The Sliding D-Rig

Simple questions I know, but how do you attach your boilie to the Ring ? A band ?

And would you use this for pop ups ? or Just Bottom baits ?

I have attached boilies two different ways, one is to use dental floss (treat this like a hair) and tie the boilie on, or use a bait band, but use the band as a hair i.e. attach the band to the ring by passing it through then pull it back through it's self, then just use it like a hair. The good thing about this is you can use any size of boilie because the band is rubber.
Bottom baits and pop ups both work, snowman baits also work ok.

Rik,
what's step 5 ? cos its missing.

Birds Nest, the rigs are in main, designed for a bait band. Rik showed me these some time ago and I swear by them. (Even though I hate blowing smoke up that fat gits arse!). I use them for both bottom baits and pop-ups.

This rig has resulted good fish via double bolies on a pop-up. I tend to use Flouro Carbon as a stiff rig broken up by a swivel ring.

One bit of advice, get yourself a rig wallet and tye them up in advance, as you won't be wanting to tye up these puppies on the bankside at night. Talking from experience there mate!

Clive,
It's been corrected.

BN,
I now always use a bait band and pierce the baits.
In olden times when pop-ups were reasonably new, they would ingest water if pierced and then I would tie them on.
Nowadays, pop-ups are made to float for 48 hours even if pierced, so the hassle of tieing on is no longer necessary.

Birds Nest, excuse me butting in again.
Rik, would the 'D-rig' work the same if the whole set-up was floating on the surface? I'm thinking here in terms of floating weight to brace the 'stiff' line against and the fact that the main line would be slack.
I rarely fish this way myself and dont fully appreciate how these types of rigs perfom, but I was impressed by the clever way that the relative order of hook, ring, and bait is reversed to take advantage of the fish's habits.
I'd be very interested in your thoughts on this, for reasons that might be obvious to you. Lol.
Clive.

The mechanics of the rig only work with a stiff hooklink.
The bait and hook are sucked in, the fish then blows the bait back out, but it travels on the ring along the D and the hook should drop into the bottom lip.
This only works with stiff materials because with a soft hooklink, the whole rig would collapse when the fish blew the bait back out.

I'm not sure if this would work on the surface, but it is how I attach my baits when fishing the zig rig, which I fish almost to the surface, so I don't see any reason why not.

rik being new to big carp fishing
iam not quite upto speed with this rig
making what do you suggest to make
the sliding d rig would snakeskin
be ok.

Snakeskin would probably work, but I don't think it's the best material for the job.

I think you would catch, in spite of, not because of, the rig.

If you believe that the rig would benefit you and increaase your catch rate, then I would suggest that a stiff flourocarbon (or Amnesia) would be the most suitable product.

Rik, you intrigue me with the "only work with stiff rigs" comment.

I have seen this rig used as far back as the late 80's when braid was all the fashion. it caught well, but I alsways felt that the actual "mechanics" of the rig would never ever work in the way the "users" claimed it would.


Also, what do you think about the claim that the hook point will catch when the bait is blown back. I personally cant see this happening at all. the way a fish blows out an object causes all sorts of turbulence. The bait would never come out, all nicely lined up, with the hook point penetrating a lip.

I am becomming more and more convienced that we give Mr. Carp far too much credit. Take Waveney Vally for example. I was knocking out plenty of carp on float fished boillies in the margins, freelined floaters and simple running rigs with a "traditional" hair rig. I had ..in 3 days, 11 fish over 20 pounds, and loads of doubles. On the lake I was on, I only saw one other fish landed. Not one angler believed that i was using trout pellet boillies and simple rigs. they thought I was on some new wonder bait or rig. the more waters I fish with simple rigs, the more I catch. I get very disheartened when I see young lads using the latest super duper rig to catch small carp in there local pond....but I guess thats another thread.

Several points Rob.

I said that with other materials it will work, in spite of, and that's the important bit.
Supple materials will collapse under the pressure of the expulsion, whereas a stiff material will have more chance of catching hold, either by dropping into the bottom lip or by moving randomly due to, as you say "all sorts of turbulence"
There's no doubt that this rig constructed with braid will work, because not all carp feed in the same way, some will grab and move, others will suck and blow.

Is this a latest super duper rig then?
No, it's at least 15 years old, so it's a simple, old fashioned one.

"I get very disheartened when I see young lads using the latest super duper rig to catch small carp in there local pond"

Should we stifle newcomers and stop them from seeing anything other than a standard mono hair rig, or is that too modern and they should only be allowed to catch on bread flake, potatoes or worms?

BTW, good to see you back on here giving me aggro again.

I have to agree with Rik's point. It is good to see Rob back on here giving Rik agro again!

thanks rik I will try the amnesia
I just thought I would try the d ring
because it is something different at the lake I fish thanks again

Rik'
my thanks also. I will be looking very closely at this smart rig. 15 yrs old or not, it's still a new idea to me.
Clive.

Noooooooooooo..why do you think I am giving Rik agro? All I am saying is that in this day and age of "instant" everything, anglers are using rigs that are far too complicated for the fish they are fishing for.

Pike angling is going through a revelution just now, and rigs are being "invented" for the sake of it. I think carpers have been doing this for years.

As for simple rigs for new comers..well...better than showing them a bent hook rig and letting them get on with it...which is basically what happened before

Anyway Rik, someone has got to contradict you...you are too much like a Guru that no one will say a word against you ...heheheheeh

I've used this rig for a few years now, - the main reason is apart from being a very efficient method of hooking is that when using pop ups which i tend to most of the time i never seem to hook fish in the scissors anymore which often resulted in a slight amout of damage, they are always hooked in the bottom lip, slightly either side of centre. There is a way of hinging this rig by using snake bite or skin if you wish, it took me a while to figure this one out last year, but it works brilliantly as follows - Firstly you can't go too small with hooks as you need to pass fairly thick material trough the eye 3 times, reducing the thickness of the loop material won't help as it needs to stay as stiff as poss.
Take your snake bite and strip an amount of
material off (this depends on how many winds you use for the knot and the amount of
hinge material you want below the eye, you actually only need a tiny amount to give the hinge effect, only with practice will know exactly how much you need to strip off)
take a lenghth of mono (at least 15lb) and burn a ball on one end,pass the inner braid thro' the eye, then pass the mono thro' leave the ball hanging below the eye at least an inch holding the mono tight along the top of the shank - this is the fiddley bit - knotless knot the braid as you would,
but you should only have the minimum amount
1-2mm is sufficient showing below the eye
before the stiff section starts , this is why you leave the ball end hanging or it would prevent the snake bite passing back thro' the eye, pull the knot tight you now have a knotless knotted hook with a length of mono sticking out towards the bend, thread your sliding ring down the mono and then pass the loose end of mono back thro' the eye, by now this can be a bit of a squeeze but works OK on Carp 'r' us or penetrators down to size 6, now pull the bottom of the bend sticking out of the winds of the knot on the shank until the ball is only 1-2mm from the bottom of the eye, then pass the other end of the mono back thro' the top of the eye, now this bit really is a bit fiddley! pull the end of the mono until the loop is TIGHT to the shank trim off exess to give you about 15 - 20 mm of line protruding out of the bottom off the eye then CAREFULLY burn ,and let the ball shrivell back until about 3mm from the eye, THEN BLOW ON IT QUICK!! pull on the loop which is tight to the shank untill both balls are tight to the eye , giving you the 'D' loop on the back of the shank,
you now have a stiff 'D' Rig with the advantage of a supple hinge at the hook, which aids the hook falling to the bottom off the mouth of the fish, this i've found is very effective when using a counterbalanced pop up, on a 'take' the stiff section will fall vertically upon ejection whilst the pop up rises in the fishes mouth the 'D' will allow the hook to fall helped by the hinge. I can already hear you all saying 'What a pallava' but after a few practices you'll find it dead easy honest, you'll find all your fish hooked in the centre of the lip, - now someone will come back and say they've hooked a fish up the nostril or somthing, anyway give it a go - let me know what you think.

I use this rig quite a lot - normally as a snakebite hinge rig for pop-ups, but I only strip a couple of mil for the hinge. Is there a huge difference between this and a blow back rig? I prefer blow-backs for bottom baits as theres less chance of weed etc fouling the "D", but its probably just a confidence thing(which is 95% of the battle?)

I know what u mean about confidence Dave, Im 100% confident in my last 8 inches (oo-er sir!), but its so easily rattled!. I use the rig detailed above in the diagram with flouro. I use esp Stiff riggers or T6's depending whether im popping up or on the bottom. I used to use snakebite and peel back for hinged pop-ups but lost confidence in the presentation and positioning from the bottom. I believe popping up directly from a link swivel looks and behaves far more naturally. Also, where I knotless knott the 'D' rig, I whip right up the hook and half way round the bend for pop-ups as I want my baits sitting presisely over the hook evenly. I feel I recieve better blow-backs and perfect hook holds every time.

In my humble (non-blanking at the moment) opinion!

Last 8 inches - blimey, your a big boy!!

Isn't the important bit the stiff bit between hinge and hook(Rik?). I've started using braid to esp stiff rigger(for the popped up bit) recently, as the lakes a bit crappy on the bottom, and i feel stiff links can sit straight up, or at an angle, sometimes(not on gravel though). people talk about straightening the hooklink, but what if the carp approaches from behind or to one side? stiff links will rotate in an arc, braids less so. the last inch or so is stiff(depending on pop up height)to give some chyance of something catching in the mouth(or so i'd like to think.......)