discarded piece of tackle... broken brollies, rods, bent rod rests, floats, plugs stuck up in a tree, spinners found on the gravel after a flood with rusty hooks on them. Everything has to be inspected to see if it can be refurbed back into use. Saved myself £££££££ over the years by way of this kleptomania :D

PS don't actually steal them but it was the nearest word that would fit. Is there a word for my mainia?

PPS The alternative to Mick’s hot glue on the foot to keep it on the blank when starting whipping is a dab of super glue. Most essential when whipping up quiver tip sections.
 
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robtherake

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PPS The alternative to Mick’s hot glue on the foot to keep it on the blank when starting whipping is a dab of super glue. Most essential when whipping up quiver tip sections.

Just coming off-thread slightly for a moment; do you have a source for quiver tip eyes? I'd like to replace the chromed ones on my old Shakey Team Carbon Multi-tip, which are way past their best.
 

mick b

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Hot melt allows easy replacement of tip rings.
Its low tech, low cost, melts with a match, can be 'fed' into a ring tube with ease and is simple to clean up.

Try melting a tip ring glued on with Araldite and you will find that the heat required will permanently damage the blank.
Its a specialised product costing £s, requires careful mixing, melts at a higher temperature requiring a gas lighter or torch, and is a real b to clean up.
No brainer really.
.....
Super glue, yes, especially for securing the ends of those mini highlight wraps.


Recycling....
There was once a B&W 17 foot match rod that kept breaking about 7" down from the tip, as I was doing my rounds on the river I scavenged these broken tips and later used them to make some really high tech sail floats, never caught me any more pike tho!

I also collected the remains of a broken Shim Beastmaster boat rod which later became a brilliant tag stick and with the Hyperlon handle it also floated, still in use to this day.

I even collect lost sea anglers beads when I see them on the high water line :eek:mg:...sad but true.

Best of all are the beautiful handmade trotting floats the 'visitors' leave behind in the trees along the LIF...........thank you gentlemen :wh
 
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silvers

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Thanks .... Never thought of the replacement issue
 

mick b

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Q'tip guides.
There used to be some very small guides listed on FleaBay, haven't checked recently but worth keeping your eyes open.

At out local car boot last year I brought a bundle of various rod tops (from one of those house clearance vans) for 50p, some of these had immac top quality Fuji rings on which was the reason I snapped em up!
Snapped or damaged tops from quality match rods make superb medium q tips btw.

Recently found an original and complete John Wilson Avon Quiver at the same car boot but didn't want to pay £5 for it, highly usable bargains are out there especially if your prepared to do a bit of refurbing.

Also start collecting any pieces of solid fibre glass rods you come across, these you use for spigots, which are increasingly difficult to obtain as rods develop.
 
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robtherake

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I tend to use the very smallest fugi single leg rings BMKOG micro rings at 3.5 mm di.
Here Fuji BMKOG micro Guide - Fuji - Rod Guides

I found that site, and it's ok to lash out a couple of quid on a single ring, but it's a full replacement on four tips (about 30 rings) and that'll cost about fifty quid - the rod only cost me 12 quid, second-hand!

This place MKG - save 30% has some that might do (at a reasonable price), but they're out of stock in all but the smallest sizes.

As has been said, the best course of action is probably to source a cheap feeder rod (or two) as a donor and to strip the quiver eyes from that.
 

Ray Roberts

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As has been said, the best course of action is probably to source a cheap feeder rod (or two) as a donor and to strip the quiver eyes from that.

I wouldn't usually recommend a rod that I hadn't set eyes upon, but Dragon carp do a feeder rod with 10 tips for £20, if you can't use the tips as is then you could use the rings, or use the rings off of some of the tips and sell the rest of the rod with a few tips to some sucker on e bay.

Avanti Magic Wand 10/10 Matchcarp Feeder rod - Dragon Carp Direct
 

robtherake

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I wouldn't usually recommend a rod that I hadn't set eyes upon, but Dragon carp do a feeder rod with 10 tips for £20, if you can't use the tips as is then you could use the rings, or use the rings off of some of the tips and sell the rest of the rod with a few tips to some sucker on e bay.

Avanti Magic Wand 10/10 Matchcarp Feeder rod - Dragon Carp Direct

You know, Ray, that ain't such a bad idea. I'd seen those rods advertised but didn't make the connection. Cheers, mate.

BTW - A tip rod with 10 tips...err, OK. A reel with 10 SPOOLS though...why on earth...?
 

The bad one

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I found that site, and it's ok to lash out a couple of quid on a single ring, but it's a full replacement on four tips (about 30 rings) and that'll cost about fifty quid - the rod only cost me 12 quid, second-hand!

This place MKG - save 30% has some that might do (at a reasonable price), but they're out of stock in all but the smallest sizes.

As has been said, the best course of action is probably to source a cheap feeder rod (or two) as a donor and to strip the quiver eyes from that.

Take your point, but as with most things in life quality cost. And if its a rod for myself that I want and will have for a longtime then I'll pay the price. If it for someone else then I'll give them as many options as possible. The decision is theirs then.
 

robtherake

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Take your point, but as with most things in life quality cost. And if its a rod for myself that I want and will have for a longtime then I'll pay the price. If it for someone else then I'll give them as many options as possible. The decision is theirs then.

I hope I didn't sound too dismissive, chief, your help's certainly appreciated. It's just that in this particular instance (to me, at least) it doesn't make sense, financially.
The rod's one I used to own, in another life as a carefree twenty-something (sigh.. those were the days!). It was always an excellent bream rod and the promise of a trip down memory lane with an old favourite was too much to resist when it came up so cheaply. It still feels terrific in the hand compared to its modern equivalents - usually a good pointer - so it'll be great to get out with it and see if it's as good as I remember.

Truthfully, the last thing I needed was yet another tip rod, but you know how it is...:D

Edit - The original rod had horrid sliding metal reel fittings, which looked nice but were hopelessly inadequate. This one has Shakespeare branded Realfit-style fittings which are actually rather good (and clearly original), so at some point Shakespeare must have upgraded it. Nice touch, that.
 
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The bad one

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I hope I didn't sound too dismissive, chief, your help's certainly appreciated. It's just that in this particular instance (to me, at least) it doesn't make sense, financially.
The rod's one I used to own, in another life as a carefree twenty-something (sigh.. those were the days!). It was always an excellent bream rod and the promise of a trip down memory lane with an old favourite was too much to resist when it came up so cheaply. It still feels terrific in the hand compared to its modern equivalents - usually a good pointer - so it'll be great to get out with it and see if it's as good as I remember.

Truthfully, the last thing I needed was yet another tip rod, but you know how it is...:D

Edit - The original rod had horrid sliding metal reel fittings, which looked nice but were hopelessly inadequate. This one has Shakespeare branded Realfit-style fittings which are actually rather good (and clearly original), so at some point Shakespeare must have upgraded it. Nice touch, that.
No problems didn't take it that way at all.
 

jacksharp

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You didn't say what kind of of you want to build Rob?

I've built loads, mainly fly rods, and have had an issue where a tip ring secured with hot-melt glue worked loose and came off. I now always use Araldite Rapid for cork butts and tip rings.

In the unlikely event that a tip ring needs replacing, immersion in boiling water will usually soften the Araldite enough to get it off. However if you use a lighter on the ring tube the ring will actually come off with an audible pop and, on one occasion, shot 3 feet across the table! The blank wasn't damaged by this process (consider the temperature of the ovens the blanks on their mandrels are baked in) and I am still using the rod.

Gudebrod whipping thread is the best stuff available and of the rod-wrapping compounds to secure the rings, I have found the american Flex Coat the best. The trick IMO to getting a good finish is to not try and achieve glossy perfection in one coat, like the professionals, since we don't have their compounds or rotating mechanisms.

Give all the whippings a first, reasonably liberal, coating which you will find soaks into the whippings. Rotating the blank is usually done by cutting some notches into a shoe box and resting the rod in them then turning through 90 degrees every 5 minutes. When the first coat is dry you will find the odd little spike caused by a stray fibre or the end where you cut off the secured whipping. Simply nick these off with a Stanley blade and don't worry about any marks made as the second coat will completely obliterate them.

Apply second coat and be extra-scrupulous about turning the rod, particularly in the first hour, as you will see the Flex Coat "slumping" more than the first coat.

I don't often use dope as I find that if I get a lighter thread it darkens nicely to the colour I want anyway.
 
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