Fluro hook lenghts

iain t · May 29, 2017

I've been reading up on Fluro line a bit over the last few days. Looking at the pro's and con's, referring to line strength tests. What i can work out it seems to have a lower breaking strength than printed on the spools which seem to be up to 1.5 to 2.00lb lower. Or should i say knot strength.
Now i fancy using Fluro for hook lengths. Seeing the knot breaking strength is lower should i use a higher rated Fluro hook length?.
My normal main line is 6 to 8lb. So should i go against the unwritten code and put the hook length up to complacent for the lower knot strength?. I.e a main line of 6lb and an 8lb Fluro hook length. In theory going by what ive said they should be equal or a bit lower. or should i just go 6lb main and 6lb Fluro hook and 8lb for 8lb.
Also, how can the manufactures state a certain breaking strength when they know it breaks lower.

binka · May 29, 2017

If it's any help I've never noticed any weak knot strength, I use a half blood knot and don't tuck it... It never slips.

If anything I find flouro quite robust and I've been in plenty of tight situations with the Drennan, despite hearing numerous reports to the contrary I don't ever recall it letting me down and I would go on to say that in many situations it's performed better than could be expected for its stated b/s.

iain t · May 29, 2017

It was the Drennan i was thinking of. Perhaps the lower breaking stains were from the old stiffer makes

binka · May 29, 2017

I would just do your normal thing, I've never made any adjustments for flouro on the mainline/hooklink ratio and it's always been fine for me

chrissh · May 29, 2017

I use Shimano Aspire Fluorocarbon 1.8 kg which is 3.96lb and haven’t found it braking on the knots I tie a half blood or knot less hair rig

108831 · May 30, 2017

I'm quite interested as to why you consider you need fluorocarbon on such low breaking strains,it is something i'd use as barbel hooklink on occasion,for floatfishing/feedering etc my normal hooklink is perfectly strong enough and unobtrusive enough too,is how I find it anyway.

iain t · May 30, 2017

6 and 8lb are what i use for Chub and Barbel.

fishplate42 · May 30, 2017

Tackle box in Dartford have done extensive tests on popular mono-filament, fluorocarbon and braid lines. They have published their findings HERE. (48.7Kb .pdf)

This may help.

Ralph.

S-Kippy · May 30, 2017

I find it helps to get your head round diameters rather than bs. That said my favourite fluoro isn't particularly low diameter. If I think I need a fluoro hooklink [ I rarely do when coarse fishing] then if I can get a pound or two increased bs for the same diameter as mono then I might think about it. Works for so called "hi-tech" lines.

Knots have always been an issue for me with fluoro which is why I like Incognito which takes a bog basic 4 turn blood extremely well and doesn't crack off like I've had others do. I use this exclusively for my trite fishing and those Farmoor trite hit the flies very,very hard at times. I'm very rarely broken, even with the odd "wind knot" in the leader and a 3 fly/knot cast. This is on 5 lb bs so goodness knows what 11 would be like.

I'd be fairly happy fishing that with a decent mono as mainline for barbel. By decent mainline I mean something with a bit of stretch that isn't Sensor.

binka · May 30, 2017

fishplate42 said:
Tackle box in Dartford have done extensive tests on popular mono-filament, fluorocarbon and braid lines. They have published their findings HERE. (48.7Kb .pdf)

This may help.

Ralph.

That's a handy guide.

It's notable that almost all of the fluorocarbon lines broke below their stated breaking strain, I would be interested to know whether they broke on the line or the knot as it might go someway to identifying a recommended knot if the tests could be repeated for the same line using a whole range of different knots but I guess you have to draw the line (draw the line, ha!) somewhere in relation to how exhaustively you test something.

It's a pity the Drennan isn't included as again I've had no issues with it whatsoever (six turn blood knot) and have 100% confidence in it.

thecrow · May 30, 2017

I now use the Drennan after trying lots of others on a small clear river, I still use a grinner on it and it hasn't let me down, as always it depends how the knot was tied in the first place as to how it will perform.

S-Kippy · May 30, 2017

binka said:
That's a handy guide.

It's notable that almost all of the fluorocarbon lines broke below their stated breaking strain, I would be interested to know whether they broke on the line or the knot as it might go someway to identifying a recommended knot if the tests could be repeated for the same line using a whole range of different knots but I guess you have to draw the line (draw the line, ha!) somewhere in relation to how exhaustively you test something.

It's a pity the Drennan isn't included as again I've had no issues with it whatsoever (six turn blood knot) and have 100% confidence in it.

It's useful so far as it goes but the stated bs of the lines tested are in most cases very high. I'd be much more interested in a table of results for lower bs lines. I'd fancy me chances of stopping a cabin cruiser on most 10lb lines.

Wilko · May 30, 2017

S-Kippy said:
I find it helps to get your head round diameters rather than bs......

I think you're right about this.
The problem with breaking strain is that the diameter can vary tremendously with the thinner diameters being the least abrasion resistant, when your fishing in weed or gravel it's the resistance that needs to be considered over the BS as it's no use using a 8lb line that snaps off every second fish because the rushes are cutting through it.
I tend to choose mainline by BS and hook lengths by diameter, that may go against conventional thinking but there is a method to it.

S-Kippy · May 30, 2017

Wilko said:
I tend to choose mainline by BS and hook lengths by diameter, that may go against conventional thinking but there is a method to it.

That's pretty much what I do....though I do consider diameters of mainlines if I'm looking for [say] a bit more of a safety margin without having to use a line of significantly higher diameter.

binka · May 30, 2017

Re. Drennan Supplex

There are numerous favourable reviews if you do a quick google but the link below, to an article in matchfishing, has a table with the actual tested breaking points that they achieved and all are higher than the stated and start at 3lbs...

Drennan Supplex Line

Neil Maidment · May 30, 2017

Knots. How to tie them effectively and their effect on various materials.

Written by Dave Chilton, the retired former owner of Kryston, who made it his business to find out what knots to use and not use with his company's products.

S-Kippy · May 31, 2017

Excellent stuff gents. I knew DC recommended blood knot over grinner for Incognito. Like the look of that non slip loop knot too......I need to learn that one.

I've tried Supplex. Nice properties but it's let me down a few times.Maybe it's my knots rather than the line but it hasn't happened with other stuff. Need to give it another go as too many fluoros are just too stiff for my liking. I know that can be an advantage but not always.

108831 · May 31, 2017

My use for fluorocarbon hooklinks has little bearing on diameter,I need strong line that has some invisibility qualities(allegedly),but generally only in a low water barbel situation,i'm not 100% sure that it's only for my confidence mind as i've caught enough on mono to be pretty happy with that too.

Supplex,this line is one of the worst i've used as a reel line,not for strength,but for quality the of knot in respect to how it looks afterwards(important for presentation imo),also it has an awful tendency to curl up badly at the end of the rod(any rod)area when your re-baiting,recasting etc,I have far more confidence using Silstar Matchteam in a similar diameter or b.s.,it has better abrasion resistance,especially in the 5.5lb to 7.9lb lines,I use these on the pin trotting for chub and barbel and would suggest giving a spool a go as a reel line.

Now,loops,I have used a single overhand loop knot for as long as I can remember,in every fishing scenario you have in the UK,boat and beach fishing,every coarse and trout method,never to be let down,in fact if i'm unfortunate to be broken it is usually from halfway down a hooklink to an inch above the hook,my belief is that many anglers do not tighten down to their knots correctly and lubricate,similarly I commonly use blood knot,tucked half blood and grinner,knotless knot,I find the palomar unreliable(user problem)as i've tied it,tested it and had it come untied on a fish,something that is infuriating.

binka · May 31, 2017

I've got to say that I've never used Supplex as a mainline, or any other fluorocarbon for that matter.

The knots always tighten down nicely to the hook though and I love just how easily you can slide shot around on it without damaging it.

If I feel that the visibility of the mainline is an issue I tend to just fish a long hooklink

thecrow · May 31, 2017

From Neil's link

On the other hand tie a blood knot to fluorocarbon and it is remarkably efficient whereas the normally trustworthy grinner that works extremely well
with braids will reduce the strength of fluorocarbon by 50%!

I don't know if its because supplex wasn't one of krystons products that he found this but I have used a grinner on it and had no problems, its also the knot I have used on all the fluro I have tried in the past and had no problems with it breaking at the knot.

I have to wonder how many times a grinner was tied and tested to come to this conclusion?

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