Slack Line Fishing.

  • Thread starter Baz (Angel of the North)
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Baz (Angel of the North)

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I think this question is more related to Carp fishing, but can be used for other species.

I think it was Rik Bellinger (Big Rik) who I first saw mention SLACK LINE FISHING at distance.

Can somebody try and explain to me how to do it? I have visions of casting out 80yds or so, waiting for the line to sink under its own steam, and then clipping your bobbin/hanger on. Then the bobbin/hanger would be set just off the floor, but wouldn't this mean that there would be large bows of line under the water once it has settled on the bottom? instead of in a straight line?
 
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Frothey

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is there any weed or bars in between you and the baited spot? pointless having totally slack lines if there is.......
 
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Baz (Angel of the North)

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Yes there is Dave, weed and bars. So I can see what you mean.

I could really do with haveing as much line from the hooklength on the bottom as possible.

Is my only other option a flying backlead where there is weed and bars?

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How would I go about slack line fishing on a level bottomed lake at distance? As there is such a lake which I will be having a go at. It is level all the way to a bar which rises up about 4-8 feet.
 
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Frothey

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fishing on the bar? nearside trough/farside trough? on the sides?
 
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Frothey

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all you can really do is use leadcore or a backlead that is a few feet above your tubing - the chances of having a line thats slack between the rig and the top of the bar in between you and the trough are pretty much zero!
 
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Ron 'The Hat' Clay (ACA)

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This takes me back to the late 50s and 60s when it was the in thing to fish totally freeline, in other words only a hook and a bait.

But this is a waste of time over anything more than about 5 yards distant as the sunk line between rod and bait will cause all sorts of problems. But I think it was Walker himself who recognised this and caught some of his bigger carp at distance using a 1 oz Arlesey bomb on the line.

And then came the tight lined bolt rig of course.
 
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Cakey

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as Frothey says...................................I use fly back leads but I super glue mine to the top of my tubing so I know that about 18" from lead is pinned down

if you are near any snags then you cant use any of the above as you need tight lines !
 
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Cakey

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99% of my carp fishing is with tight lines so I dont bother with the flyback lead

I also use black tubing as Im a believer that they spook on what they cant see not on what they can see...........................................
 
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Baz (Angel of the North)

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Thanks for the replies lads, it was as pretty much as I thought, but I was wondering if there was something that I wasn't quite grasping. many thanks for helping to clear this up.
 

Ian Gemson

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Slackline fishing can be devistatingly effective to ensure you get the best from your fishing you need to use Flourocarbon line or a mono that sinks well.

A running rig system ensures all your bites are postivie as the line travels through the lead when you get a take unlike a fixed lead system where the carp can travel towards you with little or no indications on the bobbin.

Light to medium bobbims can be used however these need to be weighty enough to cope with any water undertow.

Tight Lines mate
 
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Baz (Angel of the North)

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Thanks Ian.

Where would you set your bobbins? When I see people useing this method, they are usually just about off the floor.

I see more and more people doing it especially through the winter months. Is there a reason for this?
 
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<blockquote class=quoteheader>Cakey wrote (see)</blockquote><blockquote class=quote>

I also use black tubing as Im a believer that they spook on what they cant see not on what they can see...........................................</blockquote>
Very simple logic , thanks Cakey , I will go with that ./forum/smilies/i_dont_know_smiley.gif
 

catch

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id use running rig cast out let the line settle then put backlead on , then id tighten little then untighten the line and have it limp from the rod to the backlead . put bobbin on the deck so its not stretching any line . drop backs or kiting you will get the bobbin fling up any way cause your using running rigs . this is how i do it . i use black leadcore for silt too
 

catch

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just to keep it all low and damn swans so the line stays low to the bottom
 
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Baz,

Really depends on what you call 'distance'. Distance to me is 100 yds+. At tis, I wouldn't even try to slack line as the undertow would tighten it pu regardless of how much slack there is. Up to 30 yds, it can be very effective. Simply sink the line (I use 48 inch leadcore leaders at the business end to make 100% sure it is on the bottom), then just keep pulling off a couple of feet of line until it no longer comes off the tip ring (this can take up to ten minutes). Making sure not to tighten the rod, place it in the rests and then pull enough line from the reel to be able to put your bobbins on the floor.

Can make the difference on some waters, in that it can convert twitches into hittable runs, on other waters it can make no difference whatsoever. Just another option.
 
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Frothey

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<blockquote class=quoteheader>catch wrote (see)</blockquote><blockquote class=quote>just to keep it all low and damn swans so the line stays low to the bottom</blockquote>to me slack means SLACK! the line would be limp from the rod tip anyway.
 
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Baz (Angel of the North)

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Paraman.

I was looking at approx 70 yds for distance. What you say about the undertow makes sence. As you say, 30 yds or so sounds more manageable and controlable.

Catch.

Thanks mate it all helps. It looks like I have got some experimenting to do. But at least I now have more of an idea of how to go about it.
 

Ian Gemson

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You can have your bobbins on the floor if you want as the less weight on the line the slacker the line will potentially be. It is alway a good idea to try if possible to watch the line as it enters the water. ( in some weather condtion this is not possible) The line twitching or moving unnaturally may be a fish mouhting you bait or rubbing againts the line. These indications can be very subtle but are well worth haveing a strike at as you never know.

Back leading is another way of trying to pin the main line down and out of the way of fish. If the bottom of the lake is undulating or has large clumps of weed then back leads can struggle to work properly. Also be aware that the back leads need to weight more than the bobbin as a light back lead will lift first before a heavy bobbin thus dramatically reducing the bite indication. Obviously if you get a screaming take them everything goes tight and the bite is blatently obviuos. However if teh carp are finicky and aresiting still once the feel the hook in their mouth then thats when the optimised bobbinlalarm/lead set up scores.

Tight Lines mate
 
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