I just wonder what equates to a poor reel for you guys,I can think of a few things that do it for me,but I bought a drennan 4000 fd reel a few years ago now and thought it looked good,ran smoothly but let me down in an unexpected way,it created line spin which caused loops of line to fall off the spool,even though it worked perfectly after loading a new line,but not for long,I thought the anti twist line roller was stuck,but it wasnt,now this must be a design fault as I've found out since that two other anglers had the same problem,how about you?
What makes a reel poor to you?
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A poor reel for me is one that draws attention to itself. Why is the line twisted? Where did that loop come from? How did the line get round there? I've had one or two like that, and I got rid quickly. Good reels look after the line and do their job,and you don't even have to think about them.
wetthrough
Well-known member
Most has been said but I don't like reels that feel sloppy. Poor control at low drag settings is another minus. I'm not convinced that more bearings = better reel either. I had/have a Drennan 3000fd (complete with line twist!) where one of the crank shaft bearings had ~0.1mm/0.004" play from side to side. Up until then I didn't know you could buy rubbish bearings.
The drag is a big factor for me, no sticking whatsoever.
I like them to feel tight, with minimal play in the rotor and handle.
I suppose the main thing is that they do what you want them to, without any annoying issues like the line trapping thing already mentioned.
I would also class them as poor if they don't last long, or start to get sloppy quickly.
I like them to feel tight, with minimal play in the rotor and handle.
I suppose the main thing is that they do what you want them to, without any annoying issues like the line trapping thing already mentioned.
I would also class them as poor if they don't last long, or start to get sloppy quickly.
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I imagining this is a fixed spool were talkin', about.
For me a reel must feel solid, the handles shouldn't have much play and it should have an instant anti reverse, so not dropping back !
It should be smooth to wind and have a good retrieve ratio.
Other obvious things are not having the line go behind the spool and it must have a nice free running roller. If the reel is for float and lighti'sh legering I like to be able to reach the spool and trap the line with my finger.
I prefer a rear drag but so long as all the other points are covered then i'm ok with either front or rear drag.
For me a reel must feel solid, the handles shouldn't have much play and it should have an instant anti reverse, so not dropping back !
It should be smooth to wind and have a good retrieve ratio.
Other obvious things are not having the line go behind the spool and it must have a nice free running roller. If the reel is for float and lighti'sh legering I like to be able to reach the spool and trap the line with my finger.
I prefer a rear drag but so long as all the other points are covered then i'm ok with either front or rear drag.
Bearing in mind I don't use a drag mechanism ... and the good answers already
a poor reel for me for floatfishing would:
not be able to have a single (rod) handed bale release.
be too heavy (although mine are quite heavy)
not pay out line freely for trotting
not have shallow spool options
have limited winding power to get large fish moving away from snags (without just pumping)
need constant maintenance and have a short life
so I use Mitchell Match and ABU 507 (501 on canals and drains)
for legering I would add
be too free running so that handle turns just by flow on line
low grade gears that get mashed by constantly retrieving heavy feeders (i Killed a shimano aero match with that)
and remove the single hand requirement
too narrow a spool to cast long distance when needed
So I use Daiwa TDM 3012 for most occasions
a poor reel for me for floatfishing would:
not be able to have a single (rod) handed bale release.
be too heavy (although mine are quite heavy)
not pay out line freely for trotting
not have shallow spool options
have limited winding power to get large fish moving away from snags (without just pumping)
need constant maintenance and have a short life
so I use Mitchell Match and ABU 507 (501 on canals and drains)
for legering I would add
be too free running so that handle turns just by flow on line
low grade gears that get mashed by constantly retrieving heavy feeders (i Killed a shimano aero match with that)
and remove the single hand requirement
too narrow a spool to cast long distance when needed
So I use Daiwa TDM 3012 for most occasions
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Might seem an insignificant issue for most but the knob is very important to me. My fingers get less nimble as time goes by with the onset of arthritis. A rod sitting on a rod rest waiting ages for a fish isn’t such a problem but enjoying lure fishing when you are constantly casting and retrieving can be hard work.
I have difficulty with the t shaped knobs which are popular with the mid size reels and much prefer something like this one I found on EBay,
they are quite rare and the only other option is to buy from Japan but they can work out very expensive, often £30!
If anyone has these but prefers a t shape, let me know!
Don’t ask me why but I cannot stand double handles either.
I have difficulty with the t shaped knobs which are popular with the mid size reels and much prefer something like this one I found on EBay,
they are quite rare and the only other option is to buy from Japan but they can work out very expensive, often £30!
If anyone has these but prefers a t shape, let me know!
Don’t ask me why but I cannot stand double handles either.
mikench
Well-known member
Being a little( matter of opinion!) OCD I can't live with poor line lay! I too have a Daiwa TDM 3012 and I have respooled it several times but its still poor! As a result it languishes in my fishing chest of drawers! I didn't like my Procaster either for line getting under the spool but , touch wood, since changing the line it hasn't occurred (yet)!
Interesting reply Alex,I'm quite shocked that you still use a mitchell match,for imo apart from the spools being of good size(depth and stroke),they are a pile of junk,good reels in their hayday,but monkey metal gearing,slightly too fast a retrieve,bail arms that are too clunky and fragile(easily bent,then don't function),another shock is that you don't use the drag systems,most of today's reels have such good drags that even if I were using the backwind I would use the drag on a tightish setting,the only time single handed bail opening is needed these days is for very small fish and even then well practised anglers make normal bail operation just as effective,you sound a bit like me and computers,a technophobe...
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I don't mean to be unkind,but have you lost some fingers,that would be very uncomfortable for me
,it's a good job we are all different and that gear to suit our needs is available.
Jeff Woodhouse
Moaning Marlow Meldrew
I remember having a discussion with Andy Nellist on a coach whilst we were in Ireland. He insisted that paying more for a reel, ie: £300+, buys you a much better reel. I wouldn't know because I've never paid anywhere near that for a reel. I have one, a fixed spool, that retailed around £160 and I bought in a clearance for about £90, but I think most others were sub £100. I have a little Garbolino that cost around £24 and is a joy to use, yet a Daiwa one is a nightmare with the old line behind the spool problem.
I don't think there's any or many that could be described as perfect. I had a Shimano once that gave all manner of problems and I thought it was me having wound the line on wrongly in the first place. The main problem with them all is line twist as I explained in another thread, it's inevitable due to the way the reel works. If you have one that works well, keep it and never ever be tempted to sell it.
I bought a Cormoran (I think they're the German cheapo version of Daiwa) once and gave it to someone. It looked really good, but broke down for them after 9 months. I was thinking of buying one of the really cheap, about £12, Chinese ones just to see how good they really are. I am prepared to be surprised (or disappointed, but at the price who cares?)
I don't think there's any or many that could be described as perfect. I had a Shimano once that gave all manner of problems and I thought it was me having wound the line on wrongly in the first place. The main problem with them all is line twist as I explained in another thread, it's inevitable due to the way the reel works. If you have one that works well, keep it and never ever be tempted to sell it.
I bought a Cormoran (I think they're the German cheapo version of Daiwa) once and gave it to someone. It looked really good, but broke down for them after 9 months. I was thinking of buying one of the really cheap, about £12, Chinese ones just to see how good they really are. I am prepared to be surprised (or disappointed, but at the price who cares?)
Hi Alan,
I prefer to think of it as idiosyncratic. I do like to sweat an asset rather than constantly upgrade.
Despite their age - I find both the Mitchells and ABUs to be very reliable and low maintenance. I don't fish for carp and rarely target barbel on the float, so the gearing is fine for chub up to 5 or 6 pounds.
I've never used a drag, so perhaps don't know what I'm missing, but I can't think of a situation where I have lost a fish due to backwinding rather than using a drag .... but I can think of plenty where a slipping drag might allow a struggling fish to gain sanctuary.
I suppose a lot of it is second nature / muscle memory and would be a wrench to change for no benefit that I can see.
My preference/need for finger dab is down to my casting style - side casting whilst gripping the hooklength just above the hook (between left thumb and forefinger). I'm happier doing this to avoid near bank vegetation and get under any overhanging trees opposite. from swinging the rig in to my left hand, inspecting the bait and casting again is one relatively seamless movement.
I prefer to think of it as idiosyncratic. I do like to sweat an asset rather than constantly upgrade.
Despite their age - I find both the Mitchells and ABUs to be very reliable and low maintenance. I don't fish for carp and rarely target barbel on the float, so the gearing is fine for chub up to 5 or 6 pounds.
I've never used a drag, so perhaps don't know what I'm missing, but I can't think of a situation where I have lost a fish due to backwinding rather than using a drag .... but I can think of plenty where a slipping drag might allow a struggling fish to gain sanctuary.
I suppose a lot of it is second nature / muscle memory and would be a wrench to change for no benefit that I can see.
My preference/need for finger dab is down to my casting style - side casting whilst gripping the hooklength just above the hook (between left thumb and forefinger). I'm happier doing this to avoid near bank vegetation and get under any overhanging trees opposite. from swinging the rig in to my left hand, inspecting the bait and casting again is one relatively seamless movement.
how old is your TDM? My two must be at least 8 years old now - and I use them with both braid and also 8lb Daiwa Tournament. Line lay is good IMO.
iain t
Well-known member
Play within the handle movement, Poor layline, Sloppiness within the gearing, Poor clutches. I own a few Shimano and Daiwa reels, along with a couple of cheap Chinese reels. The Chinese reels seem a lot better in their mechanics. My son and I have shared these reels for over 3 years and to be totally honest, they have never been serviced or washed down and all the above hates do not apply to these which is a surprise as the only cost £12 each.
I don't mean to be unkind,but have you lost some fingers,that would be very uncomfortable for me
Nope, still got all my fingers so far....
Mark Wintle
Well-known member
Much as I like my Shimano Stradics, I still love my almost unbreakable Mitchell Matches for fine-line floatfishing; it's just so quick and easy to use them and as I can get over 30 years' wear out of one longevity isn't an issue. They have perfect line lay, don't spin when you don't want it, have a usable drag and are the perfect reel for a stick float or waggler. Graham M. once gave me a Grauvell carp reel to play with and I managed to totally wear it out after one HOUR, chucking a 3oz lead out about 90 yards with mackerel feathers and cranking back the feathers.
I side cast the same as you with all my reels,as for drag,as said my drag is pretty tight and virtually at the rods limit and be assured of i want to put the brakes on I do,I always played fish backwinding ,with cranked up drag,but things have improved so much drag wise,even the cheapest shimano has a better drag system than any 300 or match ever had...