how to repair a broken rod

fishperch

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hi guys today i broke a rod :( its not snapped its still attached but there is bits of carbon fibre strands where it's broken. it broke in a very unusual place, the mid section of the rod just after the top ring on the mid section. does anyone know how to replair it or alternatively any where to buy a replacement section. it is the tf gear banshee all rounder and it is the extension section that you use when u quivertip. thanks guys
 
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alantay

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Doesn't TF gear offer a lifetime guarantee on rods.
I was looking to buy this rod 'Tf gear banshee all rounder ' are you now stated that it is probable not a good buy?
 

sam vimes

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hi guys today i broke a rod :( its not snapped its still attached but there is bits of carbon fibre strands where it's broken. it broke in a very unusual place, the mid section of the rod just after the top ring on the mid section. does anyone know how to replair it or alternatively any where to buy a replacement section. it is the tf gear banshee all rounder and it is the extension section that you use when u quivertip. thanks guys

TFG - Total Fishing Gear - Warranty Details

Doesn't TF gear offer a lifetime guarantee on rods.
I was looking to buy this rod 'Tf gear banshee all rounder ' are you now stated that it is probable not a good buy?

Not saying that it's any good or not, but if every rod breakage reported automatically meant that a particular rod was not a good buy, there'd be pretty much no good buys on the market. I've seen breakages in £400+ rods and in £20 rods. Truth be told, some of the very best rods can be more delicate than budget stuff.
 

Ray Roberts

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I have successfully repaired rods for friends and family but not so high up and pretty well all straight breaks on the butt section. The method I used was to square off the broken ends and slide a section from a scrap rod into the lower half and glue into place with epoxy resin just like a spigot, when the epoxy hardens the top part can be glued into place. If there is a gap it can be built up with whipping thread and the whole repair whipped over. If your blank has splintered at all then I would just scrap it.
 

laguna

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I have successfully repaired rods for friends and family but not so high up and pretty well all straight breaks on the butt section. The method I used was to square off the broken ends and slide a section from a scrap rod into the lower half and glue into place with epoxy resin just like a spigot, when the epoxy hardens the top part can be glued into place. If there is a gap it can be built up with whipping thread and the whole repair whipped over. If your blank has splintered at all then I would just scrap it.
I have a good few broken rod tips collected of the years... one glass float rod is 40 year old!
I have a couple of feeder rods with tips missing too (glass) and a couple of carbon float rods - transit damaged. can't seem to part with any of em for some reason? :eek:mg:
Question; Would there be any advantage to repairing without squaring off the ends (if the ends sort of match up okay) and fixing a tube section in place at the same time instead of individually like you describe?

Also do you need to post cure the epoxy?
 

Ray Roberts

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Question; Would there be any advantage to repairing without squaring off the ends (if the ends sort of match up okay) and fixing a tube section in place at the same time instead of individually like you describe?

I square the ends to remove the start of any cracks that could run up the blank, plus It makes filling the gap between the two halves easier prior to whipping over the repair. I haven't tried repairing a tip section in this way as I think you may end up with a noticeable flat spot. I also don't think that the repair causes a weak spot, after all that is how modern rods are made, only with one half of the spigot glued.

I just use Araldite which is a two part epoxy to glue it, no problem with it curing, unless where you are repairing the rod is particularly cold.
 

laguna

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Right I see why you would square ends off if there's a crack running down it (in the absence of a vacuum assisted repair?) thanks.
The epoxy I have needs post curing if its exposed to the air so when I eventually get round to repairing these damn rod tips i'll buy another type that sets up in air at room temps.
cheers for the info Ray :w
 

john step

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I was devastated to break the top 6 inches of a new Daiwa team SR3 13 match rod after on a couple of outings.
As a bit of a magpie who keeps stuff "just in case" I was able to cobbler a length of an old Normark rod tip by sliding it up from the lower end of the top section/araldite/ over whipping the repair.
The rings were then replaced.
I have used it extensively for about 4 years since the repair. It works fine.

I also did a similar repair midway down the top section of an ABU twin tip avon that I crushed by clumsily treading on it.. In that case I utilised a piece of fibre glass from an old redundant rod.
 
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thecrow

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I was devastated to break the top 6 inches of a new Daiwa team SR3 13 match rod after on a couple of outings.
As a bit of a magpie who keeps stuff "just in case" I was able to cobbler a length of an old Normark rod tip by sliding it up from the lower end of the top section/araldite/ over whipping the repair.
The rings were then replaced.
I have used it extensively for about 4 years since the repair. It works fine.

I also did a similar repair midway down the top section of an ABU twin tip avon that I crushed by clumsily treading on it.. In that case I utilised a piece of fibre glass from an old redundant rod.



I have a rod waiting for the same repair John, unfortunately since moving to a smaller place all my bits of busted rods didn't come with me, I will just keep looking in 2nd hand shops until I find something suitable for the repair, whatever you do if you move take your bits and pieces with you.
 

Ray Roberts

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I have a rod waiting for the same repair John, unfortunately since moving to a smaller place all my bits of busted rods didn't come with me, I will just keep looking in 2nd hand shops until I find something suitable for the repair, whatever you do if you move take your bits and pieces with you.
Just bust another one and you will be sorted.
 

john step

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I have successfully repaired rods for friends and family but not so high up and pretty well all straight breaks on the butt section. The method I used was to square off the broken ends and slide a section from a scrap rod into the lower half and glue into place with epoxy resin just like a spigot, when the epoxy hardens the top part can be glued into place. If there is a gap it can be built up with whipping thread and the whole repair whipped over. If your blank has splintered at all then I would just scrap it.

I must admit that I have never considered squaring off the ends. I have flattened down any frayed bits against the insert in the sticky Araldite then when dry lightly sanding and then whipping over a generous length.
I will consider your squaring method next time I am clumsy enough to break a rod. With my record that won't be long.:eek:mg:
 

laguna

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Most of my rod tips get broken packing up or in transit - the price you pay for the 3 hour last cast well into darkness :eek:mg:
I cant say I've ever actually stood on any though and only ever had one snap fighting a fish (didnt even see what it was, though I suspect a huge barbel). That particular rod is now just a little short of what was a 12ft glass avon (about 11'9" and a bit) but it had sentimental value as my dad bought it for me when I was a kid. I think it has a "W" stamped on the butt end?
 
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