pike traces

I tried to knock up sopme traces this weekend using the same materials shown in the rigs link - however I found that the drennan wire would not go through the crimps I was using more than once.
This didn't happen with normal (uncoated wire) do I need to strip the wire coating or buy wider crimps??

I know what you mean, this multi-strand stuff has so many frayed edges it stops you from threading it through. That's why I mentioned that you need some really sharp cutters to get a neat end. Or try supergluing the end after cutting it. If that doesn't work then yes, you need a crimp with a larger bore.

Then you could try twisting the wire instead of crimping as some anglers prefer. I prefer crimping though.

Try glueing before you cut - never made a trace, but it works with bike cables

Tony,
I regularly check and change the trace wires as soon as the start to kink or twist. Because of that you will find that plastic coated wire is not neccessary and that normally 28lb Drennan trace wire will easily fit Drennan slim crimps. Another problem may be that your cutters are just not sharp enough, they should cut with hardly any effort with a satisfying click.

Thanks for your response - i bought the drennan wire because it was nice and supple and seemed to kink less than normal wire - but because of the thickness it won't go through the crimps that were 7 - 28lb! is it possible just to buy larger crimps?

I use wire called 'elasticum' - it is stiff but can be bent. No need to use crimps at all as you can just put it through the eye of each treble and then around itself tightly. Snap a swivel on to the 1st treble and you are ready to go.

Why do you put a swivel on the first treble, surely it is treble - trace - treble - trace - swivel

Has (A)elasticum wire made a come back then, that does it, I'm off for the king Edwards?

Tony

I use the Drennan coated wire and it twists beautifully.

Form a loop in the end of the wire by bending it back on itself. Pass this loop through the eye of the treble or swivel. Pull the treble back through the loop and pull tight to form a clove hitch round the eye. Clip a pair of pike forceps on the tag end of the loop. Hold the main trace horizontal with the hook in one hand and the other end of the trace in the otherhand. The forceps are now hanging below the trace. Swing the forceps briskly round the trace about six or seven times to form a neat twisted finish.

Its a lot quicker and easier than it sounds.

Monk

I know he's caught a few good pike, but king?

I can remember twisting Alasticum using a door handle and a pencil. It made a half decent trace then.

I find that the best way to get a neat unravelled end to traces is to use a pair of (what are known as) half-cutters. The best ones have heavily case hardened cutting edges and are probably hard chromed as well. Radio Spares (RS) or Farnell electronic suppliers stock lots of varieties of these. I have a pair of CK half-cutters, which are designed to cut though 2mm piano wire, and these will even cut through tungsten wire, which is difficult to do, since it has a grain, and splinters easily.Also, these will easily cut through hooks on the bank, and from the flying treble in the net!, so you can get your catch back in the water quickly! Choose ones with an angle on each side of the cutting blade, then your multistranded wire will be cut in a neat V instead of being cut at right angles at one side, and angled on the other.... not good, this leads to unravelling. Buy the best you can afford, and make sure the jaws ARE really case hardened- you can tell this due to the amber-blue discolouration of the steel on the cutting edges - I paid about ?50 for mine. Also, make sure the wire is under a little tension maybe a 1kg weight- it cuts far more easily. Nevertheless, such cutting implements do leave a very sharp and murderous cut end- I fold these back into the crimp (use a pair of forceps to quickly and decisively bend the short end back) to ensure that I don't get razor cuts to my hands- these do not heal quickly, and with all the infectious things on the bank and fish, this isn't a trivial issue. You can also shield the cut ends with shrink tube, but this is quite laborious, and a bit over the top. I would also suggest, and I'm serious about this, that if you are using these very sharp cutters with metal, that you use some EYE PROTECTION (to British standards). Small shards of metal, which can be generated with these types of cutters can be devastating: I've seen the effects of metal fragments in the eye-horrible- its not worth the risk, so make all your traces at home, with due care. Hope this has been useful,Good luck... Simon

Forget the crimps - just attach both hooks like the top hook in the diags, but put eight or 10 turns of wire round it.

Twisting's rubbish - to attach the swivel, pass a loop through the eye, pass it back on itself, pull tight and just use a crimp to keep the loose end tidy.

Much better than all this passing wire three times through a crimp etc - asking for trouble.

Wire-wise forget the coated ones, try plain-old seven strand, like Drennan or Fox Easy Twist in the 30lb, or ET49 if you can get your hands on it.

Coated wires slip under pressure and that soft strand stuff is rubbish - the only wire I've ever had break on a fish.

It just shows that every angler has his own way of doing things. I've used crimps for years and never lost a fish. You won't go far wrong with either crimping or twisting or folding/crimping - providing you take care and do it right.

Stopping the wire fraying is helped if you anneal the wire where you want to cut. This is also a useful tip for the twisters among you.

Just heat the wire over a lighter flame until it glows. Let it cool, and it is much less springy.

If you still have some trouble with it unravelling, a smear of rig glue or epoxy binds it.

When twisting, the probelm is always to get the final turns into the tag end - either it won't wind round or it frays and leaves a snaggy, 'fluffy' bit. Anneal the tip before doing the final turns. For good measure, add a dab of epoxy or varnish.

jay,where do you get the alasticum from?
i`m down to my last spool of qed,and it`s not available any more.alasticum is very similar to it.

Cor' Blimey Mark, Four years old.
You took your time!

Good advice though.

I was always a bit slow off the mark....

Its always better to take your time and think about these problems ,just to make sure .lol