Centrepin question

Bluenose

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I realise this is a 'how long is a piece of string' type question and that flow and float size have a huge bearing (bearing, get it?) but how freely should the drum move on my pin?

I've got a Youngs Purist II, I bought it (when flush) about 5 years ago but to be honest I have hardly used it in that time, maybe 10 times. I had a dabble using it on my local river this week, the flow wasn't great on the inside line that I fished and I found myself having to roll the drum with my thumb to allow line out is this normal? (I used a 2bb stick in probably 5/6ft of water).

On rivers that move slowly is this often the case and is it that they are better for faster flows and heavier float set ups?

Cheers in advance.
 

peter crabtree

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In my opinion you are fishing too light a float. 3bb 4bb will pull line off easier even in low flow,and bulking your shot also helps. I dont know what line you use,but the lowest diameter you can get away with helps also.
 

Bluenose

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Cheers Peter, as I was roach fishing I didn't want to go to big on the float size, are you suggesting that even for roach I should fish a fair bit heavier?
 

davebike

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You say you have had the reel for a few years but it not had much use, have you oiled it ?
Lubrication is rather important ! A few drops of light oil on the bearings makes a huge difference and oils do deteriorate with time !

I also find ensuring the rod is very clean and polished with a silicone polish, Mr sheen will do, and I find this helps a lot
 

The bad one

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I realise this is a 'how long is a piece of string' type question and that flow and float size have a huge bearing (bearing, get it?) but how freely should the drum move on my pin?

I've got a Youngs Purist II, I bought it (when flush) about 5 years ago but to be honest I have hardly used it in that time, maybe 10 times. I had a dabble using it on my local river this week, the flow wasn't great on the inside line that I fished and I found myself having to roll the drum with my thumb to allow line out is this normal? (I used a 2bb stick in probably 5/6ft of water).

On rivers that move slowly is this often the case and is it that they are better for faster flows and heavier float set ups?

Cheers in advance.

Spry it up on the spindle evrey time before you use it with WD40 EC would be my advice. Work with my Russia Pin mate!
 

peter crabtree

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Yes, but shot it down as far as you can to create less resistance. Sometimes I use a body up pole float and shot it down virtually so it sinks on slack line and hold it back,only the bristle should be visible,and roach usually bite if you hold back anyway..

---------- Post added at 11:02 ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 ----------

WD 40 is not good for polished spindles such as youngs,simply polish the spindle.
 

Bluenose

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Those spindles in the middle, they're set at the loosest setting Fred.
 

geoffmaynard

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Do NOT use WD40! A light clock-oil is the stuff.

But it's not essential to have a totally free running reel - it can actually be too free running if you are like me and like to use it for casting direct from the reel, aka the Wallis cast. My old Speedia is nowhere near as free running as it could be but the slight friction which slows it helps it from overrunning when casting.
I too feed line from the spool if the flow isn't powerful enough to pull line from it - what else are you going to do?
 

Mark Hewitt

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I'll go with Peter then, and suggest a 'heavier' float. You can still achieve delicate presentaion, if its shotted correctly. Should give you alot more control.
 

Bluenose

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Thanks for the replies lads. The control was/is spot on, rolling the drum slightly with my thumb allowed me to inch it through, but you all know that anyway. I just felt/wondered if it could be rotating a little bit easier?

Previously I'd only really used the reel on the much faster R. Dane with a traditional chubber type float, big baits and bulked shot, as such had never experienced any issues.
 

tigger

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EC, I use singer sewing machine oil on my pins m8 and if you have the instructions with your Purist then it will reccomend it also. The oil is only pennies at a sewing shop. You might find holding your rod tip high keeping your line off the water and angled towards the float will help the reel rotate on it's own on a river with low flow.
 

chavender

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I wouldn't be seen dead in a sewing shop..............:eek:
me either thank goodness for e-bay

but being a youngs purist and that hasn't been used much i'd be inclined to recommend you sit twirling it back & forth too loosen up the lube in the bearings and / or gently warming its spindle housing with a hairdryer

WD40 is a big No No ,its evil it disolves the lube in bearings by breaking it down (after all thats what its designed too do ,its a degreaser & releasing agent NOT lubrication ,it also leaves a dryish film when its solvents has evaperated .wd40=bad

sowing machine oil ,hair clipper oil (wahl) timepiece / watchmakers oil or if your reel is too fast & loose and you need to slow it down a bit good old multigrade motor oil is best .
 

tigger

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if your reel is too fast & loose and you need to slow it down a bit good old multigrade motor oil is best .

I wouldn't of thought that was possible. If I need to slow down my cp drum then I just use my thumb. Also on the youngs range amongst others you have a micro drag. As I said it can't be to fast/free running not in my opinion anyhow the free'er running it is the better.
 

The bad one

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but being a youngs purist and that hasn't been used much i'd be inclined to recommend you sit twirling it back & forth too loosen up the lube in the bearings and / or gently warming its spindle housing with a hairdryer



sowing machine oil ,hair clipper oil (wahl) timepiece / watchmakers oil or if your reel is too fast & loose and you need to slow it down a bit good old multigrade motor oil is best .

Disagree that it's a degreaser and so does the Data Sheet. Yes it's petroleum based and will thin out the grease as will any light oil.
 
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