Method feeder, how do i avoid getting snapped on the hooklength?!

I am currently useing a method feeder when the weather is hot as i feel fishing on the top is the best area in hot conditions. Getting quite a few bites fairly quickly, so i'm happy with the success of the feeder by useing some crazy bait ground bait mixed in with corn and corn on the hook.
Problem is i'm not used to catchimg fish on the method feeder so i have various problems such as striking at the wrong time, snapped hooklength when i strike. I realise that the answers could be stronger line on hooklength or wait until the float is completely submerged, but i don't seem to be doing something right! ANY ADVICE BY ANYONE WOULD BE GOOD!

First of all Michael what b/s hook length are you using?

What size are the fish you are expecting to catch?

Can you also explain how you are using a float and method feeder and fishing on the top all at the same time.

method float....

...never heard of 'em, must nip into W.H. Smuts more often and read the comics.

i've found them floating around after people use too weak a mainline! basically a BIG float with a cage on the bottom to mould groundbait on. gets the fish moving up the layers....

Crikey I was well confuddled too till you stepped in Dave.

I was lucky stu, I knew what this guy was on about, as I saw a young lad using one without success at my local pond 2 days ago.
If I hadnt seen that, I would have been as confuddled as U!

Michael,
Firstly for match sized carp don't go lower than 8lb main line and 6lb hooklength, for specimen fish then step up the B/S of both lines.

Secondly, when using the method (float or feeder), don't strike at all. When you get a run the fish has already hooked itself against the weight of the feeder and groundbait, all you need to do is lift the rod and lean into the fish to set the hook and excert pressure, then play the fish as normal.

Thirdly, how are you attaching the float to the line. It's not a good idea to use the old fashioned way of tying it on in a loop as this will leave the fish towing a very buoyant float which keeps tension on the hook and the fish can't get rid of it, it's better to slide some rubber leger stops on the line the the float and then a couple of rubber beads and tie on a swivel with the hooklength at the other side. This will give something (rubber leger stops) for the fish to set the hook against, like a semi fixed bolt rig but it's safe if the line should break as it can slide off under a little pressure. It also means you can adjust the deapth you have the hook from the float by sliding the stops up of down, so you can set the hook on, just under or up to a foot under the feeder if the fish drop down a bit from the splash of it landing.

If it's not a baggin' waggler your using and you are feeder fishing on the bottom, don't use any float at all.

Rodders, the veritable fount of useful information..........................

One does ones best, kind sir, I thank you, I'll be here all week )

cheers 4 that rod! useful info that. At the moment i've got a 5lb main line with 3lb hooklength, thing is i reckon that isn't enough as the biggest fish on the water i'm fishing is 15lb. Probably lucky to catch over 10lb, but i'd be pissed off if i under prepared and got snapped by the biggest fish! So should i go for stronger line, maybe 8-9lb main line and 5-6 hooklength?

Definetly step up your line Michael, and use a size 10 or 12 hook with line of this B/S, a 14 at the very smallest as most smaller hooks are to thin and lightly to straiten or pull out on you as you play the fish. The 3lb line is much too light and explains why you've been snapped up on the strike. I would go for 8lb main and 6lb hooklength.

Tight lines.

Fish braid on the reel & allow the method float to slide on a length of power gum to act as a shocker