How to load braid onto a standard (non braid ready) spinning reel
- Thread starter The occasional angler
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Sorry but I didn’t enjoy it at all.
A catalogue of mistakes and omissions.
Electrical tape isn’t the best idea as it degrades over time and the glue can get very messy, a backing mono is perfectly adequate to stop slip and add packing if required.
Braid needs spooling under tension, the more tension the better, use a glove or cloth to prevent injury, spooling as you’ve demonstrated with no tension is not going to give you a neat lay.
You have put water in the bowl but make no mention of it.
Most importantly when spooling braid, do not fill to the lip as you would with mono, leave a couple of mil, or a sure fire way of getting wind knots, once again no mention.
The background music is really irritating and totally unnecessary.
Once again sorry to be so critical but if you want to use forums like this for the sole purpose of promoting your videos to get hits then they need to be of a good quality and you do normally ask for feedback.
A catalogue of mistakes and omissions.
Electrical tape isn’t the best idea as it degrades over time and the glue can get very messy, a backing mono is perfectly adequate to stop slip and add packing if required.
Braid needs spooling under tension, the more tension the better, use a glove or cloth to prevent injury, spooling as you’ve demonstrated with no tension is not going to give you a neat lay.
You have put water in the bowl but make no mention of it.
Most importantly when spooling braid, do not fill to the lip as you would with mono, leave a couple of mil, or a sure fire way of getting wind knots, once again no mention.
The background music is really irritating and totally unnecessary.
Once again sorry to be so critical but if you want to use forums like this for the sole purpose of promoting your videos to get hits then they need to be of a good quality and you do normally ask for feedback.
Last edited:
Roger Johnson 2
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Hi Guy,
Sorry but I’m going to be critical too, firstly I agree with all of S63’s comments, but also it would have been much easier putting the tape on the spool and tying the line to the reel if you had taken the spool off the reel, rather than trying to hold the rod and reel and trying to the all at the same time. More information on advantages and the decision process for choosing braid both in general and that brand in particular would have been nice.
Goodness that music was irritating and I spent half the video thinking how badly your patio needed weeding! Perhaps filming with a less cluttered background and some close ups on the knots used how much the spool should be filled would be useful.
Having said all that, it’s better than any instructional video that I’ve done and kudos to you for making an effort to educate and entertain
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sorry but I’m going to be critical too, firstly I agree with all of S63’s comments, but also it would have been much easier putting the tape on the spool and tying the line to the reel if you had taken the spool off the reel, rather than trying to hold the rod and reel and trying to the all at the same time. More information on advantages and the decision process for choosing braid both in general and that brand in particular would have been nice.
Goodness that music was irritating and I spent half the video thinking how badly your patio needed weeding! Perhaps filming with a less cluttered background and some close ups on the knots used how much the spool should be filled would be useful.
Having said all that, it’s better than any instructional video that I’ve done and kudos to you for making an effort to educate and entertain
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
spoonminnow
Well-known member
The only thing I liked was the water-in-the-bowl idea. Have to disagree with most of it.
1. I used to use tape but found it unnecessary as long as the amount of braid added on top of the mono backing is at least two casting lengths or about 60' in my case because I cast only light lures and use small diameter braid. I make sure the line-to-line knot is towards me on the spool's base / away from the lip so it won't catch line on future casts.
2. Uni knots connect the two line types.
3. Tension is necessary while loading the reel as suggested by S63. I never use gloves to spool line and in fact hold the reel facing the sky with rod horizontal. I use two fingers of one hand to hold the rod while using two fingers of the same hand to put tension on the incoming line. The other hand of course turns the reel handle which I can turn at a moderately fast speed and not worry about line twist that creates a mess of coils and eventual loop knots.
Note: If for some reason any line type that develops the dreaded line twist, a line tension/ respooling (especially mono) is absolutely necessary. I pull off two casting distances of line that's lying in the grass in a straight line but with nothing tied on. Then reel in line as suggested in tip #3. Braid rarely gets twisted like mono or fluorocarbon, but if so it must be corrected even if you pull off line while the boat's moving if you're fishing from one) and then reeling. Reeling against the drag is something we all know creates line twist but also the stiffer the line, the more often it twists regardless of line type.
4. All spools in my experience should never be loaded to the edge of the spool's lip ! A little less than 1/8" from the spool's lip is recommended by all reel companies.
5. I prefer smaller diameter line because I never use live bait. IMO there are no such things as line-shy fish, but lure action is adversely affected by stiff thicker lines for those of you that use lures. 8# test braid had been able to bring in 15# fish using a light action rod and proper drag setting. For those that only use live bait and a heavy sinker for large carp or catfish, 20# test on a medium action rod is fine.
1. I used to use tape but found it unnecessary as long as the amount of braid added on top of the mono backing is at least two casting lengths or about 60' in my case because I cast only light lures and use small diameter braid. I make sure the line-to-line knot is towards me on the spool's base / away from the lip so it won't catch line on future casts.
2. Uni knots connect the two line types.
3. Tension is necessary while loading the reel as suggested by S63. I never use gloves to spool line and in fact hold the reel facing the sky with rod horizontal. I use two fingers of one hand to hold the rod while using two fingers of the same hand to put tension on the incoming line. The other hand of course turns the reel handle which I can turn at a moderately fast speed and not worry about line twist that creates a mess of coils and eventual loop knots.
Note: If for some reason any line type that develops the dreaded line twist, a line tension/ respooling (especially mono) is absolutely necessary. I pull off two casting distances of line that's lying in the grass in a straight line but with nothing tied on. Then reel in line as suggested in tip #3. Braid rarely gets twisted like mono or fluorocarbon, but if so it must be corrected even if you pull off line while the boat's moving if you're fishing from one) and then reeling. Reeling against the drag is something we all know creates line twist but also the stiffer the line, the more often it twists regardless of line type.
4. All spools in my experience should never be loaded to the edge of the spool's lip ! A little less than 1/8" from the spool's lip is recommended by all reel companies.
5. I prefer smaller diameter line because I never use live bait. IMO there are no such things as line-shy fish, but lure action is adversely affected by stiff thicker lines for those of you that use lures. 8# test braid had been able to bring in 15# fish using a light action rod and proper drag setting. For those that only use live bait and a heavy sinker for large carp or catfish, 20# test on a medium action rod is fine.
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