How often do you change yours?

sagalout · Nov 28, 2016

Me hook link gave way the other day with no pressure at all, at first I thought it was a foul hooker but no the hook link had snapped. On further thought (not summink I do often) I realised I had about 30 fish from 1 to 5lb plus several losses on that hook link over two sessions.

I have been sat here pondering whilst tying more hook links, should I try gin and tia? Is there an optimum number of fish at which to change? Should it be every session? I sometimes have them break after a couple of fish. I suspect an inspection prior to casting might have shown some damage to the offending article but maybe it was the cast that bvggered it.

How often do you change yours?

PS As soon as this gin and tonic is gone I shall try gin and tia. I knew you all wanted to know.

mikench · Nov 28, 2016

I change my hook after every session and often during it. I noticed that sometimes when using forceps to remove a hook with a knotless knot that I have weakened the line and hook and so I change it.

I miss lots of bites particularly on the float and for the sake of a new hook I at least eliminate a blunt hook as one of the reasons why!

sagalout · Nov 28, 2016

You can easily test the hook sharpness by dragging it across you finger nail, if it slips over it's blunt, if it grips it's fine.

---------- Post added at 18:00 ---------- Previous post was at 17:48 ----------

PS be careful how hard you pull tho!

robtherake · Nov 28, 2016

When I need to, but probably less often than I should. Hooklinks are replaced at the end of a session, or sooner if the hook becomes blunt. I keep a particular eye out for wind knots, kinks and flat spots, which are probably responsible for a goodly number of those mysterious breakages where the hooklink pops unexpectedly.

It's also possible that a hooklength loses a goodly amount of elasticity during a hectic session, but it's difficult to keep that in mind when they're crawling up the rod.

maggot_dangler · Nov 28, 2016

sagalout said:
You can easily test the hook sharpness by dragging it across you finger nail, if it slips over it's blunt, if it grips it's fine.

---------- Post added at 18:00 ---------- Previous post was at 17:48 ----------

PS be careful how hard you pull tho!

Thing is i have found these days that if you do test the hook on your nail it may have been sharp it aint no longer they are so soft now it's silly .

I use B911's mainly eyed barbless i will change my hook a few times a session , I have not found a hook make so far that stays reasonably sharp for a complete session .

PG ...

robtherake · Nov 28, 2016

maggot_dangler said:
Thing is i have found these days that if you do test the hook on your nail it may have been sharp it aint no longer they are so soft now it's silly .

I use B911's mainly eyed barbless i will change my hook a few times a session , I have not found a hook make so far that stays reasonably sharp for a complete session .

PG ...

...and the finer the pattern, the worse it is. Chunky hooks are a little better - Mustad Stillwater Extra Power keep a decent point, even in the smaller sizes.

S-Kippy · Nov 28, 2016

Assuming they last I scrap all hooks/hooklengths when I pack up unless they are barbel or zander rigs which I'll save, check when I get home and re-use or re-tie as necessary. Hooks will be touched up with a file before reuse but anything smaller than ( say) a 10/12 on a mono link gets binned. Not worth the risk.

maggot_dangler · Nov 28, 2016

robtherake said:
...and the finer the pattern, the worse it is. Chunky hooks are a little better - Mustad Stillwater Extra Power keep a decent point, even in the smaller sizes.

Yes i have trie some of the beefier paterns of hook but never been happy with them , I have got some Mustad Stillwater and a few others maybe just me lacking confidence in them they just look large for their size ..

PG ...

sagalout · Nov 28, 2016

I test the sharpness every time a loose a fish, this is the line failing through a kink or whatever, it wasn't the dreaded knotless knot cut through because the break was half way down the hooklink and there was no half pig tail.

Philip · Nov 29, 2016

I'll change it as soon as I see a problem either with the hook or link.

If I am catching larger numbers of fish I do sometimes think that perhaps I should change the hooklink in case there is some wear I have not seen & a better fish turns up ..but sometimes its difficult to stop yourself when your in a rhythm. Basically I try and keep an eye on it all the time.

I try and take allot of care when I am unhooking..especially with forceps. I try and make sure I only grip the hook and nothing else. Metal against plastic is not a good combo.

Tee-Cee · Nov 29, 2016

I'm usually chopping and changing home tied hook sizes and those to nylon several times during session to suit bait size. What with the bit just above the hook suffering at the hand of the disgorger and the very light bottoms it is normally out of necessity anyway. Whatever, I don't reuse size 20 or 22 hooks anyway from one session to another and much prefer to start with 'new' from the off.
Because of this I cannot recall a hook length breakage with silvers. Pesky carp are another matter, although I make every effort to land them..

My changes usually happen at tea time, when I generally have rethink anyway....

sagalout · Nov 29, 2016

So like me none of you have set change time/rate except maybe end of session, if the hook link is being inspected for damage and sharpness and passing there seems no actual need to change at end of session either.

Peter Jacobs · Nov 29, 2016

Being an old match angler I get into the habit of checking the hook length every time I re-bait as a lost fish can cost you dearly in a match.

It is a habit I have maintained throughout my pleasure and specimen fishing for many years.

It takes o little time to check as you put fresh bait on the kook and any d=signs of wear or bluntness means an immediate change.

On packing up all the rigs I have used are then either broken down or pole rigs are put back on winders after the hook length has been taken off and put in my rubbish bin.

When you really think about it, the hook is probably not only the cheapest item in a rig but also the most important . . . . . . . why run the risk of losing possibly the fish of a lifetime, or a frame winning fish, for a hook that cost a few pence or a hook length that has no financial value whatsoever?

rayner · Nov 29, 2016

I rarely change hook links through a session unless I see visible sings of damage caused from unhooking by me.
Small hooks that I use are chemically etched or laser points and keep their sharpness. Obviously the point can turn on a small stone but if that happens I can spot that when hooking baits.
Line damage is more of a problem if I try to disgorge an hook too quickly, light lines are susceptible to kinking with a disgorger in my hand.
If a hook or line shows signs of damage it gets changed, if not it stays on until it does.
I rarely blame losing fish on my hooks, there are generally other reasons. One reason is my elastic sticking to the wall of my pole, small fish are easily bumped.
I don't mind if my rig lasts a number of sessions, the longer one might last the better for me.

Bob Hornegold · Nov 29, 2016

I check my hooklink every time I go out, the fish I'm after are hard won and loosing a fish of your dreams seem silly for the time it takes to tie or change a new hooklink ?

Bob

ken more · Nov 29, 2016

robtherake said:
When I need to, but probably less often than I should. Hooklinks are replaced at the end of a session, or sooner if the hook becomes blunt. I keep a particular eye out for wind knots, kinks and flat spots, which are probably responsible for a goodly number of those mysterious breakages where the hooklink pops unexpectedly.

It's also possible that a hooklength loses a goodly amount of elasticity during a hectic session, but it's difficult to keep that in mind when they're crawling up the rod.

In my humble opinion, there are other things that lose a goodly amount of elasticity after a hectic session, especially when they are crawling up it. It has been a while since i was in that position or situation

Chefster · Nov 29, 2016

If the h/l is kinked,or looks like its not hanging straight,if i burst a maggot,its a sign the hook is blunt,most hooks do not stay sharp for a session,they might seem it on face value,but they lead to lost fish,and missed bites,
Ive started using the new Guru PTFE coated F1 pellet and maggot hooks,they stay sharp all match,unless you foulhook fish,catch a snag etc....Things are tight in matches in winter,often separated by ounces,for top places,you cant afford to bump fish,or miss bites

..All my h/l are made up in Guru cases,it takes 1 minute to change a h/l

nova12 · Nov 29, 2016

I hand sharpen all my hooks from new and change after 3 fish if no dings etc.im a big beliver in good hook holds and landing every fish

Keith M · Nov 29, 2016

I always start a session with a new hook, and my hooks are changed 2 or 3 times during an average length session as soon as I bump a fish, or have trouble pushing the point of my hook easily through the skin of a maggot or grain of corn etc. or feel any dodgey kinks or abrasions on my hooklinks or reel line.

I usually use teflon hooks with inturned points when I am using larger hooks and fishing over hard gravel/stoney bottoms which tend to resist blunting a tad better than other hooks but I will still test for sharpness on my finger before every cast. NB: The skin on my fingers is quite tough because I play a guitar Lol.

Keith

sagalout · Nov 29, 2016

Yeah, I ain't to tight to change a hooklink and I have loads all made up ready in the preston boxes. A hook link lands a fish then snaps on the next, would an inspection have seen the damage? Did the damage occur on the next cast? What I am hearing from all of you is you don't have a set time/count, you just inspect and change if you see a problem, same as me.

How often do you change yours?

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